Global Pinot Noir Quality On The Rise

As growers in as disparate regions as Carneros, California, Marlborough, New Zealand and closer to home in the Okanagan begin to hone in on their best sites and employ the latest in technology, the global quality of pinot noir is rising faster than anyone could have predicted.

Last week I stood in a sea of pinot noir vines at Robert Mondavi's vineyards in Carneros, California, some 70 miles north of San Francisco. In Carneros, Mondavi's vineyard team is working with a plethora of variables: Several clones of the pinot noir species, a mix of soil types, different trellising, different expositions to the sun, myriad irrigation schemes and much more -- all of which "especially" affects the quality of pinot noir in the bottle.

Amazingly, Mondavi has worked with NASA scientists to have its vineyards photographed from space and by correlating decades of data to the various colours of the infra-red photos they now have a much better understanding of why some parts of the vineyard behave in a manner that is completely different from others.

Despite all the high-tech analysis, final picking decisions are still made by winemakers and vineyard managers walking the vineyard and tasting grapes.

The difference today is the vineyard managers are using global positioning devices (GPS) to mark the blocks and indeed the exact rows that will be picked. This type of accuracy is a huge advantage when it comes to making quality pinot noir and best of all its technology that leave the finicky pinot grape untouched.

You see, pinot noir doesn't like a lot of handling and what handling it gets needs to be gentle; thus improving the flavours and the ripeness of the tannins on the vine versus in the winery can only lead to better wine.

Today I want share with you some tasty pinot noir that has crossed my path this month and that I think you will enjoy. Not all the wines were tasted against each other.

One of the best California pinots in B.C. at the moment is the Cuvaison 2000 Pinot Noir. Look for an approachable spicy black cherry and strawberry jam nose with a smoky oak streak in the background. There's fine intensity here with black cherries and spicy, compost flavours. The finish is long and powerful (high alcohol). This is super pinot at a reasonable price.

The Robert Mondavi Coastal 2000 Pinot Noir Private Selection is a delicious pinot. It doesn't have the extract and weight of the Cuvaison but, as we say in the business, this is a pretty pinot. The bulk of the fruit comes from Monterey with 25 per cent coming out of Santa Barbara. Smoke, cedar, cherries and spice all combine to make this a very drinkable and highly affordable cool climate pinot.

Locally, I recommend you check out the Quails' Gate 2000 Pinot Noir Family Reserve. It's not as elegant as the Mondavi Coastal or as ripe as the Cuvaison but there is plenty of cherry strawberry fruit streaked with smoky oak flavours. It's young and a little astringent for the moment but a year or two in the bottle should help smooth out the rough edges.

From almost directly across the lake comes the more refined CedarCreek 2000 Platinum Pinot Noir. Smoky toasted oak dominates the nose with a spicy barnyard background. Look for ripe, cherry jam fruit on entry with a peppery clove mid-palate and long warm smooth cherry/vanilla finish. It's elegant in style and likely one of the best young pinots in the valley. Unfortunately, it's only available in restaurants.

Crushed pepper, earth, compost and leafy overtones mark the nose of the Shingle Peak 2001 Pinot Noir. Firm and round, it's showing fine elegance with Burgundian styling that reminds me of Volnay. The fruit is rich and round in the mouth with an intriguing smoky/cherry finish. It offers excellent value when compared to run-of-the-mill Burgundy.

It's unusual to find good pinot from Australia but the Wolf Blass 2000 Pinot Noir measures up. Look for a toasted oak nose streaked with vanilla, cedar and spice. It's soft, round and totally drinkable now. Cherry, prune, and spicy vanilla flavours precede its smoky, leather and pepper notes in the finish. A well-made pinot for current consumption.

PINOT NOIR

Producer: Cuvaison 2000 Napa Carneros, California

Price: $39.90

Stock No.: 622993

Score: 17.5/20

Comments: Fabulous style, weight and fruit.

Producer: Robert Mondavi Coastal 2000 Private Selection, California

Price: $21.95

Stock No.: 465435

Score: 15.5/20

Comments: Vivid Coastal fruit.

Producer: Quails' Gate 2000 Family Reserve, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

Price: $29.99

Stock No.: 560052

Score: 14/20

Comments: Chunky full-bodied pinot.

Producer: CedarCreek 2000 Okanagan Valley, B.C.

Price: $34.99

Stock No.: 712190

Score: 15/20

Comments: Available only in restaurants.

Producer: Matua Valley Shingle Peak 2001, Marlborough, New Zealand

Price: $19.95

Stock No.: 554824

Score: 15.5/20

Comments: Soft juicy pinot fruit.

Producer: Wolf Blass 2000 Purple Label Yarra Valley, Australia

Price: $18.95

Stock No.: 611509

Score: 14.5/20

Comments: Round silky ready to drink.