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Fire and ice are two words you could use to describe the year Okanagan Valley wine producers have experienced, although most would prefer to use the more important descriptor -- quality.
Despite the smoke and life-threatening fires, the 2003 harvest has been an excellent one for most growers and early bets are the wine will be above average.
Not everyone escaped the late summer firestorms. St. Hubertus suffered both property and vineyard damage due to the fire and whatever grapes survived the blaze, most are suffering from smoke damage.
Nearby CedarCreek is experiencing similar smoke problems, with some of its grapes (the smoke flavour has appeared primarily in the red wines) having fermented on the skins. It is the skin where the ash and smoke residue of the fire resides. At this point, winemaker Tom DiBello isn't sure if the smoke flavouring can be removed but he has some resources at his disposal and a year or two to work the wine.
Perhaps the hardest hit vineyard is East Kelowna's Pinot Reach. There, the grapes were surrounded by intense smoke for three weeks and, as it stands now, the 2003 crop will not be used to make wine.
Just as the smoke appeared to lift, winter arrived as early as any one could remember. Temperatures hovered around -10C early last Wednesday morning and crews across the valley began harvesting grapes for icewine.
At Tinhorn Creek, the Kerner icewine picked last week is the first since 2000 and the earliest the winery has ever picked icewine grapes.
To make icewine, not only must the temperature be below -8C when the grapes are picked, they must be pressed at the same minimum temperature and the sugar level of the must, or newly-pressed fruit, needs to register at least 35 brix. The grapes pressed last Wednesday registered an outstanding 47 brix.
"The fruit is beautiful!" said winemaker, Sandra Oldfield. "By picking this early in November, the fruit is in exceptional shape. It promises to be a great icewine."
At Mission Hill, there were also a number of firsts involved in the overnight riesling harvest. It, too, was the winery's earliest icewine harvest on record, the first at its Oliver Vineyard Estate and the winery's first icewine harvest since 2001.
Winemaker John Simes said he began monitoring the vineyard climate at dusk as he observed a temperature swing from 4C to -3C over a one-hour period.
By 11:30 p.m., it had dropped to nearly -8C and he began the 1 1/2-hour drive from his Kelowna home to Oliver. Picking began at 2:30 a.m.. At that point, the temperature was -10.5C. By the time they finished, it was almost -12C in the coldest part of the vineyard block.
"The fruit we picked is brilliant," said Simes. "Because it's so early in the season, it's fresh and bursting with flavour." In fact, Simes and his team finished picking its table wine grapes from the Oliver Vineyard Estate just 14 days ago.
Fire and ice all in one season, and high quality. It brings new meaning to growing grapes on the edge in B.C.'s marginal cool climate.
Here's a look at some new releases from three British Columbia wineries. Most are available in VQA wine shops; others in selected government stores.
The Gray Monk Pinot Gris 2002 is softer and creamier in '02, offering up fresh lime rind and rhubarb purée notes on the nose. The flavours are similar with a sweet fruit yet crisp finish. A simple, easy-drinking, pre-dinner apéritif style white that will appeal to a wide audience.
See Ya Later Ranch Pinot Gris 2002 is made by Hawthorne Mountain Wines and in fact is the replacement label for the old Gold Label Series. It is 50-per-cent aged in mostly new oak for nine months; the balance remains in stainless steel. Clean mineral streaks on the nose dissolve into an oily texture and smooth finish. There's some weight and mouth feel but it finishes bitter. Too much wood and not enough fruit.
The top-of-the-line, limited production Gehringer Brothers Pinot Gris Optimum 2002 has an open citrus mineral aroma with green-apple skin and lime rind notes. Good intensity and weight and very refreshing on the palate. This is juicy pinot gris that is well worth investigating.
Open sweet floral fruit and mineral aromas mark the nose of the Gray Monk Chardonnay Unwooded 2002. The entry is soft and slightly sweet with lime rind, red apple and mineral flavours. The finish is sweet and sour. Best served cool with Asian food.
The Gehringer Brothers Pinot Noir Optimum 2000 is ultra soft on entry with a wisp of black cherry fruit. The texture melts way on your palate leaving you wanting a bit more fruit and heft for the price. Solid but not nearly as impressive as the previous edition.
See Ya Later Ranch Pinot Noir 2002 is a soft simple style pinot with 15-per-cent lemberger fruit added to presumably boost the colour and fruit. It's soft and round on entry but there is little varietal definition and just as little length. This is simple pinot at best and one whose design and package is better than its content.
Sun wine columnist Anthony Gismondi is also co-host of The Best of Food and Wine, which airs at noon each Saturday on CFUN 1410 AM.
WEEKEND WINE TASTING:
Gehringer Brothers / Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards / Gray Monk Cellars, Okanagan Valley, B.C.
Wine: Gray Monk Pinot Gris 2002
Price: $13.99
UPC: 778829000029
Score: 14/20
Comments: Fresh lime rind and rhubarb purée.
Wine: See Ya Later Ranch Pinot Gris 2002
Price: $18.99 (VQA wine stores)
UPC: 624738011051
Score: 13/20
Comments: Flat in the mouth with oily textures.
Wine: Gehringer Brothers Pinot Gris Optimum 2002
Price: $19.99 (VQA wine stores)
UPC: 623871020085
Score: 15.5/20
Comments: Juicy/refreshing pinot gris.
Wine: Gray Monk Chardonnay Unwooded 2002
Price: $14.99
UPC: 778829000258
Score: 14/20
Comments: Slightly sweet with lime rind and mineral flavours.
Wine: Gehringer Brothers Pinot Noir Optimum 2000
Price: $19.99 (VQA wine stores)
UPC: 623871020092
Score: 15/20
Comments: Ultra soft with a wisp of black cherry fruit.
Wine: See Ya Later Ranch Pinot Noir 2002
Price: $19.99 (VQA wine stores)
UPC: 624738011451
Score: 14/20
Comments: Soft round and simple.
