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In today's ultra-competitive wine market getting a foot on the international wine stage is sometimes tougher than making top-flight wine.
Fortunately, for
The ultra-sweet dessert wine that routinely sells for $100 a bottle has quickly captured the imagination of the wine drinkers worldwide allowing B.C. producers access to foreign markets that would have taken decades to penetrate, if at all, with our dry table wines.
Cold, harsh winter weather has always benefited wine growers in this country if only because it acts as the perfect, natural pesticide but today freezing temperatures that blanket our vineyards each winter yield a much richer reward - icewine.
Icewine, or eiswein as its German originators termed it, is a highly flavoured, intensely sweet dessert wine. By regulation, icewine must be produced exclusively from grapes that have been harvested, naturally frozen on the vine, and pressed in a continuous process while the air temperature is -8° Celsius (17°F).
The principle of icewine production is exceedingly easy. The grapes are left to hang on the vine until long after a normal fall harvest, in fact they remain on the vine long after traditional late harvest grapes are picked.
It's the freezing that signals the start of the harvest but not before the temperatures plunge to a minimum -8° Celsius although more ideally in the -11 to -14 degree range.
The actual procedure involves picking frozen grapes or marbles as they are sometimes referred to and then crushing them while they are still frozen. At this point the water content of the grape, now in the form of ice, is easily discarded. What is left, and it isn't much, is a concentrated syrup, that when fermented, yields the much coveted nectar.
Of course, you can't make icewine without the necessary cold snap and this is where the risk begins. An icewine harvest seldom starts before December. Often it can take until January or February of the following year before the minimum picking temperatures blanket the vineyard.
During this period any number of natural weather catastrophes can beset the crop from rain and snow to ice and rot to the unhelpful daily freezing and thawing cycle, not to mention predatory birds, bears, coyotes and deer. All of which explains why whatever nectar is yielded at harvest (usually in the dead of the night) you can expect to pay top dollar to sip it.
The rules alone eliminate most competition, with the exception of the aforementioned Germans and nearby
Now as for what to drink a quick survey of government liquor stores and B.C wine shops points to a wide selection of icewine selling in varying sizes, colours, grape variety's and prices.
Size versus price is an issue worth paying attention to now that many wineries have released a 200 mL and in some cases a 50 mL bottle to complement the standard 375 mL or half-bottle format.
Just keep in mind that it takes seven and one half 50 mL bottles to make up a single bottle of icewine so the 50 mL bottle at $7.25 works out to a whopping $54.37 per half bottle or $108.75 per full bottle size.
While I personally believe riesling and gewürztraminer make the best icewine, consumers seemed to prefer more variety and producers are granting their wish. In B.C. pinot blanc, ehrenfelser, chardonnay, vidal, pinot noir, merlot and cabernet franc have all been frozen on the vine.
Red icewine appears to be made for Valentine's and some of the best are made with merlot, cabernet franc and even pinot noir.
If there's any icewine pattern in B.C. it's has to do with our best producers. Gehringer Brothers have been battling with Inniskillin Okanagan and CedarCreek for years at the top of the heap although lately Jackson-Triggs, Mission Hill, Lang Vineyards are openly challenging the order.
A little over two years ago I spent a memorable afternoon helping to create an icewine glass by selecting the shape or bowl best suited to enhance the peculiar attributes of this 
unique drink.
Leading the workshop was the irrepressible Georg Riedel, guru of the wineglass and 10th-generation head of Riedel Crystal of
To recap, we poured the same icewine into a dozen different shaped glasses and after a series of elimination rounds, several bottles of icewine and some heated debate we managed to reduce the numbers to three glasses.
One glass designed for Port wine seemed to concentrate the nose; another made for sauvignon blanc appeared to accentuate the one-dimensional sweet fruit of icewine while the only Riedel glass designed for dessert wine - a tulip-shaped Sauterne glass - appeared to peel the wine open exposing another layer of fruit and sugar.
It was that remaining trio that inspired the new, diamond-shaped Icewine glass that was further refined by Riedel before it was sent back to the panel for final approval.
Since then the striking glass was released under Riedel's Vinum Extreme series and is available around the world to icewine drinkers.
GISMONDI ON WINE ICEWINE HALL OF FAME
Check back regularly as we add reviews of new and old icewine to our Hall of Fame. We only have one parameter for inclusion. We must be knocked out by the wine.
2008
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Apricot, orange, nectarine, quince, baked apple, floral aromas. Rich, round, full with good acidity and good sugar balance. Lime, orange, guava, apricot, green apple, spicy, honey flavours. Good concentration and acidity, very long finish. Fine effort with some finesse.
