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Robert Skalli is at it again.
A decade after he launched his visionary Mediterranean varietals under the name of Fortant de France, capturing 30 per cent of the French varietal market and establishing Fortant as an international force, word comes that Skalli will launch a new series of appellation wines that respect the terroir -- the unique natural growing conditions -- of the Languedoc.
It really is a smart idea. With the reputation of the Languedoc now re-established by the varietals of Fortant and others, Skalli will attempt to rebuild international respect for the region's somewhat forgotten appellations such as Corbieres, Minervois and Coteaux de Languedoc.
The latest Skalli "appellation" wines are not yet ready for release, but the 1998 Fortant varietals have arrived. I recently met with winemaker Philippe Tolleret to talk about the appellation wines, but more important for today's purposes, to preview the '98 Fortant varietals.
Almost anywhere in the Languedoc, 1998 proved to be a great year to grow grapes. While Fortant is often a solid choice, it is years like 1998 that make the label more than just a good buy -- it's the type connoisseurs tend to pounce on to meet their everyday needs.
Tolleret said the winter of '97-'98 was "extremely dry in the south, with only small amounts of rain falling in April and May." The rest of the year the grapes matured and were harvested in drought-like conditions." Translation: small berries, intense ripe fruit, full-flavoured wines.
On to the taste test. To balance Tolleret's remarks, I've added my own, and given the wines my score (out of 20). Here's how they taste:
We began with the sauvignon blanc. Maybe it's because I've tasted too many of those oaky chardonnays filling the market, but I'm very receptive to sauvignon these days. This one is a winner. Tolleret describes the fruit as having "tart and rich aromas of pineapple, apricot and yellow flowers." I found it a delicious blend of citrus and exotic fruits. To accompany it, think shellfish and/or salads, or use liberally as an aperitif.
The chardonnay is similarly fresh, "with only a portion of the wine undergoing barrel fermentation." The aromas are "white fruits, pear and hazelnuts, with a touch of honey in the finish." It finishes long and ripe with hints of figs and vanilla. White meats and simple fish dishes were Tolleret's menu suggestions.
Merlot was the first red. Tolleret spoke again of the superb weather and its impact on the deep red color. "Black currants, raspberries and cherries" was his description of the nose. There are some green hints in the flavours of thyme and pine, but the wine is round and smooth on the palate. Fresh goat cheese seems appropriate with it, or perhaps grilled chicken.
The cabernet sauvignon is no less dark. Tolleret found "red candied fruits, leather and tobacco" on the nose and "a full-bodied earthiness on the palate." The finish is long and soft. Roasted dishes with grilled vegetables would work well with it.
The final red, a syrah, has been a favourite of mine for years, but in 1998, at $9.95 a bottle, it is magical. Tolleret calls the initial nose "a mix of candied fruits and licorice, followed by intense aroma of red fruit and leather." Look for lovely round, sweet fruit that is perfectly ripe in the mouth. This is one of the most sensuous Fortant reds tasted to date, and sure to be hit around the barbecue. A great partner for red meat (especially lamb), poultry and soft cheeses.
Along with prices for regular-size bottles, I've included prices for those available in magnums, and for two others (chardonnay and merlot) that meet the requirements to be deemed kosher.
Fortant de France
Vins de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France
Wine: 1998 Sauvignon Blanc
Price: $9.95 ($16.95 for 1.5 L)
Stock No.: 273235
Score: 15.5/20
Comment: Gobs of fresh, ripe tropical fruit.
Wine: 1998 Chardonnay
Price: $10.25
Stock No.: 256560
Score: 15/20
Comment: Enticing mix of pear, hazelnuts, honey. (Kosher label is 433185; $13.25)
Wine: 1997 Merlot
Price: $10.35 ($17.95 for 1.5 L)
Stock No.: 293969
Score: 14.5/20
Comment: Rich, round, red and smooth. (Kosher label is 433177; $13.25)
Wine: 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon
Price: $10.35
Stock No.: 218123
Score: 14/20
Comment: Full-flavoured red fruits, with touches of tobacco and leather.
