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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Saturday, February 11 2012

There is a great deal of optimism that Bill C-311, a private member's bill pro-posed by Okanagan-Coquihalla MP Dan Albas, will eventually pass through Parliament and quash a 1920s ban on the inter-provincial movement of liquor.

For Personal Use Only

But will the provincial monopolies give up the hammer that easily?

Last December, federal MPs voted unanimously to support the bill, effectively amending the aforementioned and all-powerful Importation of Intoxicating Liquors Act (IILA) to allow individuals to import wine for their personal use. Casually transporting or ship-ping booze across provincial boundaries has been banned since the IILA was implemented in 1928.

 

Pressure to get a new deal for consumers comes from the mutual interest of Canadian wineries and their Canadian customers who want free and unfettered access to each other, as is the case for most other goods sold across the country. I have little to add to the argument. The law is stupid, and it's been outdated for decades, long before Canadian wine came to prominence. But wine is wine and I'm not sure the MPs responding to the Canadian wine industry and its customers understand all the ramifications lifting that ban will entail.

 

Canadians living in Ontario pay about half the tax of those living in British Columbia do on a bottle of wine bought in their government liquor stores. That is why the Antinori Santa Cristina Red sells for $12 in Toronto while the exact same bottle will cost you $17, or an extra $60 a case, here in British Columbia.

 

What does Italian wine have to do with B.C. wineries wanting to sell wine via the Inter-net to Canadians in Alberta or Ontario or Nova Scotia? Well, everything.

 

Each province makes a lot of money taxing and controlling the movement of alcohol, and as you can see by wine prices in B.C., we are particularly addicted to the alcohol revenue. They are not called monopolies for nothing. If the provinces waive their right to ban interprovincial wine sales to allow domestic producers to start selling wine across the country (not that there is anything wrong with that), how will they justify not allowing Canadian wine lovers to acquire any imported wine, such as the well-priced Antinori Cristina in Ontario, and having it shipped to their residence for personal use?

 

If you are wondering why the liquor monopolies are publicly saying nothing, this could be the reason.

They don't really care about the handful of cases that will be shipped into their provinces by Canadian wineries but they are terrified that they may have to compete with each other if provincial boundaries disappear and wine sales go the same route as books and computers and just about anything else you can buy online in this country.

 

There are dozens of private retail stores that would out-retail them in about 10 minutes if Bill C-311 passes and sub-sequent international trade agreements require Canada to treat foreign wine producers the same as domestic producers - not that there is anything wrong with that.

 

I can't wait for it to pass. If you want complete freedom of choice in Canada, let your MP know you feel the same way. In the meantime here are six picks to keep you interested until you can order them from your retailer of choice anywhere in the country and have them shipped direct to your home.

 

The Cono Sur Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2011, from the cool San Antonio Valley, is simply a terrific white made with organic grapes. The attack is juicy and vibrant with pungent, smoky jalapeno and passion fruit flavours. It has excellent concentration for the price; perfect for light seafood dishes.

 

Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Reserve de Vaudon 2010 is a delicious example of Chablis made with bio-dynamically grown fruit. This elegant Chardonnay with a touch of seashore and chalk on the nose is bright with fresh acidity and ripe apple fruit, and just enough complexity to draw you back to the next glass. Well done.

 

You will have fun sipping Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache Barossa 2009 with its red fruit and bits of plums, black licorice and savoury notes. The attack is similarly fresh with bits of pomegranate, currants and tannins. Lamb chops, pork ribs and or sausages will all work here.

 

It's always better to be elegant if you are a wine; it is especially true for Napa wines often rich in fruit and alcohol but not much else. Lola Kay Red 2009, named after the grandmothers of second generation Napa vintner Peter Rubissow, is a vineyard selection that displays a modicum of elegance with peppery, rich California fruit emanating from its unusual mix of mostly Merlot with Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. We applaud the price and the effort to get this into the Canadian market at an affordable level.

 

The Le Volte 2009 is classic super Tuscan with savoury black olive, black cherry aromas flecked with meaty, floral notes. The palate is suave and supple, but with light tannins. More black fruit and earthy cassis and peppery, black olive, orange peel, dried herb flavours mark the palate and finish. Balanced but with intensity. Try it with your favourite grilled meat or chicken dish.

 

Not many zinfandels listed in B.C. are worth drinking these days but the Clos du Val Zinfandel 2009 certainly is. Its peppery, smoky black cherry, licorice-root nose is attractive as is its fresh somewhat elegant palate awash in black berry, black olive, leather flavours. A restrained but elegant style that will work with food.

 


GOVERNMENT ONLY

 

Cono Sur Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Valle de San Antonio, Chile

Price: $13

UPC: 007804320348063

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Excellent concentration for the price, all in a cool, coastal style.

 

Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Reserve de Vaudon 2010, Chablis, Burgundy, France

Price: $29

UPC: 0012086322112

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Fresh and bright with fine acidity and ripe apple fruit.

 

Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache Barossa 2009, Barossa Valley, South Australia

Price: $25

UPC: 009311789081847

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Lamb chops, pork ribs and or sausages will all work here.

 

Lola Kay Red Wine 2009, Napa Valley, California, United States

Price: $27

UPC: 734804009302

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Peppery, rich California fruit, and we applaud the price.

 

Le Volte 2009, Tuscany, Italy

Price: $35

UPC: 00877397000421

Score: 90/100

Remarks: Black fruit, earthy cassis, black olive, orange peel and dried herbs.

 

Clos du Val Zinfandel 2009, Napa Valley, California, United States

Price: $35

UPC: 081761309120

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A restrained but elegant style of zinfandel for the dinner table.


Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Doors+wine+sales+could+open+wide/6138545/story.html#ixzz1p47hvmEm

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.