German Riesling UnPlugged

Okay, maybe it's not that strange since there are many wines made around the world that you cannot buy in Canadian wine stores. But Weingüt Tesch Riesling Unplugged is no ordinary wine, and owner Martin Tesch is no ordinary producer. I happened upon the much-talked-about Nahe, Germany-based winery last week after my judging duties at the Best of Riesling competition were complete in the nearby Pfalz region.

Tesch is so revolutionary and cutting-edge you won't find his wines anywhere in Canada, where our largest government retailers continue to confuse the free-trade retail policies of Walmart and Costco with its closed market, highly regulated (and taxed) monopoly system. The result is a shrinking selection of intelligent wines that require "selling and marketing" in favour of mass-produced plonk that often sells itself and usually at twice the real-world price in free markets.

Tesch is the antithesis of Germany's complicated grading and labelling system. His labels are simple colour-coded affairs, borrowed from the colours used to designate the various station lines that make up the London Tube. The wines are finished bone-dry or trocken, led by the most ingenious of them all, the "Unplugged" label. Could there be a better moniker than "unplugged" for a Riesling that sees no acidification, no new wood, no additives and that is finished completely dry? Tesch also produces five unique single vineyard wines grown on equally distinct soil sites at a vineyard just beyond his stunning tasting facility in Langenlonsheim.

In my wine world, where I'm often asked how one creates a quality wine with a story worth telling, the Tesch concept and operation gets a perfect 100 points. Look for the Tesch bottles in nearby Washington state or in key wine markets in California, Illinois, Texas, New York and Florida.

In the meantime, North Americans still tend to think of Germany as a sweet wine producer, but it's been well over a decade since Germans began fermenting and drinking most of their wines dry. They still make "fruity" or sweet wines but trocken is where it's at on the modern German dinner table. The good news is, the bone-dry Riesling trend is finally seeping into the international market, so perhaps one day Tesch will arrive here as well.

Today, I have tasted through a number of Rieslings now listed in B.C., and have chosen six deliciously dry yet fruity examples to share with you this weekend. None should be considered sweet.

The Wynns Coonawarra Estate Riesling 2008 is a wonderful surprise with its big petrol, slate, lime rind and mineral aromas.

Fresh, crisp and dry, its slightly austere style can easily accommodate its juicy green apple fruit flecked with lime, slate and nectarine skin flavours. Try this with smoked salmon or mussels.

The Selbach S Riesling 2008 from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer is a carbon copy of last year's effort featuring green and nectarine skin with bits of peach, slate and honey. If anything this version is slightly cleaner with creamy, bright acidity and just a hint of sweetness and delicious peachy/red apple and pear fruit flavours all with a bit of lemon squeezed over it. Perfect for the deck, pasta salads and light meats and fish.

Martin's Lane Riesling 2009 is the initial release based on collaboration between Mission Hill's owner Anthony von Mandl and winemaker John Simes, with well-known Pfalz winery owner and winemaker Fritz Hasselbach.

Expect a mineral, sea breeze, oyster shell nose with quite a soft friendly palate with plenty of red apple/peach fruit flavours streaked with bits of orange and mineral. Solid, if a bit safe, for the first release. The fruit comes off a single vineyard in East Kelowna.

Riesling without acid is like a zebra without stripes, says Martin Tesch and you see what he means when you "bite" into the Schloss Reinhartshausen Riesling Dry QBA 2008, from the Rheingau. Expect fairly tight, skinny, fresh, floral, green apple aromas with bits of lime and peach pit notes. The palate is super-dry and crisp with delicate citrus and green apple skin flavours flecked with chalk and mineral and green fruits. Fine balance and intensity that will work well with a variety of foods.

The St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Qualitätswein 2008 takes us back to the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and an elegant Riesling with crispy, crunchy fruit and that wonderful mix of acidity and smoky fruit that makes your mouth water. Bright, fresh, dry and succulent with a touch of slate in the background, it is a wine that will make you sing. Pork, chicken, fish, pasta will work with this.

Finally, we suggest the Skillogalee Single Vineyard Riesling 2009, from Clare Valley, South Australia. This is the best Skillogalee (Celtic for a gruel served prisoners) we have tasted to date. The fruit is grown above 500 metres and the tonnage is low. We love the fresh peachy, lime aromas and bright acidity and the fresh crunchy mid-palate fruit. The finish is crisp and clean. I tried this with pork tenderloin and it was perfect. Serve all summer on the deck.

Price: $15

UPC: 012354052109

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Very fresh, austere style but with big flavours. Best with mussels.

Selbach S Riesling 2008, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

Price: $16

UPC: 00717215002582

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Delicious red apple/pear flavours with a lemon squeezed over it.

Martin's Lane Riesling 2009, Kelowna

Price: $25

UPC: 776545995858

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A collaborative effort between B.C. and Germany.

Schloss Reinhartshausen Riesling Dry QBA 2008, Rheingau, Germany

Price: $20

UPC: 004005055007819

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Delicate citrus and green apple skin flavours flecked with chalk and green fruits.

St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Qualitatswein 2008, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

Price: $20

UPC: 004013231000066

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Bright, fresh, dry and succulent with a touch of slate in the background.

Skillogalee Single Vineyard Riesling 2009, Clare Valley, South Australia

Price: $24

UPC: 09331634000076

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Tried this with pork tenderloin and it was perfect. Serve all summer on the deck.