Tasted: 2009-10-19 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $60.00 (750 ml) winery direct and private wine shops; QC $60.00 (750 ml)
UPC: 776545995636
Producer: Mission Hill Family Estate
Distributor: Mark Anthony Wine Merchants; Mission Hill Winery
92/100 Stoneboat Vineyards Verglas 2007
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
According to Wikipedia, "verglas is a term for a thin layer of water ice coating a rocky surface or footpath. It poses a danger to hill walkers and rock climbers, being extremely slippery and often nearly invisible." No such danger stems from drinking this fabulous botrytised oranienstenier whose vines are 26 years old. Complex aromas that one normally doesn't associate with most icewines because they are seldom affected by botrytis. Revel in the intense, super sweet peach, pineapple and melon flavours. The palate and finish is fat but fresh with a decent dollop of acidity. Well done.
Tasted: 2009-11-08 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $55.00 (375 ml) winery direct
UPC: 626990058984
Producer: Stoneboat Vineyards
Distributor: Foremost Wine Domaines Inc.; Winery Direct
2007
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Apricot, waxy, butter, citrus rind, floral, smoky, red apple aromas. Fat, round, rich, soft palate with baked red apple, pear, apricot, waxy, orange floral flavours. Good fruit intensity if a bit fat. More acidity to balance the sweetness would take this to another level.
Tasted: 2008-06-30 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $25.00 (200 ml) VQA wine shops
UPC: 624802034072
Producer: Tinhorn Creek Vineyards
Distributor: Renaissance Wine Merchants Ltd.
2006
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Open waxy, dried apricot, marmalade, floral, spicy sausage, citrus nose. Rich, fat, round with big concentration. Big apricot, floral, spicy, buttery, citrus, waxy flavours. Good acidity and sugar balance on the finish if a touch warm. Wonderful expression of ehrenfelser.
Tasted: 2007-12-20 by AG
Prices: BC $50.00 (750 ml) specialty listing
CSPC: 551739; UPC: 623871030053
Producer: Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery
Distributor: International Cellars Inc.
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Big apricot, honey, lime, waxy, orange aromas with a hint of light nalgene. Ripe, rich, round, slightly fat style but decent acid sugar balance. Lots of ripe apple, orange, mineral, apricot, honey flavours. Elegant, full style you should drink while its young.
Tasted: 2007-12-13 by AG
Prices: BC $50.00 (750 ml) vqa and private wine shops
CSPC: 504860; UPC: 623871030039
Producer: Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery
Distributor: International Cellars Inc.
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Very floral, spicy, orange, ripe peach baked green apple aromas. Fresh, fat, round, elegant style with moderate acidity. Nalgene, baked green apple, floral, apricot skin, orange rind flavours. Good solid effort if a bit fat and warm.
Tasted: 2008-06-30 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $25.00 (200 ml) VQA wine stores
CSPC: 079467; UPC: 624738016289
Producer: See You Later Ranch
Distributor: Vincor Canada - A Constellation Company
2005
94/100 Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Riesling Icewine Proprietors' Grand Reserve 2005
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Floral, lime, green apple, apricot, mineral aromas. Ripe, sweet and elegant with very good acidity and viscosity. Lime, green apple, orange, pineapple, nectarine flavours that persist throughout. Great fruit and acidity with fine balance but very young. Very fine effort.
Tasted: 2006-11-14 by ST
Prices: BC $60.00 (750 ml) winery direct, VQA and private wine shops
CSPC: 597120; UPC: 063657005781
Producer: Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate
Distributor: Vincor International
93/100 Inniskillin Okanagan Vidal Icewine 2005
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Honey, orange rind, mineral, green apple skin, light petrol nose with a touch of plasticene. Ripe, round, rich and elegant style with moderate acidity and sweetness but good balance. Orange marmalade, cream, mineral, passion fruit, plasticene and grapefruit flavours. Rich but elegant with very good acidity on the finish and it's only 9.6% alcohol. A delicious example of vidal icewine.
Tasted: 2006-12-21 by AG
Prices: BC $52.99 (375 ml) specialty listing
CSPC: 558452; UPC: 00620654558452
Producer: Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards Inc.
Distributor: Vincor International
92/100 Inniskillin Okanagan Riesling Icewine Dark Horse Vineyard 2005
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Green apple, lime, apricot, mineral, ripe mango aromas. Sweet, rich, ripe and fat but very good acidity. Baked apple, peach, orange, mango flavours. Very ripe, tropical finish with great fruit.
