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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

91 Tantalus Old Vines Riesling 2008 Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaBC $30.00 specialty listingOld Vines is the definition of iconoclastic.

91 Tantalus Old Vines Riesling 2008
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $30.00 specialty listing
Old Vines is the definition of iconoclastic. Freethinking and individualistic, the fruit (essentially grown organically) comes off a single block planted in 1978. Expect super intense aromas of lime and lemon preview a palate that is equally intense offering up peachy stone fruit characters all with an incredible undercurrent of acidity. This wine will live forever but in the meantime you can drink it with just about any food just for fun. Stock up. (AG-ST)

 

90 Moon Curser Afraid of the Dark 2010 Viognier - Roussanne - Marsanne
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $22.00 winery direct
This is all-Osoyoos grown fruit that may surprise those who regularly suggest it's too hot to make white wine in the south. Each of the three varieties is fermented separately before blending but there is no oak in the mix, yeah! Viognier marsanne and roussanne signal a tight Rhone-style blend and despite its name - Afraid of the Dark, it is a white wine to die for. We love its fresh, peachy, ginger/nectarine aromas and fruit. The palate is equally intense and electric. Well done again. Don't be afraid of the packaging but be forewarned the wine is far more serious than it looks. (AG-ST)

90 Nk'Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Syrah 2008
Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $35.00 winery direct
The '08 is a fine upgrade in the previous edition adding riper fruit to an intoxicating mix of savoury, peppery, black fruit aromas. The attack is dry and rich with savoury, liquorice, dried herb and black cherry fruit. We love the balance here and the sweet tannins that make the difference in the finish. Roast lamb anyone? (AG-ST)

90 Pentâge Winery Viognier 2009
Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $19.50 winery direct, private wine shops
Floral, butter, ginger, lees, honeysuckle, nectarine aromas. Round, fresh, soft palate with honey, butter, lees, ginger, baked pear, orange peel flavours. Good solid styling in a buttery style that you can drink now. Super clean and fresh under screwcap. Love the new low price too. (AG-ST)

90 Quails' Gate Pinot Noir Dijon Clone Selection 2008
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $55.00 winery direct
A Dijon (Burgundy) clone selection, now over a decade old, is behind this new, only available at the winery (and restaurants) release. This no trophy wine but rather the result of 20 years of searching for the holy pinot grail. Expect a spicy, celery salt, rhubarb and ripe strawberry nose with flecks of tobacco leaf, dried herbs and barnyard. The attack is dry, fresh and supple with strawberry, smoky, herbal, rhubarb, tobacco, lees, and spicy, minty, vanilla flavours. Good finesse with fresh acidity and a juicy note. Best if decanted for about 15 minutes. Drink now or over the next 2 years. Duck confit would be a perfect match. (AG-ST)

90 Stoneboat Vineyards Pinot Blanc VLH 2008
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $24.00 (375 ml) winery direct
Honey, citrus, ripe pear, butter, green apple and floral aromas. Ripe, sweet but fresh palate with moderate acidity. Clean, baked pear, honey, lime, butter, quince and apple flavours. Good delicacy and fruit flavours without being too heavy. Ready to drink now - 2 years. (AG-ST)

89 Burrowing Owl Athene 2009 Syrah - Cabernet Sauvignon
Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $35.00 winery direct
Meaty, spicy, black cherry, cassis, green bean, olive, tobacco, vanilla, floral and riparian aromas. Full, round, dry, fresh palate with some tannin. Sour cherry, meaty, peppery, smoky oak, vanilla, coffee, cassis, olive, savoury, herb and liquorice flavours. Solid balance with some fruit and intensity but needs a year or two to soften the light, cedar-y tannins on the finish. (AG-ST)

89 Herder Estate Pinot Noir Estate 2009
Keremeos, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $35.00 winery direct, winery online
Liquorice, spicy, black cherry, vanilla, compost, tobacco, barnyard, light lees aromas. Round, dry, fresh, elegant palate with very light tannins and a chalky texture. Warm with strawberry, rhubarb, peppery, celery, worsteshire, smoky, vanilla, coffee, rooty, meaty, herbal flavours. Finish has some heat and youthful tannins to shed. Good effort but needs a year or so to round out. (AG-ST)


89 Mission Hill Chardonnay Reserve 2010
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $20.00 specialty listing, AB $20.00 private wine stores, MB $20.00, ON $20.00, QC $20.00, SK $20.00
Honey, light butter, floral, vanilla, spicy lees nose with baked green apple, grapefruit and pea skin aromas. Fresh, juicy, round, elegant entry on the light side with an austere edge. Grassy, grapefruit, honey, nutty lees, spicy, butter, vanilla, quince and pear flavours. A very solid, fresher style with some structure and a lighter mid-palate. Drink now and over the next year or so with a variety of seafood. (AG-ST)

89 Meyer Family Vineyards Pinot Noir McLean Creek Road Vineyard - OK Falls 2010
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $40.00 winery direct
Big celery salt, thyme, savoury, barnyard, lees, rhubarb, light cherry and tobacco leaf aroma. Fresh, juicy, elegant, tight palate with some light, gritty tannin. Vanilla, raspberry jam, rhubarb, compost, tobacco, barnyard, saddle leather flavours with a savoury, tea finish. Good effort and youthful, should improve over the next few years and soften the residual tannins. (AG-ST)

89 Painted Rock Red Icon 2009 Merlot - Malbec - Cabernet Franc - Petit Verdot
Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $55.00 winery direct, private wine shops
Big espresso, chocolate, cedar, vanilla, prune, tobacco, liquorice, resin, savoury aromas with a bit of cherry jam and cranberry. Dry, fresh, somewhat tart entry with light, grainy tannins. Intense vanilla, cedar, smoky coffee, chocolate, resin, licorice, meaty, tobacco, prune and tobacco leaf flavours. Finish is very warm and oaky. This needs at least five years to better integrate in bottle but that said we would love to see this blend back off the new oak and add a bit of fruitiness and terroir. (AG-ST)

89 Rollingdale Merlot Le Droit 2008
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
BC $30.00 winery direct
Tobacco, spicy, black olive, cherry, plum, light floral and barnyard aromas. Smooth, round, supple and elegant palate with plum, carrot top, tobacco, earthy, spicy, vanilla, meaty flavours with a touch of barnyard and cedar. A very feminine style without big extraction but solid fruit. A big step forward in style and quality. Drink now or keep for 2-4 years. (AG-ST)

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.