Ever Changing Palates

The hefty red accounts for 17.5 per cent of the most popular wines in restaurants, but more interesting is news that pinot noir has jumped to the number two position, at 15.2 per cent. This has pushed the ever-popular chardonnay from first to third place on lists for the first time ever.

Now, I'm guessing chardonnay grape growers are not panicking yet, but these polls have a way of influencing the future or at least those people whose job it is to look ahead a few years.

We have talked a great deal on these pages about a new style of chardonnay, that comes with less oak, subdued but clean fruit, from cooler sites, etc. It's not really Burgundian, but it is heading in that French, understated direction.

As the chardonnay numbers slide, it's a style that will lead the comeback.

In the meantime the moves to cabernet and pinot noir signal a willingness by American consumers to step outside their comfort zone and are a major coup for the wine business.

Pinot noir is now in very short supply and pricier than ever. Yet despite the current demand, it probably will be surpassed by other grapes as consumers become more curious.

I have suggested wineries study the B.C. market for years, because consumers here have the curious wine gene and it has set off an unstoppable interest that constantly redefines and retools their palates. What used to take a generation of learning is now compressed into three to five years and repeated several more times in a life.

From white to red and back to white, it is a frenzy. To shiraz and then pinot noir and now riesling, a dash of viognier and then to the "new chardonnay" over to carmenere, petite verdot, petit syrah, all the while sharpening your senses and tuning your palate.

Today we continue the search with sangiovese, carmenere and tempranillo to name but a few.

In a cooler year like '05, the Antinori Santa Christina Sangiovese 2005 is more floral, more acidic and more vibrant in the glass. The style is definitely evolving under winemaker Renzo Cotarella. Look for a fragrant red with bright cherry, plum and licorice root flavours -- all with a touch of chocolate. The smoother finish is courtesy of a touch of merlot. Best of all, with fruit from Cortona, Bolgheri and Montepulciano it tastes Tuscan. Perfect for roast chicken or spaghetti Bolognese. Solid value and like many Antinori wines very much improved over the last five years.

The latest Trio Merlot-Carmenere-Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 is merlot dominated that helps to shape its smooth, soft edge. The carmenere and cabernet add leafy tobacco notes and cherry/cassis flavours. It's a warm, soft red with plenty of a spicy black currant and coffee notes in the finish. It should improve in the bottle over the next 18 months. Think grilled meats off the barbecue to best enjoy it now.

Novas Carmenere Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 is pretty straightforward stuff, but it comes with an organic tag. A soft, approachable red wine, it blends carmenere and cabernet sauvignon from a certified organic vineyard. The flavours are a mix of earth, chocolate and mint with a dash of raspberry and some gripp-y tannin in the finish. A solid mid-week red to accompany rustic stews and casseroles or perhaps even better with hamburgers off the barbecue.

Old vines (25 years) are the heart of Arrocal Ribera del Duero 2004. This is rich, mouth-filling red from Ribera Del Duero where the tempranillo frame is richer and the textures heavier. Flecks of vanilla, pepper and a dollop of alcohol give a New World feel to its berry fruit flavours, but the dryness and the acidity leave it firmly grounded in the Old World. Drink now, or over the next five years. Good value.

Elegance is the best descriptor for Montecillo Reserva 2000 from Rioja. The nose is fragrant, mixing floral tones with strawberry fruit. The palate is fresh with firm acidity and more dried fruit flavours. Roasted meats or fowl would be the ticket here. A stylish red wine well worth investigating if you have had enough of those blockbuster reds.

Ostatu Crianza Rioja Alavesa 2003 is delicious stuff. Rich and packed full of fruit, yet dry with Euro sophistication. I love the spicy, plummy, black fruit flecked with licorice, vanilla and tobacco. There are still some gripp-y tannins in the finish that will take two to three years to disperse. Lamb chops will work here or you could choose to lay this one down for a few years.

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ANTINORI SANTA CHRISTINA SANGIOVESE 2005, TUSCANY, ITALY
Price: $15.07
UPC: 08001935361404
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Bright cherry, plum and licorice root flavours -- all with touch of chocolate.

TRIO MERLOT CARMENERE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, VALLE DEL RAPEL, CHILE
Price: $16.98
UPC: 07804320143958
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Spicy black currant and coffee notes.

NOVAS CARMENERE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2004, VALLE DEL COLCHAGUA, CHILE
Price: $16.99
UPC: 7804320081335
Score: 87/100
Remarks: A soft approachable red wine, certified organic.

ARROCAL RIBERA DEL DUERO 2004, RIBERA DEL DUERO, CASTILLA-LEON, SPAIN
Price: $21.99
UPC: 08437005780002
Score: 90/100
Remarks: The tempranillo frame is richer with pretty flecks of vanilla and pepper.

MONTECILLO RESERVA 2000, RIOJA, SPAIN
Price: $23.90
UPC: 022851208015
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Fragrant, floral tones with strawberry fruit.

OSTATU CRIANZA RIOJA ALAVESA 2003, RIOJA ALAVESA, RIOJA, SPAIN
Price: $24.77
UPC: 08437002355142
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Delicious stuff packed full of fruit, yet dry with Euro sophistication.