Giving Thanks For A Great Grape Harvest

So, why not go to nontraditional sources for some ideas on wines to serve with the feast? Our forebears prepared for the holiday by adding logs to the fire, but we can simply log on ...

The classic pairing with turkey is pinot noir, according to the Web site www.aboutwine.com "Typical pinot noir flavours include earth, leather, vanilla (from the oak) and jam ... the fruity flavours of the jam often taste like raspberry, strawberry and plum. This goes great with turkey and goose."

At www.travellady.com gewürztraminer is the turkey grape of choice. It's "an excellent match for foods with spicy Asian or Indian seasonings and 'gewurz' is also a natural with holiday turkey or turkey in any form."

Australian shiraz, Beaujolais, Chianti, Côtes du Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage, Rioja and zinfandel are considered turkey classics at another site: www.winethief.com

From Hillers markets in Metro Detroit there come some cautions. The site doesn't recommend merlot with Thanksgiving turkey, citing "an unpleasant lingering metallic taste from that combination." It also rejects chardonnay with turkey because "you risk putting the table to sleep."

Hillers thinks the best wines are those that are both fruity and somewhat tart: a light pinot noir or a zinfandel, if you'd prefer red wine and dark meat; or a riesling or gewürztraminer if you are a white-wine/white-meat fan.

The simple solution is to place both red and white wine on the table for the big day, and if you can read between the lines on your Web browser, it's the fruity wines that work better with turkey, as opposed to dry, tannic ones.

When you think about it, the most complementary dish on the table, and the one that best sets off turkey, is usually the fresh cranberry sauce. That's because the fruity-but-tart flavours of cranberry cut through the oily quality of turkey meat (not to mentioned grandma's favourite dressing and gravy) to refresh your palate.

Advice from cyberspace aside, today's Thanksgiving selections are based on both suitability and availability in B.C. government liquor stores. In some cases, I've provided extra picks (not pictured) that are similar in style and/or taste, to compensate for possible early sell-outs. Pinot noir fans should refer to last week's column for ideas.

The white wine of choice that should meet all the requirements is the Hugel 2000 Gentil from Alsace. An appealing, open, earthy/floral spice nose reflects its clever mix of gewürztraminer, pinot gris, riesling, muscat and sylvaner. Its yin-and-yang, sweet-and-sour finish is mouthwatering. Excellent value.

I recommend the Rosemount Estate 2002 Traminer Riesling for those who prefer a little residual sugar in their wine. It will work well as an aperitif or with the turkey, and will stand up to any spicy dishes. Mineral citrus and petrol aromas preview a soft, sweet, round, easy-sipping white that will have wide appeal with casual or ceremonial wine drinkers.

Other similar picks to consider are two from Germany: the Dr. L Riesling ($14.95; #599474) from the Mosel, and the Lingenfelder Bird Series Riesling ($14.94; #568634) from the Pfalz; or from B.C., the Sumac Ridge Gewürztraminer ($13.99; #142893)

The Jackson-Triggs 2000 Viognier from the south Okanagan surprises with its honey and citrus styling. It's more sweet than floral, with a touch of exotic orange flavours. (You may encounter either the 2000 or the 2001 in stores; they're similar.)

Other viogniers to look for include: Santa Julia, Argentina ($12.90; #612317); Yalumba Y Series, Australia ($17.95; #624502); Domaine la Bastide, south of France ($15.95; 574046); and from California's Mendocino County, Fetzer Bonterra Vineyards ($24.95, #573691).

The 1999 "La Crau de ma Mere" from Domaine du Père Pape might be B.C.'s best buy in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It needs a rough decanting to shake its reductive garlic, game and damp earthy nose, but after that, it sings. Its style is elegant, with spicy, lychee, meaty (syrah-like) fruit. It's full flavoured and well balanced despite its youth, with a fine smoky finish.

The Penfolds Thomas Hyland 2000 Shiraz is made from select parcels of fruit from Australia's McLaren Vale, Coonawarra and Barossa Valley that's blended in new and old French and American barrels. Look for bright, heady, mulberry and blueberry fruit flavours interlaced with the obligatory spicy oak, licorice and eucalyptus. Fruitcake, chocolate and savoury plums make this classic Oz red a surefire winner.

Other shiraz labels to look for include: Talus, California ($12.98; #605501) and Tatachilla Breakneck Creek, Australia ($14.95; #631820).

My final pick comes from Sicily. The Tasca d'Almerita 2000 Regaleali Rosso is a crowd-pleaser. Look for a generous, warm spicy, cherry, plum-jam nose streaked with licorice and pepper. Similar flavours finish soft and round. You'll love its supple, almost velvety edge. Best young and fresh.

Whatever you try, keep in mind that this weekend means giving thanks for the grape harvest, too.

Weekend Wine Tasting : TURKEY WINES

Producer: Hugel et Fils 2000 Gentil, Alsace, France

Price: $16.95

Stock No.: 367284

Score: 16.5/20

Comments: Spicy, fruity; classic match.

Producer: Rosemount Estate 2002 Traminer Riesling, Australia

Price: $12.95

Stock No.: 244301

Score: 14/20

Comments: Soft, sweet, spicy, fruity.

Producer: Jackson-Triggs 2000 Viognier, Okanagan Valley

Price: $14.95

Stock No.: 593129

Score: 14.5/20

Comments: Citrus and orange blossom.

Producer: La Crau de ma Mère 1999 Châteauneuf du Pape, Rhône Valley, France

Price: $39.95

Stock No.: 607481

Score: 17.5/20

Comments: Rich, full-bodied, great value.

Producer: Penfolds Thomas Hyland 2000 Shiraz, Australia

Price: $23.95

Stock No.: 611210

Score: 17/20

Comments: Blueberry fruitcake.

Producer: Tasca d'Almerita 2000 Regaleali Rosso, Sicily

Price: $19.95

Stock No.: 360966

Score: 16.5/20

Comments: Supple, round, soft; earthy/plummy fruit.