Fleur d’Aunis

This small town is close to the Dordogne River and about 70 kilometres from the city of Bordeaux.

Vineyards surround the fromagerie, so I guess it's sensible that they have created such a wine friendly cheese.

Fleur d'Aunis is a full-flavoured washed-rind cheese. The wheels are made with full-fat milk and are turned and rubbed with cultures five times during maturation.

The result is a semi-soft paste with small holes throughout, an orange-hued crust, and a slightly sticky texture.

Applying cultures to the crust, in a dry rub or brine wash, gives washed-rind cheeses their characteristic aroma. When you walk into a cheese store and smell something strong, that is definitely part of the overall perfume. Fleur d'Aunis has a powerful aroma, but like most washed-rind cheeses, the smell isn't really indicative of the flavour. The paste is supple with a rich texture and a fruity taste. The finish has just a little hint of bitterness, in just the right way.

What I love about this cheese is that you can serve it in so many ways. It's great with wines from the region, of course, but it is also great with a richer white or even a dessert wine. Washed rind cheeses are almost always a beautiful match with sweeter wines. Served with some dried fruit – the cheesemaker suggests muscat raisins – and a slice or two of sturdy bread, it is a cheese plate all on its own. Fleur d'Aunis also pairs well with stronger cheeses. If you are serving a selection of cheeses, it can be hard to get the mix just right. You don't want one cheese to overpower the others on the board, but if you like full flavoured cheese, Fleur d'Aunis served with a slice of Roquefort and an aged Comté makes a great mix for after dinner.

The cheese also has a good texture and taste for quiche or gratins. Adding it to cooked dishes brings out its rich, earthy flavours. Paired with sautéed leeks, baked into potato dishes, or used in other root vegetable preparations is my first thought. It is a little sticky to work with, but the effort is worthwhile.

Fleur d'Aunis should be readily found in Canada, maybe more in cheese stores than in larger grocery stores. It isn't for everyone, perhaps, but strong cheese fans will be happy with this introduction if they haven't met this tasty cheese yet.