Goodbye Summer

Most of the staff at April Point are younger than the chef, yet they calmly executed and served a seven-course meal with a pace and panache that the folks at West Restaurant would admire.

Attendees were treated to a far-from-average wine-and-cheese reception that featured numerous high-quality cheeses chosen and presented by Alison Spurrell, co-proprietor of the Vancouver-based and highly acclaimed cheese shop Les Amis du Fromage; and wines selected by myself.

Back in Vancouver, Sonoma winemaker and international consultant Paul Hobbs was in town to host a fundraiser for the British Columbia Paraplegic Association. One wonders if any local charity could survive without the generosity of local wine distributors who work in the most challenging, over-regulated liquor market in North America.

Despite facing 123-per-cent mark-ups topped off by another 12 per cent HST, Hobbs still donates his time, and wine, to help those in need. While Hobbs was in Vancouver, he previewed his latest release from his Argentina winery: a very impressive Cobos Felino Chardonnay 2009 now under screw cap. Start looking for this delicious chardonnay in government stores later month.

From Vancouver we headed to the Okanagan to attend the official opening of Haywire Winery, the brainchild of North Vancouver-based Chris Coletta and her husband Steve Lornie.

The long-time consultant and public relations specialist to the wine industry and former head of the British Columbia Wine Institute officially launched their single-vineyard, single variety wine, a 2009 Pinot Gris from their Switchback Vineyard located in Summerland.

It is a much bigger story than just the wine and in the coming weeks I will report back on one of the newest and brightest projects in the Okanagan.

As you read this, I will be driving back to Vancouver in time for the last weekend of summer. Today we offer some great new picks from recent tastings to help you say goodbye to summer.

Prosecco is growing in popularity in Canada. One of the most authentic is Santa Margherita Brut Prosecco di Valdobbiadene N/V. Look for a pear, green apple and quince-scented nose with a fresh, off-dry palate and mineral, citrus, earthy, peach pit, pear and nutty flavours. A fun, fresh style you serve before dinner or with a light seafood course.

Green apple, gooseberry, passion fruit and smoky jalapeno aromas announce the Wither Hills Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009. Expect a crisp, juicy palate with good finesse and a touch of sweetness. Grapefruit, lemon nettle, passion fruit, jalapeno, gooseberry and Granny Smith apple are all part of this juicy, slightly herbaceous sauvignon with big intensity. Wither Hills is blended from 15 individual vineyard sites in Wairau Valley in New Zealand.

Red wine drinkers looking for a friendly dinner red should check out the Delas Saint Esprit Cotes du Rhone 2008 from the Rhone Valley. Dry, round, supple and elegant, you will love its plum, black cherry, spicy, licorice, dark chocolate, peppery flavours and fine acidity. Good finesse and length but it needs a year to soften or try with lamb. We like the value, too.

Another value-plus fall red is the Cobos Felino Malbec 2008 from Mendoza, Argentina. The wine over-delivers for $20, offering a round, suave and supple palate with plum jam, black cherry, tobacco and savoury licorice and roasted mushroom flavours. This is an elegant, ready-to-drink style with light tannins. Good value.

Two dessert wines wrap up this week's picks. Treat yourself to the Quails' Gate Late Harvest Totally Botrytis Affected Optima 2008 with its big, inviting, honey, orange rind, floral, lime, apricot and lanolin nose. Often, late-harvest wines can be more complex than icewine with more layers of flavours. That is the case with this wine awash in lychee fruit, baked apple, honey, orange rind and sweet apricot flavours. A delicious, juicy style with lots of fruit. Drink while it is young and fresh. Try it with fresh peaches.

Finally, crack open a bottle of Quinta do Crasto Late Bottled Vintage Port 2005 and keep it nearby for the cool nights of fall. LBV port will keep for days, if not weeks, in the bottle, allowing you to savour its attractive spicy, savoury, floral nose flecked with dried cherries, plum jam and licorice notes. Complex, ripe, rich, elegant, slightly tannic palate, it is awash in chocolate, dried figs, cherry, mint and licorice root flavours. Despite its normal 20-per-cent alcohol, Crasto manages to display significant finesse in the mouth. A perfect end-of-the-day sipper.

Santa Margherita Brut Prosecco di Valdobbiadene N/V, Veneto, Italy

Price: $21

UPC: 00632987111396

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Fun, fresh, citrus, earthy, peach pit, pear and nutty flavours.

Wither Hills Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand

Price: $19

UPC: 9418165002608

Score: 89/100

Remarks: A blend of 15 individual vineyard sites in the Wairau Valley.

Delas Saint Esprit Cotes du Rhone 2008, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $18

UPC: 00123215729938

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Plum, black cherry, licorice and dark chocolate flavours.

Cobos Felino Malbec 2008, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $20

UPC: 897941000974

Score: 88/100

Remarks: An elegant, ready to drink style red with light tannins. Good value.

Quails' Gate Late Harvest Totally Botrytis Affected Optima 2008, Okanagan Valley

Price: $30

UPC: 778856308099

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Bright, juicy style with lots of fruit. Drink this while it is young.

Quinta do Crasto Late Bottled Vintage Port 2005, Douro Valley, Portugal

Price: $27

UPC: 5604123002009

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Complex, ripe, rich, elegant red you can drink now.