Gisborne 2007 - A Ripper

Many are touting it the best in perhaps 30 years, with a stunner of a harvest supplying optimum condition grapes with good sugars, flavours and no rot.

Gisborne Regional Winemaker for Montana, Steve Voysey, says all the small tanks in the winery are being used as winemakers keep special parcels of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Viognier, Arneis and Syrah  separate.

He describes the 2007 Gisborne vintage as the best in living memory.

"The coolish summer prevented premature ripening and allowed accumulation of flavours."

That was followed by the extended dry late summer that provided perfect ripening conditions, allowing picking to occur at optimum ripeness and flavour.

"The highlights are so numerous," he says.

Disease was a non-event thanks to such perfect conditions.

"There will be some stunning wines from 2007," says Steve. "I have never known a vintage where everything has delivered to this extent - from sparkling wines right through to the reds."

It was the finest he can remember in around 30 years.

His pick for "best of the best" is Gewurztraminer.

"This variety has really delivered this year. The wines are rich, spicy and intensely scented. Gewurztraminer is a joy to make when you have such sweet, clean and evenly ripe fruit. "

2007 has also broken the trend that even vintages are more consistent than the odd ones.

"I am certainly expecting to see many outstanding wines from this one. My hope is I don't have to wait another 20 years to see a vintage like this."

James Millton from The Millton Vineyard reiterates his thoughts, saying the harvest - their 23rd - is the best they have ever had.

Fine mild weather, warm days and coldish nights made planning and picking - by hand - quite easy to organise.

For Milltons it has been a very big harvest, not only because of the

good fruit set but as well newer plantings - like Viognier and Chenin - coming into fruit.

Their Chardonnay has produced full ripe fruit, with really good acidity and the potential of 13.5% alcohol. Early harvested fruit, for unoaked styles have "vibrancy and almost a nerve".

He is rating their Pinot Noir a standout.

"Good ripeness, firm texture and very typical and classic Pinot Noir character, and it is already a good drink at this young stage."

But it is also a Viognier year, with very ripe and appealing fruit.

More experience meant Milltons would be branching out with a more diverse style with their Viognier.

"And of course the Syrah is simply stunning - ripe, spicy and complex."

Villa Maria Estate's Gisborne vineyard manager and viticulturist Tony Green is also singing the praises of the 2007 harvest.

"Without exception the grapes were in optimum condition, with good sugars, flavours and absolutely no rot."

They harvested just over 1200 tonnes from Gisborne - a record.

"Our push to get greater tonnage of varieties such as Pinot Gris, Viognier and Gewurztraminer has paid off and we received some excellent parcels of these varieties from new growers."
That extra tonnage put pressure on processing facilities in Hawke's Bay, so Gisvin proved invaluable.

Villa Maria put just over 300 tonnes through Gisvin, and with more Pinot Gris coming on stream next year Green expects that tonnage to increase considerably.

HortVision's Trevor Atkins says the moderate weather meant peak rainfall rates were below 10mm an hour in most rain periods - compared to many years where peak rates were in excess of 30-50mm an hour.

Despite the small cold spell in late November and early December, temperatures held up well through the season, finishing with slightly warmer-than-usual February and March.