Tasted: 2006-12-15 by AG
Prices: BC $60.00 (750 ml) specialty listing
CSPC: 558445; UPC: 00620654558445
Producer: Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards Inc.
Distributor: Vincor International
91/100 Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Riesling Icewine 2005
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Warm baked apple, butter, nectarine, orange, mineral aromas. Fat, rich, ripe and sweet with good acidity but very unctuous. Citrus, dried apricot, mango, pear flavours. Intense, big style that is a bit too fat but has good fruit and acidity if a touch warm. Not quite as fine as the '04.
Tasted: 2006-11-14 by ST
Prices: BC $59.99 (750 ml) winery direct and private wine shops
CSPC: 988535; UPC: 836909010594
Producer: Nk'Mip Cellars
Distributor: Vincor International
2004
95/100 Mission Hill S.L.C. Riesling Icewine 2004
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Very floral, grapefruit, mineral, orange, baked pear, light plasticene/vinyl aromas. Ripe, fresh, crisp but fat with green apple, orange, grapefruit, baked pear, honey flavours and some key lime on the finish. Very good acidity and balance in a more narrower mouth profile. Fine effort. Released Feb 06
Tasted: 2006-01-27 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $59.95 (750 ml) fine wine boutiques; BC $79.99 (750 ml) winery direct and private wine shops
CSPC: 444794; UPC: 776545995650
Producer: Mission Hill Family Estate
Distributor: Mark Anthony Wine Merchants; Mission Hill Winery
94/100 Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Riesling Icewine 2004
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Open mineral, pear, vinyl, citrus rind, green apple, peach aromas with a floral note. Ripe, rich, round, slightly fatter style with orange, pear, mineral, baked apple, marmalade flavours. Good acidity and length with some pear, creamsicle flavours on the finish. Well balanced with verve and flavour intensity.
Tasted: 2005-12-10 by AG
Prices: BC $59.99 (750 ml) winery direct and private wine shops
CSPC: 988535; UPC: 836909010594
Producer: Nk'Mip Cellars
Distributor: Vincor International
92/100 Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2004
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada
Intense dried apricot, mandarin marmalade, nalgene, mineral, floral, spicy aromas, very clean vidal. Rich, round, elegant style with good acidity and sugar balance. Lots of marmalade, red apple, spicy, apricot, nectarine skin flavours with a long fruity finish. Very fine vidal icewine.
Tasted: 2006-06-13 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $25.99 (200 ml) specialty listing
CSPC: 565861; UPC: 00776409658615
Producer: Chateau des Charmes
Distributor: Promark Fine Wines & Spirits
92/100 Rollingdale Sweet Tooth Series 2004 Pinot Blanc Icewine 2004
Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Ripe pear, apricot, red apple, marzipan, egg yolk aromas. Rich, sweet, intense palate with good acidity. Baked peach, apple, orange, creamy, mango and honey flavours. Fine fruit and acidity with good intensity. Well done and a nice surprise for pinot blanc.
Tasted: 2006-08-17 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $70.00 (375 ml) winery direct
UPC: 873927000237
Producer: Rollingdale Winery
Distributor: Red Dog Sales and Marketing Wine & Spirits
2003
93/100 Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Riesling Icewine Proprietors' Grand Reserve 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
The PGR shows more yellow colour than the PR. The nose is an intense mix of mineral, plasticene, baked apple and quince aromas with a touch of citrus peel and apricot. Again it is richer and a bit riper (versus the PR) with lots of acidity and still balanced. More mineral, citrus rind, green apple skin, peach and baked pear flavours marked the palate with a slightly bitter rind and butter finish. Ready to drink.
Tasted: 2004-10-29 by AG
Prices: BC $59.99 (375 ml) Speculative - Atlas Wine Merchants
CSPC: 597120; UPC: 063657005781
Producer: Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate
Distributor: Vincor International
92/100 Jackson-Triggs Riesling Icewine Proprietors' Reserve 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Intense mineral, baked apple, mineral, citrus rind aromas with a touch of plastic/vinyl curtain and underlying canned peach notes. Very rich, viscous, sweet, intense palate with moderate acidity. Good apricot, mineral, dried peach, red apple, marmalade flavours with a touch of citrus and plastic. Fine acidity and balance on the finish. A solid icewine.