Wine: 1998 Syrah
Price: $9.95
Stock No.: 271510
Score: 16/20
Comment: Magical, peppery fruit from the south of France.
It really is a smart idea. With the reputation of the Languedoc now re-established by the varietals of Fortant and others, Skalli will attempt to rebuild international respect for the region's somewhat forgotten appellations such as Corbieres, Minervois and Coteaux de Languedoc.
The latest Skalli "appellation" wines are not yet ready for release, but the 1998 Fortant varietals have arrived. I recently met with winemaker Philippe Tolleret to talk about the appellation wines, but more important for today's purposes, to preview the '98 Fortant varietals.
Almost anywhere in the Languedoc, 1998 proved to be a great year to grow grapes. While Fortant is often a solid choice, it is years like 1998 that make the label more than just a good buy -- it's the type connoisseurs tend to pounce on to meet their everyday needs.
Tolleret said the winter of '97-'98 was "extremely dry in the south, with only small amounts of rain falling in April and May." The rest of the year the grapes matured and were harvested in drought-like conditions." Translation: small berries, intense ripe fruit, full-flavoured wines.
On to the taste test. To balance Tolleret's remarks, I've added my own, and given the wines my score (out of 20). Here's how they taste:
We began with the sauvignon blanc. Maybe it's because I've tasted too many of those oaky chardonnays filling the market, but I'm very receptive to sauvignon these days. This one is a winner. Tolleret describes the fruit as having "tart and rich aromas of pineapple, apricot and yellow flowers." I found it a delicious blend of citrus and exotic fruits. To accompany it, think shellfish and/or salads, or use liberally as an aperitif.
The chardonnay is similarly fresh, "with only a portion of the wine undergoing barrel fermentation." The aromas are "white fruits, pear and hazelnuts, with a touch of honey in the finish." It finishes long and ripe with hints of figs and vanilla. White meats and simple fish dishes were Tolleret's menu suggestions.
Merlot was the first red. Tolleret spoke again of the superb weather and its impact on the deep red color. "Black currants, raspberries and cherries" was his description of the nose. There are some green hints in the flavours of thyme and pine, but the wine is round and smooth on the palate. Fresh goat cheese seems appropriate with it, or perhaps grilled chicken.
The cabernet sauvignon is no less dark. Tolleret found "red candied fruits, leather and tobacco" on the nose and "a full-bodied earthiness on the palate." The finish is long and soft. Roasted dishes with grilled vegetables would work well with it.
The final red, a syrah, has been a favourite of mine for years, but in 1998, at $9.95 a bottle, it is magical. Tolleret calls the initial nose "a mix of candied fruits and licorice, followed by intense aroma of red fruit and leather." Look for lovely round, sweet fruit that is perfectly ripe in the mouth. This is one of the most sensuous Fortant reds tasted to date, and sure to be hit around the barbecue. A great partner for red meat (especially lamb), poultry and soft cheeses.
Along with prices for regular-size bottles, I've included prices for those available in magnums, and for two others (chardonnay and merlot) that meet the requirements to be deemed kosher.
Fortant de France
Vins de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France
Wine: 1998 Sauvignon Blanc
Price: $9.95 ($16.95 for 1.5 L)
Stock No.: 273235
Score: 15.5/20
Comment: Gobs of fresh, ripe tropical fruit.
Wine: 1998 Chardonnay
Price: $10.25
Stock No.: 256560
Score: 15/20
Comment: Enticing mix of pear, hazelnuts, honey. (Kosher label is 433185; $13.25)
Wine: 1997 Merlot
Price: $10.35 ($17.95 for 1.5 L)
Stock No.: 293969
Score: 14.5/20
Comment: Rich, round, red and smooth. (Kosher label is 433177; $13.25)
Wine: 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon
Price: $10.35
Stock No.: 218123
Score: 14/20
Comment: Full-flavoured red fruits, with touches of tobacco and leather.
Wine: 1998 Syrah
Price: $9.95
Stock No.: 271510
Score: 16/20
Comment: Magical, peppery fruit from the south of France.
Written By: ag
