Global Cabernets Soften Up

It had an appealing dark colour that few other reds possessed. It was weighty and powerful in the mouth, and it was loaded with dry, hard tannins -- the type that leave your mouth feeling as if you just pulled a fluffy towel out of it. Back then, the theory was the tannins would fade over the years, revealing the fruit and harmony of this noble grape. While it may have been true for the best cabernets of Bordeaux and California (in the best vintages), most other examples simply got drier and harder as they aged. For consumers hell-bent on drinking big reds, ingesting hard tannins became a rite of passage. How times have changed. Softer, rounder cabernets with supple tannins that are capable of supporting the wine's structure, but that still melt in your mouth, are now the goal. In fact, any red wine burdened with green, unripe tannins (often referred to as hard tannins) is considered to be in poor form. So if you've been avoiding cabernet sauvignon because of its big, dry, mouth-filling tannins, you may want to give it another chance. Given what wine growers know about tannin management and extraction today, many cabernets have become much less aggressive in the bottle, while still maintaining a structure and style firmer than any merlot, zinfandel or shiraz. This week we compare cabernets under $14 from Chile and California. Chile more or less owns the category now, mostly because the Americans have all but abandoned value-for-money wines. Today's results are proof that the trend continues. The Celebrado, a Central Valley cab from Gracia de Chile, has a dark colour and intense varietal/cassis fruit sprinkled with hints of pepper and mint. The tannins are a bit chewy, but not tough. Buy and hold for another six months, or serve with a big, juicy steak. This one's good value from a superior vintage. Mondavi makes the '98 Woodbridge, but it's just as well the Mondavi name is not too prominent on the label. A very difficult growing year is reflected in this medium-dark cab with peppery, compost, pruny, cooked-cabernet aromas. On the palate, it is soft and simple, with pruny, raisin flavours. Low on charm and varietal character. Back to Chile for another '99, this time from Carmen. The colour is black; the nose a mix of dry earth, cooked cassis and cracked pepper. Similar flavours finish a bit dry -- as if they'd added juice pressed from the lees of the fermentation tanks. The wine would be helped by serving it with any grilled food. The nose of Corbett Canyon's '99 is marked by baked prunes and raisins, with light berry aromas. Surprisingly, this young wine smells as if it is on the edge of being oxidized, and follows up with tired, cooked-fruit flavours. Again, slightly bitter (press wine) flavours mar the finish. The square bottle maybe easy to store, but who wants to store it? One of the best buys under $13 in all B.C. must be the 1999 Valdivieso Cabernet Sauvignon. Always good value, this cab gets an extra hit from the fine '99 vintage. Grapes from the Maipo, Cachapoal and Colchagua vineyards are blended into a delightful wine with peppery, cassis aromas and flavours, and just the right touch of vanilla. It has fine concentration, all wrapped up in a soft, easy-sipping, fruity demeanour. Delicious now, but will keep. Buy this one by the case. Gallo's Turning Leaf cab from the '98 harvest was the best of today's three American contenders, but not by much. Look for dill, compost leaf and pepper aromas. On the palate, it is soft and rich in the mouth, with pruny, blackberry fruit and a touch of leather. The flavours are better than the nose; the finish is dry. Chile's Santa Carolina has been around for years, but has seldom distinguished itself. The '99 is a nice step up in quality, with minty, prune/cassis aroma and flavours, and a soft, round, easy-to-sip character. Despite its slightly dry finish, this edition represents good value at $10.45. CABERNET SAUVIGNON Producer: Gracia de Chile, Celebrado, Maipo Valley, Chile Price: $12.95 Stock No.: 551143 Score: 14/20 Comments: Rich, chewy; good value. Producer: Woodbridge 1998, California Price: $13.95 Stock No.: 48611 Score: 12/20 Comments: Soft, cooked, pruny fruit. Producer: Carmen 1999, Chile Price: $12.95 Stock No.: 415596 Score: 13.5/20 Comments: Chewy, dry. Producer: Corbett Canyon 1999, California Price: $10.95 Stock No.: 275990 Score: 12.5/20 Comments: Light, simple; drink now. Producer: Valdivieso 1999, Chile Price: $12.95 Stock No.: 412841 Score: 15.5/20 Comments: Buy by the case. Producer: Gallo 1998 Turning Leaf, California Price: $12.95 Stock No.: 412296 Score: 13.5/20 Comments: Soft, with dill, prune and pepper flavours. Producer: Santa Carolina 1999, Lontue Valley, Chile Price: $10.45 Stock No.: 535344 Score: 13.5/20 Comments: Solid, everyday red at a great price.