Fearless Consumers Embrace the Rhone

Drought, consolidation, the dumb-it-down factor and sweet-tasting, high-alcohol wines are tiring out New World drinkers, in effect driving them right back into the hands of the French.

In the right place at the right time are Rhone Valley producers where, according to the folks at Sopexa Canada, some 16 per cent of winemakers are under 35 years old, or three per cent more than the national average.

Youth could be a factor but so too is size and pricing. The Rhone is a sleeping giant when you consider its girth. With 76,700 hectares of vines (more than 20 times what is planted in B.C.) and 8,000 wineries, annual production is about 42 million cases a year. Yearly sales figures now exceed a billion euros (or about 10 times local VQA revenue) and that spells value.

Not surprisingly, Canada makes up the fifth largest market for Côtes du Rhône in the world. British Columbia has always had a love affair with the Rhone, dating back to the early '80s when Hermitage and Cote Rôtie producers Jaboulet and Guigal ruled the shelves in BCLDB stores. Today a much broader selection includes the forerunners as well as Perrin, Chapoutier, La Nerthe, Ogier and Vieux Lazaret and many more.

Our focus today is on the reds of two main appellations: Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages.

The regional Côtes du Rhône appellation surrounds both banks of the Rhône between Vienne, Valence and Avignon. Over the years, several changes have seen the regional Côtes du Rhône appellation extend to more than 171 communes in six departments (Ardèche, Gard, Loire, Rhône and Vaucluse). The basic permitted yield for the appellation is a very low 41 hectolitres per hectare.

The Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC is made up of 95 communes and extends over four departments of the southern Côtes du Rhône: Ardèche, Drôme, Gard and Vaucluse. Of the 95 communes, 18 are recognized for their distinctive character and are allowed to state the name of the village (Communaux) where they are produced on the label. More than 5,219 hectares are devoted to single-village Communaux wines whereas the blended Côtes du Rhône Villages cover an area of 2,671 hectares, for a total of 7,890 hectares under vine.

As for what's in the blend -- Côtes du Rhône Villages reds must contain a minimum 50 per cent grenache, with another 20 per cent syrah or mourvèdre before any other grape varieties are allowed. In the regular Côtes du Rhône, red grenache must represent at least 40 per cent of the blend with the exception of wines produced in the northern Rhône made from syrah.

So what's the attraction for the modern wine drinker? Well, we know they like red wine; anything with syrah in it is a no-brainer. And, as mentioned on more than one occasion, seasoned wine drinkers almost always move from sweet, to off-dry, to dry as their palates mature -- and that means there is a large audience ready to move in North America.

Ironically, our love affair with varietal wine gives us a fearless mentality about grapes in general, so blends boasting cinsault or mourvèdre are no longer scary. With so many choices under $20, and acidity and alcohol that work well with food, it all adds up to opportunity for the French should they have the will to compete in savvy markets. Judging by the numbers in B.C. it's happening.

Wine sales jumped an impressive 12.3 per cent in the year ending November 2007. French wine sales performed even better, soaring 16.5 per cent.

First up is the Ortas Tradition Rasteau Côtes du Rhone Villages 2005, a grenache, syrah, mourvèdre blend with dry earthy, black cherry, spicy, compost and peppery flavours. Still fairly youthful, it will only get better in the bottle.

You will have to hunt for the Saint-Cosme Côtes du Rhone 2006 in private wine stores but it's worth it. This grenache-syrah is an elegant expression of the Rhone with its peppery, licorice, garrigue, chocolate, black cherry, orange, five spice flavours. Fine intensity and value.

You may not be familiar with Domaine de la Grand'Ribe Côtes du Rhône Cuvée Tradition Vieilles Vignes 2004 but this grenache-syrah blend is worth checking out. Look for freshly ground pepper, spicy, meaty, dark plum and smoky flavours with bits of chocolate on the finish. It's made from 45-year-old vines that are certified 100-per-cent organic.

The Réserve Perrin Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2005 mixes grenache, shiraz, mourvèdre and cinsault into a spicy, meaty, peppery, chocolate, black cherry red. A chunky style, cassoulet, slow-cooked meat wine.

One of the old guard is the Guigal Côtes du Rhone 2003. Here the mix is syrah, grenache and carignan and style is lean and tight.

Dry, round and elegant, if a bit skinny, it needs roasted meat or fowl to really show its mettle.

Our tour wraps up with a food-friendly grenache, syrah, mourvèdre blend Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine Lirac 2004 and its typical peppery, black raspberry, floral fruit with spicy, licorice root flavours and a touch of garrigue. Serve with roast lamb.

Price: $20

UPC: 664605315046

Score: 86/100

Remarks: A simple ode to grenache, syrah and mourvèdre.

DOMAINE DE LA GRAND'RIBE CÔTES DU RHÔNE CUVÉE TRADITION VIEILLES VIGNES 2004

Price: $20

UPC: 626990065302

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Good concentration and value, certified 100-per-cent organic.

SAINT-COSME CÔTES DU RHONE 2006

Price: $20, private wine shops

UPC: 3483812150069

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Black cherry, orange, five spice flavours. Fine intensity and value.

RÉSERVE PERRIN CÔTES DU RHÔNE ROUGE 2005

Price: $18

UPC: 631470000131

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Peppery, smoky, meaty, dark chocolate, black cherry, rooty flavours.

GUIGAL CÔTES DU RHONE 2003

Price: $24

UPC: 03536650501002

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Dry, round and elegant if a bit skinny for the price.

DOMAINE LAFOND

ROC-EPINE LIRAC 2004

Price: $23

UPC: 00785255000042

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Peppery, black raspberry, floral, spicy, licorice root flavours.