Goodbye 2005

Today we look back at a number of developments that took place in 2005, which will undoubtedly affect what you drink in 2006.

Traditionalists are still kicking and screaming over the use of screw-cap closures versus corks, but the debate over whether it's a better method of closing a bottle is pretty much over.

Not only is it clear that screw caps will do the job for decades without failure, but after tasting so many fault-free wines under screw cap, it is becoming obvious to this taster that even the finest corks lend a natural flavour profile to wines that is not very flattering.

Speaking of tradition, the reticence of France to move quickly in any direction when it comes to wine explains its pitiful performance in B.C. At just over four per cent of the market, 2005 must surely mark a low point for French wine in B.C. -- one of North America's savviest wine markets.

While the French cheered the hard-hitting, anti-globalization documentary Mondovino, farmers in the south were demonstrating in the streets lamenting lack of sales. In Bordeaux, property prices are reported to be at an all-time low as the famed region fights to retain its position among the world's prestigious producers of wine.

The DVD release of another movie, Sideways, produced a huge rush on pinot noir sales in North America, but it was the movie's focus on the wine that had wineries drooling.

Sideways was not a megahit in theatres, but its impact on pinot noir sales reinforced the industry's belief that they should spend less time and money on specialist advertising in wine magazines and place more emphasis on lifestyle programs and prime-time television where the real consumers are.

Speaking of consumers, the overwhelming success of Yellow Tail, the runaway Oz hit, has spawned an unimaginable number of, well, unimaginable, so-called critter labels that are slowly killing interest in low-end varietal wines.

Australia's shelf dominance has put it in the same position as the French in the 1960s and 1970s, and for some reason they have chosen to repeat history by bottling just about anything red or white thinking it will sell because it is Australian -- it is a disaster in the making.

Spain moved back into the limelight in 2005 offering fresh savoury wines with strange sounding names, and it would appear anything but a chardonnay, cabernet, merlot or sauvignon is winning favour with a large segment of drinkers.

Closer to home B.C. VQA wine hit an all-time high in sales. The only thing growing faster than the B.C. wine market is the price of local wine. To say the domestic stuff is overpriced is an understatement, but for some reason unknown to this writer, locals and tourist alike continue to fork out serious dollars to buy it.

Do not confuse the aforementioned statement with our top wines, many of which you could argue are under-valued, it is just there are too few of them. CedarCreek is a good example of our best having won a heap of significant medals in 2005 that culminated in the Kelowna winery winning its second Canadian Winery of the Year trophy as judged by Wine Access magazine.

Shiraz as a grape varietal remained popular, despite some dismal low-end examples, again mostly from Oz, but its significance should wane in 2006 as mourvedre, grenache, malbec and pinot noir fight for more elbowroom.

Riesling continues to lead a renewed interest in fresh, clean, flavourful tasty white wines. Could a chardonnay rebirth be far behind?

If indeed the new red is white, the new fun wine is rose. The transitional tipple, with its salmon-coloured hue, made the hyper-jump to prime time in 2005 only to be foiled by a Vancouver dock strike that left the latest crop trapped in containers instead of on city patios where they will most assuredly resurface in 2006.

As we sweep into the New Year, we take a final look at just a few of the wines that made 2005 a memorable year for West Coast wine drinkers.

Our January columns featured several budget wines none more reliable than the labels of Daniel Castano from Yecla Spain. The Castano Hecula 2004 delivers gobs of value at a price that barely gets you a bottle of VQA wine.

March saw South Africa invade the local wine festival, and the playful Goat Rotie from Fairview wines proved the Afrikaners not only get the New World but the understand the Old World as well.

Saintsbury's Garnet Pinot Noir never looked so good in light of the May DVD release of the movie Sideways and while Miles and friends never left the south central coast of California the movie's reach spiked all of North American pinot sales.

The July release of Sandhill Small Lots Syrah confirmed Okanagan winemaker Howard Soon's Midas touch. The silky, spicy, wild red went on to win the Red of the Year moniker at the Canadian Wine Awards but alas, you will only find it in restaurants.

In September, the arrival of Burgans Albarino shouted out Spain's continued growth as an innovative wine producer. At just under $20, this is a versatile white with a big future.

In December, the appearance of Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut in local beer and wine stores, as opposed to government stores, leaves us with some hope that owners of these valuable licenses may begin paying attention to the wine part of their mandate in 2006.

New week we will peer into the future of wine in 2006.

Looking Back

CASTANO HECULA 2003, YECLA, VALENCIA AND MURCIA, SPAIN
Price: $15.95
UPC: 8422443001802
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Plum jam, boysenberry, chocolate and tobacco flavours.

GOAT - ROTI 2003, WESTERN CAPE, SOUTH AFRICA
Price: $23.99
UPC: 6002291000794
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Spicy, blackberry, licorice, orange peel, blackberry jam flavours.

SAINTSBURY GARNET CARNEROS PINOT NOIR 2003, CARNEROS, CALIFORNIA
Price: $31.95
UPC: 732458950674
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Well-balanced, elegant style with some juicy berry notes.

SANDHILL SMALL LOTS SYRAH, PHANTOM CREEK VINEYARD 2003, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Price: $29.99
UPC: 058976320615
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Peppery, pudding, black cherry and anise flavours.

BURGANS ALBARINO 2004, RIAS BAIXAS, GALICIA, SPAIN
Price: $19.95
UPC: 08414825336718
Score: 89/100
Remarks: This is refreshing albarino. Intense, and flavoursome with a big citrus finish

ROEDERER ESTATE BRUT, ANDERSON VALLEY, MENDOCINO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
Price: $34.95 (Private Wine Shops)
UPC: 097546102008
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Fine elegance with creamy mousse textures, but quite lean. Think oysters.