Flavours of Italy

government liquor monopoly left a bitter taste in many mouths last month, not the least of them being the wine drinking community.

After nearly three years of uncertainty, downsizing and zero retail innovation, wine lovers are left to face more of the same in the foreseeable future.

Perhaps it's time consumers employ an old sporting maxim that states the best defence is a good offence. Clearly, wine drinkers need to be more proactive before the shelves become a sea of plonk.

The secret is to get to know your store manager, your in-store VQA advocate and if you are lucky enough to have one, the store's designated wine consultant. Make sure they know what it is you like to drink and that you would like to see more of those wines on the shelves.

If you didn't know, there is an unofficial list of wine-friendly stores (based on the amount wine they sell), beginning with the flagship specialty store at 39th and Cambie in Vancouver, and it includes various other designated specialty stores around the province.

Under the specialty stores there are two other groups of important wine stores, essentially ranked by their annual wine sales, but you'll need to figure out where they are on your own because there's no public list. That's where speaking to in-store personnel comes in handy. Most will be able to point you toward the biggest wine store in your neighbourhood.

Now that you know about the designated wine stores, be on the lookout for a Lower Mainland "Flavours of Italy" promotion this month orchestrated by the Italian Chamber of Commerce. Look for in-store thematic displays at the aforementioned designated wine stores featuring some 45 Italian labels.

Selection will vary from store to store and what's not on display could well be on the shelf in the Italian section so don't give up looking. Just keep an eye out for the Flavours of Italy displays.

On Dec. 1, the Italian Chamber of Commerce of British Columbia and Alberta is holding A Celebration of Italian Food & Wine at the Coast Plaza Hotel at 1733 Comox Street in Vancouver. The theme is meant to transport you to an evening in an Italian piazza. A fund-raising component with a raffle and auction is also be part of the event that features some 100 wines at the pre-dinner reception and an extravagant multi-course dinner put on by local Italian restaurants. For tickets, $95 for members or $125 for non-members, call 604-682-1410 or register online at www.iccbc.com.

Today's picks are all part of the Flavours of Italy promotion so look for them in participating B.C. Liquor stores.

We begin with the Tommasi Pinot Grigio Le Rosse 2001. Mineral flavours, crisp acidity and spice highlight this northern Italian white. It's clean, crisp and food friendly and would be perfect with pre-dinner crostini or main shellfish dishes. Ready to drink now.

The Ruffino Reserva Ducale Chianti Classico 1999 hails from an elegant Tuscan vintage. Different from the powerful '97s, the '99s are all about balance and style, with beautiful balance of fruit in the mouth. Flavours of cherries and almonds make this a highly enjoyable drink. At under $30 it's more than reasonable, given the skyrocketing prices throughout the district.

Experts agree the Cannonau grape came to Sardinia from Spain around the 15th Century, and most trace the variety to one called alicante or garnacha, parent of the French grenache. The Le Bombarde Cannonau di Sardegna 2001 is lighter in colour than its 2000 predecessor but it's bigger in flavour. Tasty ripe, sweet fruit streaked with black plum, licorice and peppery fruit mark the nose and palate. The textures are soft, round and supple with plenty of spicy, peppery, black cherry and smoke flavours. Well made and affordable.

Leone Rosso Toscana 2001, a wine first released in 1997, is a blend of sangiovese, merlot and canaiolo nero grapes, made under the Fattoria del Colle label by winemaker Donatella Cinelli Colombini. This is new-wave Italian elegance with cherry and vanilla and just a dusting of dry tannins for structure. Delicious and affordable given its pedigree.

Batasiolo Barbera d'Alba Sovrana 2001 is a single vineyard barbera made at Sovrana and selected for its intense fruit character and concentrated flavours. I liked the previous 2000 edition, but the '01 may be even better. The colour is dark and the nose awash in cherry fruit and tobacco. A touch less acidity, in contrast to most young Barbera, makes this oh-so drinkable with dinner.

Poggio alla Badiola 2001 is a Fonterutoli wine made and owned by the dynamic Mazzei family. The style of this sangiovese-based red is totally modern with licorice cherry and vanilla flavours throughout. The fruit is ripe, the acidity bright and the American oak/vanilla finish inviting. A solid effort it should improve another three to five years in bottle.

Sun wine columnist Anthony Gismondi is also co-host of The Best of Food and Wine, which airs at noon each Saturday on CFUN 1410 AM.

WEEKEND WINE TASTING: A SELECTION FROM ITALY

Wine: Tommasi Pinot Grigio Le Rosse 2001, Valdadige, Veneto
Price: $19.95
UPC: 8004645365106
Score: 14/20
Comments: Look for a lean, clean, crisp food-friendly white.

Wine: Ruffino Reserva Ducale Chianti Classico 1999, Tuscany
Price: $28.99
UPC: 8001660109753
Score: 16.5/20
Comments: Aromas and flavours of cherries and almonds.

Wine: Le Bombarde Cannonau di Sardegna 2001, Sardinia
Price: $13.95
UPC: 8001487001148
Score: 15/20
Comments: Tasty ripe, sweet fruit streaked with black plum, licorice, and peppery fruit.

Wine: Leone Rosso Toscana 2001, Tuscany
Price: $24.95
UPC: 8026965601139
Score: 15.5/20
Comments: New Wave Italian elegance with cherry and vanilla and a dusting of tannin.

Wine: Batasiolo Barbera d'Alba Sovrana 2001, Piedmont
Price: $23.95
UPC: 632738100143
Score: 15.5/20
Comments: An oh so drinkable barbera perfect for meat or ripe cheeses.

Wine: Poggio alla Badiola 2001, Tuscany
Price: $25.95
UPC: 8016118241992
Score: 16/20
Comments: Ripe fruit featuring licorice cherry and vanilla flavours.