France Attempts A Comeback

So you have to ask, how is that nearly 40 vignerons, from all parts of France, including several bio-dynamic producers, found there way to Colombie-Britannique this week and spent considerable time and money to talk about their latest releases?

The good news for our French visitors is that for the first time in over a decade the consumption of their wines is on the rise in B.C.

According to the folks at Sopexa Canada, who watch the French wine market closely, sales in 2006 increased nearly 9 per cent to reach 20,496 hectolitres or just over 232,000 cases. The most recent quarterly report published by the BCLDB indicates that the total value of French wine sales reached $43.3 million last year.

After years of stagnation or decline, each of the key French appellations increased sales in 2006 and, typically in B.C., the value of sales per category is growing faster than the volume. Translation: We are prepared to spend money on French wine as long as it's the good stuff.

It's a start, but given the entire French category is barely outselling the single Oz phenom (yellowtail), there is plenty of room to grow.

Canadian consumers are showing some remarkable resilience when it comes to wine and wine trends, moving forward at breakneck speed, reshaping their palates on a daily basis as they shift from red to white when required or rose, as will be the case this summer. We have accepted synthetic corks and screw caps, boxes and bags, and we are only at the beginning.

Historically, change in the wine world has been strongly resisted. Yet even in Europe, the home of tradition, there is a sense that producers are coming round to see wine from the consumer's point of view.

As the day of the ordinary varietal wine comes to an end in the New World, there is hope for a new order in wine, one in which producers will go out of their way to explain where their wine comes from and which grape or grapes might be in the bottle, and one in which consumers recognize quality -- and quality dictates price.

The French have been painfully slow to pick up on this, preferring to beat the terroir and appellation drum, and it has had a dramatic impact on their ability to sell us wine. After an invigorating week with so many proactive producers, it would appear France wants back in the game -- and perhaps sooner than anyone could have guessed.

The Perrin family mixes grenache with several southern Rhone grapes, syrah, mourvedre and cinsault in its La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Ventoux Rouge 2005. It's their first release under screwcap and it remains dry and firm, with more peppery, licorice, meaty dark-red fruit flavours. There is no mistaking its lean Euro style, all it needs is a stew or ragout to tame the edges. Good value.

The Chateau Pesquie Cotes-du-Ventoux Les Terrasses 2004 is a 70/30 blend of grenache and syrah that perfectly reflects the classic 2004 vintage. Not too hot, it has a freshness of flavour spiked with fruity floral hints and jammy berry fruit flavours. Only about a fifth of the blend sees wood, and very little of that is new oak. This is a well- priced and well-made Ventoux. The winery suggests you pair it with terrines, poultry or grilled meats.

I have always enjoyed the nutty, honey, buttery, vanilla nose of the Louis Latour Grand Ardeche Chardonnay 2003. This slightly smoky, mineral chardonnay with the baked pear, nutty, citrus, creamy vanilla and honey flavours is ready to drink with a variety of seafood and white meat dishes.

Chateau Pesquie Quintessence Rouge 2003 is a power-packed Cotes-du-Ventoux at a very fair price. It's made with an 80/20 blend of syrah and grenache selected from old, south-facing vines. The '03 is a super warm year boasting power, length, delicious licorice, black-fruit flavours and supple textures. Think venison, wild boar, or turkey.

The Delas Cotes-du-Ventoux 2004 is less fat than the super ripe '03 version and delivers more harmony and balance. This grenache/syrah blend is bright and bold with spicy, black fruit, almond, blueberry scents followed by warm soft mid-palate textures. On the palate there are hints of licorice, smoky black cherry and bits of orange. Definitely a solid mid-week dinner red that will age a year or two more.

Finally the new Chateau Sainte Eulalie La Cantilene 2004, has arrived from Minervois, Languedoc. The last vintage was a big winner at the Wine Access International Value Wine Awards thanks to its attractive nose of licorice, chocolate, pepper, black cherry and spice, and the 2004 is just as inviting. The entry is full and round, the tannins gripp-y, with plenty of peppery, meaty, black cherry/licorice plum/prune fruit, flecked with orange and vanilla. Think about serving this with hearty roast dinners of game or meat.

LA FOLLIE FRANCAISE

LA VIEILLE FERME COTES DU VENTOUX ROUGE 2005, RHONE VALLEY
Price: $13.99
UPC: 631470000018
Score: 85/100
Remarks: Dry and firm with peppery, licorice, meaty dark red fruit flavours.

CHATEAU PESQUIE COTES-DU-VENTOUX LES TERRASSES 2004, RHONE VALLEY
Price: $16.99
UPC: 0626990005377
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Well priced, well-made Ventoux to pair with poultry or grilled meats.

DELAS COTES-DU-VENTOUX 2004, RHONE VALLEY
Price: $16.99
UPC: 753625103501
Score: 86/100
Remarks: A solid mid-week dinner red that will age a year or two more.

LOUIS LATOUR GRAND ARDECHE CHARDONNAY 2003, FRANCE
Price: $19.99
UPC: 00326861101961
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Butter, baked pear, lees, nutty, citrus, creamy vanilla and honey flavours.

CHATEAU PESQUIE QUINTESSENCE ROUGE 2003, COTES-DU-VENTOUX, RHONE VALLEY
Price: $29.99
UPC: 03439929910096
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Serious Cotes du Ventoux at a very fair price.

CHATEAU SAINTE EULALIE LA CANTILENE 2004, MINERVOIS, LANGUEDOC
Price: $24.99
UPC: 03548602001034
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Black cherry, plum/prune fruit flecked with orange and vanilla.