Tasted: 2004-11-04 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $49.99 (375 ml); BC $52.99 (375 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 597104; UPC: 063657005750
Producer: Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate
Distributor: Vincor International
92/100 Mission Hill S.L.C. Riesling Icewine 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Night harvested at minus 12 degrees Celsius has done the trick here. We definitely prefer the freshness here and the slightly lighter weight on the mid-palate. It's sweet enough to attract all yet there is a luscious edge and an acidity lift at the back end that makes this more drinkable. Look for bright apricot fruit and peach skin flavours throughout. Built for dessert but you could serve it solo.
Tasted: 2005-02-06 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $79.99 (375 ml) Winery, Mark Anthony Wine Marts, Private Wine Shops
CSPC: 624627; UPC: 776545995353
Producer: Mission Hill Family Estate
Distributor: Mark Anthony Wine Merchants; Mission Hill Winery
91/100 Inniskillin Okanagan Riesling Icewine Dark Horse Vineyard 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
It's been several years since we've tasted the Inniskillin Riesling Icewine ― presumably they don't need any help selling these $120 per bottle wines. As it happens the wine was a major hit at the Canadian Wine Awards and is progressing just fine since that August tasting. Look for a lifted aromatic nose of pineapple and citrus and peach with a buttery almost shortbread cookie finish. Very rich and weighty ― all Inniskillin.
Tasted: 2005-02-06 by AG
Prices: BC $60.00 (750 ml) Winery
CSPC: 558445; UPC: 620654558445
Producer: Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards Inc.
Distributor: Vincor International
91/100 Sumac Ridge Gewürztraminer Icewine 2003
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
This has a gorgeous spicy 'gewurz' nose with litchi fruit and mango undertones. The entry is rich and smooth with plenty of residual sugar throughout its bright, honey and pineapple/tropical fruit flavours with distinct floral notes. Fine balance, weight and length extended throughout its long spicy finish.
Tasted: 2004-10-14 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $29.99 (200 ml) VQA Wine Stores
UPC: 778876010934
Producer: Sumac Ridge Estate Winery
Distributor: Vincor International
2002
93/100 Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Riesling Icewine Proprietors' Grand Reserve 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
The PGR shows more yellow colour than the PR. The nose is an intense mix of mineral, plasticene, baked apple and quince aromas with a touch of citrus peel and apricot. Again it is richer and a bit riper (versus the PR) with lots of acidity and still balanced. More mineral, citrus rind, green apple skin, peach and baked pear flavours marked the palate with a slightly bitter rind and butter finish. Ready to drink.
T asted: 2004-10-29 by AG
Prices: BC $59.99 (375 ml) Speculative - Atlas Wine Merchants
CSPC: 597120; UPC: 063657005781
Producer: Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate
Distributor: Vincor International
93/100 Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Riesling Icewine Proprietors' Reserve 2002
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Intense fresh baked apple, vanilla cream, mineral, pear nose. Rich and intense with crisp acidity. Big green apple, citrus, buttery, baked pear flavours with a mineral, nectarine finish. Quite intense but also has good balance and finesse. Solid.
Tasted: 2004-03-23 by AG
Prices: BC $52.99 (375 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 597104; UPC: 063657005750
Producer: Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate
Distributor: Vincor International
2001
91/100 Sumac Ridge Pinot Blanc Icewine 2001
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Mineral, ripe apricot, marmalade, cream nose with a touch of plastic pail. Rich, ripe, round entry but quite elegant with medium acidity. Fresh citrus, buttery, baked pear, mineral flavours with some nectarine. Well balanced and ready to drink now or over the next year or so.
Tasted: 2004-03-23 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $59.99 (375 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 453936; UPC: 778876139369
Producer: Sumac Ridge Estate Winery
Distributor: Vincor International
2000
93/100 Jackson-Triggs Riesling Icewine Proprietors' Reserve 2000
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Open mineral, green apple, and peach aromas with touch of Vaseline/plastic pail and slate highlights. Big intense peach green apple and citrus flavours. Intense with very high acid and sugar. We like the balance but it's a blockbuster. Excellent icewine.
Tasted: 2001-09-01 by AG
Prices: BC $52.99 (375 ml) Specialty
Producer: Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate
Distributor: Vincor International
92/100 Hawthorne Mountain Ehrenfelser Icewine Gold Label Series 2000
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Yellow colour. Open orange marmalade, floral, mineral citrus characters. Ripe rich, apricot marmalade mineral flavours. Very intense and full flavoured in the finish without any cloying flavours. Perhaps the best expression of the Ehrenfelser is Icewine. Tasted: 2003-03-01 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $49.95 (375 ml) Specialty
Producer: Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards
Distributor: Vincor International
91/100 Inniskillin Okanagan Vidal Icewine 2000
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Big mineral, nectarine, marmalade aromas with notes of vinyl, honey and mint. Ripe, round and balanced with good sugar and acidity balance. Ripe apple, apricot, marmalade flavours dominate with a fresh citrus, mineral finish. An elegant style with good acidity and definitely a star for Vidal.
