#freemygrapes

1 beverage consumed by British Columbians (something I suspect may happen by year's end), governments both provincial and federal continue to exhibit little or no understanding of what makes this vibrant industry work.

Legislation to allow interprovincial shipping of Canadian wine came to a screeching halt this week thanks to an NDP filibuster in Parliament. Despite widespread optimism in the wine community, there is nothing remotely simple about a request that would allow Canadians to transport wine across provincial borders. Highly convoluted tax laws, liquor monopolies, international trade agreements and special interest groups are all conspiring to leave things exactly the way they are: highly regulated and highly taxed.

If there is a bright side to what is a dark story, it is the will of local wine producers to forge ahead even while government officials constrained their ability to sell wine to all Canadians.

On Monday, I stood in the middle of Switchback Vineyards, near Summerland in the Okanagan Valley, and met with viticulturalist and grower Theo Siemens. He was beaming, having seemingly conquered his 2012 cutworm problem without using any pesticides on his emerging organic vineyard. We were standing chest high in a mix of ground covers that have a natural resistance to the pest, in essence getting the job done and adding precious organic matter to the soil.

At the far end of the vineyards, Siemens is raising earthworms in bins of composting pumice (skins, seeds etc., left over from last year's ferments). Later this spring, he will incorporate the worms back into the property, hoping to improve aeration in the soil and that their castings will attract bacteria that may help combat harmful mould spores. This is cutting edge viticulture in a world of conventional farming. My guess is that as earth friendly, organic and bio-dynamic farming spreads across the valley it will attract more and more of the right kind of attention to B.C. vineyards.

There may be some (import vintners) who would argue that government has done more than enough for local wine producers and they wouldn't be wrong, but any helping hand given to the B.C. wine industry in its formative years has been duplicated many times over in the rest of the wine world. That said, it's time government gets out of the way and passes Bill C-311 -- and producers need to find a way to cooperate and get on with the next steps required to make the Okanagan a unique place to grow grapes, one with a sense of place and identity.

If politicians feel the need to stick their untrained noses into the wine business, let it be for research and development. A well-funded, high level, school of viticulture and winemaking would be widely welcomed. There is so much to be learned and passed on to future growers, encouraging everyone to preserve the vineyards of British Columbia and maintain the ecosystem that will let us express to the world a different story about our wines.

In the meantime, here are more of the labels that have impressed me this spring and that you should, ironically, be able to easily access in government stores.

The Flat Roof Manor Pinot Grigio 2011 from South Africa, a bargain at $13, is an easy-sipping white that appears as if it is half Sauvignon Blanc. The entry is soft and round with fresh, lemony, peachy fruit with a hint of honey. There is enough residual sugar here to work with spicy appetizers.

Each year the De Martino Legado Reserva Chardonnay 2011 over-delivers. Expect a mix of apple, pear, vanilla, light butterscotch, citrus and mango aromas and a fresh, juicy, round, slightly sweet entry with grapefruit, honey, peach, pineapple, creamy lees and light vanilla flavours. A delicious, fruity, juicy style with intensity. Halibut with a fruit salsa would be a fine match.

Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2011 is serious Marlborough wine. The nose is intense and laced with passion fruit, nettle, minerality and citrus. The attack is fresh, the acidity electric, with tropical fruit characters and more nettle, lemon grass and ripe melon. Lovely fresh Sauvignon made for a variety of white cheeses or West Coast shell fish.

If grilled or roasted lamb is on the menu this weekend, pick up the Saint Desirat Syrah 2009 from Coteaux de l'Ardèche in the South of France. Dry, savoury, smoky, garrigue notes preview a smooth, fresh palate with light, dry tannins and black cherry, smoky, herbal, tobacco, cedar and roasted meat flavours. Solid fruit and intensity, but in lean style with good acidity. Made for the dinner table.

Vistalba Corte C 2009 is a blend or corte of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. There is a pureness of fruit that attracts with bay leaf and mineral, black fruit aromas. The attack is soft but dense with fine mid-palate cassis, currants and coffee with floral dried herbs. Fine concentration and balance will allow it to age three to five years, or serve now with your favourite steak.

The story at Valle Las Acequias Malbec Oak 2007 is all about the vines, all 85-plus years of them, that deliver intensity with finesse and style and plenty of red fruits and floral undertones. The fruit is ripe but not over the top, with flecks of cranberry and crushed black pepper. The palate is fresh with savoury red fruit flavours and spice. Try this with your favourite firm cheese or meat dish.

Price: $13

UPC: 6001108015457

Score: 85/100

Remarks: The entry is soft and round with fresh, lemony, peachy fruit.

De Martino Legado Reserva Chardonnay 2011, Limari Valley, Chile

Price: $18

UPC: 07804395000323

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Fruity, juicy style suited to halibut with fruit salsa.

Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough, New Zealand

Price: $27

UPC: 9421018110016

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Fresh, serious Sauvignon for a variety of white cheeses or West Coast shell fish.

Saint Desirat Syrah 2009, Vin de Pays des Coteaux de l'Ardèche, Languedoc, France

Price: $15

UPC: 003331452104136

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Best with grilled lamb, grilled duck or a beef stew.

Vistalba Corte C 2009, Vistalba District, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $20

UPC: 007798121940031

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Serve now with your favourite cut of steak.

Valle Las Acequias Malbec Oak 2007, Medrano, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina

Price: $22

UPC: 007798067083731

Score: 89/100

Remarks: The fruit is ripe with flecks of cranberry and crushed black pepper.

Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Where+there+will+there+wine/6716293/story.html#ixzz1zOQAOCis