France is the underlying theme of the festival that features some 60 French producers representing the main wine producing regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Languedoc, Alsace, the Rhone and Loire valleys.
The runaway ticket sales have surprised many, including this writer, given the state of interest in French wines by B.C. consumers. People love to talk Bordeaux and Burgundy but buying it is a different story. France currently boasts just over six per cent of the total wine market (in dollar sales) including sparkling and fortified wine and just over 11 per cent of the total imported wine market. The numbers are very different from the heady days of the '70s and '80s when they controlled almost half of import wine sales.
There is no problem selling the top names, although in the case of Bordeaux the market is all but confined to a one-day event in government liquor stores each year when the new vintage is released. Hard-core collectors faithfully line up to buy limited amounts of classified reds, and that's about all one hears from the famed region for the rest of the year.
There have been some bright lights. Champagne has always been a global wine and most likely, that perspective has saved the world's finest fizz from slumping sales. The vast appellation of Languedoc, in the south of France, is widely heralded as the region that could turn the French wine ship around, as are parts of the Rhone Valley but it's taking more time than many had thought.
That said the French are coming to Vancouver in a big way this month and next and they are investing a bundle of money, too. A week at the wine festival can cost an offshore winery upwards of $10,000. It's a serious bill if you are only making a profit of a few dollars per case. Just imagine how many bottles need to be sold to justify your investment.
In addition to its presence at the wine festival, BC Liquor Stores and the Wines of France (Sopexa Canada) are in the midst of French wine campaign in 50 stores around the province. The promotion features a wide selection of French brands and participating consumers get the chance to win a vacation for two at the Opio resort in Provence, France. Entry forms are available at participating B.C. liquor stores.
Today we look at six offerings, but there will be much more to discover at the festival.
Pouilly-Fuisse is an appellation in Burgundy, although calling it a chardonnay might be a more effective sales tool. The Chartron et Trebuchet Pouilly-Fuisse 2002 is a delightful white, floral scented, with ripe, green apple aromas, lime, baked pear and flinty butter flavours. There's fine acidity and it's ready-to-drink. Try with sole or halibut.
The bookend red is the Faiveley Bourgogne Pinot Noir Paulee 2003. Look for bright wild berry, black cherry aromas and soft but tart black raspberry, strawberry, spicy, cedar bark flavours. This red wine is built for food and we recommend the classic pairing: the duck confit dish.
Domaine Bressy Masson 2004 is a grenache/mourvedre blend that takes us to the Cotes du Rhone. It has an enticing floral meaty sausage nose, with flecks of black raspberry and tobacco. Very soft and rich on the palate, almost New World-like with its savoury, raspberry jam, meaty character and dry finish. Solid, and ready to drink now.
Red Bicyclette Syrah 2003 is a new wine from the Gallo folks that is made in the south of France. The fruit comes out of the Minervois and Maury appellations of central and southeastern Languedoc. The colour is deep. The nose a mix of fresh cassis and spice with richer, jammier fruit in the finish. Perfect with most hardy winter dishes or most anything off the grill. Good value.
Sweet wine is a specialty of the Sauternes region of Bordeaux. Chateau Roumieu Sauternes 2003 is a blend of semillon, sauvignon blanc and muscadelle that sports a fresh marmalade nose with flecks of roasted apricot, honey and baked apple aromas. It's soft and warm on the palate with moderate sweetness. Best for near term consumption over the next three to five years. Excellent value.
The finale is a sparkling bottle of Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial Champagne. The textures are creamy with toasted biscuit aromas spiked with floral, peach, undertones. The flavours are a crisp mix of creamy, nutty, red apple and citrus notes on the finish. A fine improvement in style over the last few years.
Vive la France
CHARTRON ET TREBUCHET POUILLY-FUISSE 2002, MACONNAIS,
BURGUNDY
Price: $37.95
UPC: 786496505556
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Ready-to-drink chardonnay. Try with sole or halibut.
FAIVELEY BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR PAULEE 2003, BURGUNDY
Price: $25.95
UPC: 3351000180313
Score: 86/100
Remarks : Built for food; duck confit or pate would work.
DOMAINE BRESSY MASSON AC COTES DU RHONE 2004, COTES DU RHONE
Price: $19.99
UPC: 808755003006
Score: 87/100
Remarks: New World-like with savoury raspberry jam and meaty character.
RED BICYCLETTE SYRAH 2003, VIN DE PAYS D'OC, LANGUEDOC, FRANCE
Price: $16.99
UPC: 085000012932
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Fresh cassis and spice with rich jammy fruit. Good value.
MOET & CHANDON BRUT IMPERIAL, CHAMPAGNE
Price: $62.95
UPC: 3185370000335
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Creamy, nutty, red apple and citrus flavours. Good intensity.
CHATEAU ROUMIEU SAUTERNES, BORDEAUX
Price: $23.20
UPC: 3258691195605
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Marmalade, baked apple, peach and honey flavours.
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