Tasted: 2003-04-30 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $51.99 (375 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 558452; UPC: 620654558452
Producer: Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards Inc.
Distributor: Vincor International
1999
94/100 CedarCreek Riesling Icewine 1999
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Lovely fresh "riesling" nose packed with green apple, citrus lemon aromas. Its youthful flavours are similar with a wonderful taut structure and plenty of nervy acidity. Great structure and while the acidity will scare some it will carry the wine for decades. One of the year's best for sure.
Tasted: 2000-09-01 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $54.95 (750 ml) Specialty 375 mL
Producer: CedarCreek Estate Winery
Distributor: Hobbs & Co. Wine Merchants Inc.; Medallion Wine Marketing
92/100 Inniskillin Okanagan Riesling Icewine Dark Horse Vineyard 1999
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Young fresh nose of apple and nectarine and a floral honey character. Slightly skinnier than the Lang riesling but there's a wonderful mix of nectarine skin, apricot and mineral flavours. Very good acid/sugar balance. Its long persistent finish is a touch alcoholic.
Tasted: 2001-09-01 by AG
Prices: BC $60.00 (375 ml) Winery
Producer: Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards Inc.
Distributor: Vincor International
91/100 Summerhill Riesling Icewine 1999
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Open apricot, plastic pail, citrus, ripe apple aromas and a touch of smoky mineral. Rich, round, moderately delicate with nice acidity and sugar balance. Good ripe apple, apricot, mineral and citrus flavours. Nice elegance and balance, drink now and over next 2-3 years.
Tasted: 2000-09-01 by AG
Prices: BC $68.00 (750 ml) (375 mL)
Producer: Summerhill Pyramid Winery
Distributor: Renaissance Wine Merchants Ltd.
1998
91/100 Sumac Ridge Pinot Blanc Reserve Icewine 1998
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Lighter peach fruit but lots of mineral highlights. Intense baked apple fruit flavours with quite a bit of volatile characters. Very intense. Big enough to pour onto ice cream.
Tasted: 2001-03-01 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $29.95 (375 ml) Specialty
Producer: Sumac Ridge Estate Winery
Distributor: Vincor International
1997
92/100 Quails' Gate Riesling Icewine 1997
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Good ripe riesling nose of green apple, peach and citrus aromas. There is a touch of unnecessary matchstick on an otherwise fine nose. Lovely mouthfeel, great balance and delicate style. Look for green apple, mineral lemon/lime rind flavours. Fine intensity and length.
Tasted: 1998-09-01 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $54.95 (750 ml) (375mL)
Producer: Quails' Gate Vineyards Estate Winery
Distributor: Medallion Wine Marketing
89/100 Mission Hill Riesling Icewine Grand Reserve 1997
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Very pale yellow. Buttery tropical fruit aromas with a hint of oxidation in the background. Light flavours of green apples, citrus, honey and tropical fruit with a citric finish. Good sugar-acid balance but light in extract and riesling character.
Tasted: 1998-09-01 by AG
Prices: BC $59.90 (375 ml) Specialty
Producer: Mission Hill Family Estate
Distributor: Mark Anthony Wine Merchants; Mission Hill Winery
91/100 Hawthorne Mountain Ehrenfelser Icewine 1997
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Pale yellow. Fine intensity of floral orange blossom mineral citrus characters. Good acid, lovely citrus apricot tones and styling with fine orange notes in the finish. Light on body but long in flavour. Impressive for Ehrenfelser.
Tasted: 1998-09-01 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $49.95 (375 ml) Specialty
Producer: Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards
Distributor: Vincor International
91/100 Jackson-Triggs Riesling Icewine Proprietors' Reserve 1997
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Open mineral, green apple, and peach aromas with touch of Vaseline/plastic pail highlights on the nose. Ripe, sweet fruit in the mouth with very fine intensity. Fairly high acid and warm finish but we like the citrus zabaglione finish. Very good wine.
Tasted: 1998-09-01 by AG
Prices: BC $50.00 (375 ml) Specialty
Producer: Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate
Distributor: Vincor International
