Fabulous Fizz

The king of bubbles begins its life like most other wine. The grapes are pressed and fermented in large stainless steel vats, occasionally some go into oak barrels, but either way the process produces a standard, albeit high-acid, still wine.

After that primary fermentation the winemaker blends all the base or still wines, in essence mixing grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier), vineyards and, more often than not, different vintages to create his or her nonvintage blend.

The final mix is placed inside thick-walled champagne bottles along with the liqueur de tirage, a small mixture of sugar and yeast, and often with a percentage of reserve or older wine. The bottle is then closed with a crown cap and laid to rest underground in a cool, dark cellar.

Over the next 90 days the sugar and the yeast spontaneously re-ferment inside the bottle. The mini fermentation works just like the big ones in tanks or barrels, except this time most of the byproducts are trapped inside the bottle. The heat dissipates through the glass, the dead yeast cells (a.k.a. lees) fall to the bottom of the bottle where they continue to "feed" the wine, and the carbon dioxide (the bubbles) dissolves back into the liquid while the sugar is converted to an extra degree of alcohol.

It's the long, slow, second fermentation that creates the tiny bubbles so much a trademark of champagne. Once complete, the champagne remains in the bottle for another two to three years.

As time passes the effect of the lees trapped inside the bottle keeps the wine fresh and helps to shape the eventual creamy textures of the wine.

Just before shipping, the remaining yeast deposit is coaxed into the neck of the bottle using a process called remuage or riddling. It takes an average of eight weeks by hand, or eight days by machine. Once settled on the bottom side of the cap, the sediment is removed by immersing the inverted bottle of champagne in a few centimetres of ice-cold brine that freezes the deposit into a block of ice.

The crown cap is then removed and the frozen plug is propelled out of the bottle by the pressure of the carbon dioxide gas inside the bottle, taking the sediment with it. At this point the bottle is topped up with the liqueur d'expédition, often a small amount of sugar dissolved in wine, before the final cork is inserted in the bottle.

The highly labour-intensive méthode champenoise or (champagne method) is the reason why champagne is such a high-quality product and ultimately why it costs more than any other sparkling wine.

Of note is a movement by many producers to describe these sparkling jewels for what they are: multi-vintage, multiblended wines in effect properly conveying that they contain different grapes, from scores of vineyards that, more often than not, contain one or more years of reserve wine.

On the eve of the new year, I wanted to share with you six affordable non-vintage brut champagnes you should consider if you are celebrating with friends.

The Lanson Black Label Brut Pinot N/V doesn't get a lot of respect, but its pale, yellow colour belies a mature, toasty-style sparkler with bits of brioche, honey, light garlic, baked pear, citrus and apple aromas. Fresh and elegant, the attack is tight and dry, but with fine acidity. It is easy to sip the nutty, baked apple, lemon, pear and butter flavours. Best before dinner with cheese straws or smoked salmon and crème fresh.

We like the change in G.H. Mumm Brut Cordon Rouge N/V. The nose is a fresh, open affair of spicy, baked pear, honey, baked apple and citrus. The attack is creamy but with good acidity and medium sweetness for a brut. The flavours are clean and tasty with toast, marzipan, brioche, honey, citrus, baked pear and apple flavours. It's a lighter style, but with juicy flavours and balance throughout. It has a style that will appeal to almost everyone.

One of the most consistent bruts in the market is the Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Premier Cru Reserve Particulière. Its refined mousse with fresh floral, citrus, nutty, baked apple with light cherry aromas with citrus, green apple skin and hazelnut flavours will entice. The finesse and balance of its style will work with almost any food you can think to serve.

Perhaps my favourite blend brut is the Louis Roederer Brut Premier N/V, from its toasted, rich brioche and creamy, baked apple and strawberry nose to its fresh, crisp, juicy palate and baked pear, lemon, quince, honey, marzipan flavours. So elegant and structured with a slightly austere finish, its strength is flavour concentration and length.

The de Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut Sélect N/V is another stylish brut built along green apple, honey, mineral, citrus, and buttery aromas. It is a medium brut by sweetness but the palate is crisp with creamy mousse and persistence, and plenty of cherry, baked Granny Smith apples, honey and anise flavours with a whiff of seashore. Again, there's finesse and flavour concentration with structure and length. Made for cheese.

Our last pick is the Perrier - Jouët Grand Brut N/V. The style is surprisingly austere given its mainstream marketing approach. Expect a fresh, crisp, medium-weight palate with fine mousse and a juicy edge that previews its marzipan, baked pear, citrus peel and green apple flavours with fine acidity. Try this with ovenwarmed cheese twists.

Lanson Black Label Brut N/V, Champagne, France

Price: $55

UPC: 692743002863

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Nutty, toasty, baked apple, lemon, earthy, pear and butter flavours.

G.H. Mumm Brut Cordon Rouge N/V, Champagne, France

Price: $60

UPC: 633438103816

Score: 90/100

Remarks: A lighter style but with fine flavour and balance.

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Premier Cru Réserve Particulière N/V, Champagne, France

Price: $60

UPC: 3282946006835

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Good finesse and balance make it perfect with food.

Louis Roederer Brut Premier N/V, Champagne, France

Price: $63

UPC: 3114080016053

Score: 92/100

Remarks: Fresh, crisp, juicy palate with medium brut sweetness.

de Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut Sélect N/V, Champagne, France

Price: $63

UPC: 03291690500018

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Citrus, cherry, baked Granny Smith, honey, spicy, anise flavours.

Perrier - Jouët Grand Brut N/V, Champagne, France

Price: $67

UPC: 00633438300109

Score: 91/100

Remarks: Baked pear, citrus peel, green apple flavours with a touch of honey.

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