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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

The wine business is full of the arcane and the unrelated, which is probably why wine is so appealing to such a broad spectrum of drinkers.

Events Around the Wine World

This week, we look at several unrelated events that make the wine world go around ... incessantly.

 

Let's begin in Portugal, on St. George's Day where The Fladgate Partnership, made up of three of the Douro's most well-known port houses, Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca and Croft, declared that 2011 will be a Vintage Port year for all three. The 2011 declaration is the fifth such vintage to be declared in the last 13 years by the group, joining 2009, 2007, 2003 and 2000. It is expected that 2011 will be declared by a majority of producers in the region.

 

Fortified wine or port remains a niche market in the most of the world, but by comparison to what is going on in Bordeaux and Burgundy, it remains a relative bargain given the price it commands. What's unique about vintage port is that producers don't make it every year, and by only choosing the very best lots in the very best years, consumers are pretty much guaranteed what they buy is top flight in all aspects. It also ages forever, lending it even more credence as a terrific wine to have in the cellar.

 

Port prices have been relatively stable over the decades, growing slowly since the 1980s but any interest from the Far East could easily tip the balance in favour of producers given the small amounts made.

 

One guy who could tip the balance is Chinese billionaire Peter Tseng, said to be the owner of a wine cellar worth $60 million. Tseng, who made his money in sex toys, is featured in the documentary Red Obsession that looks at the waning influence of American and U.K. buyers in the Bordeaux market versus the rise of the Asian buyer.

Sensational or not, Chinese billionaires are having a large impact on fine wine prices globally, and if you don't think that effects what you pay for other much cheaper wines, think again. No price gap is ever left empty for long in the wine business.

 

Meanwhile back on the farms, I'm excited to report the results of the first ever triple O tasting in the south Okanagan. If you were thinking hamburgers, think again. I'm talking about the Oliver Osoyoos Oyster Festival wine pairing competition. The event was held last weekend at the Walnut Beach Resort. Organizers gave due credit to the American Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition, created by Jon Rowley of Seattle's Taylor Shellfish Farms, before suggesting it was time for our own homegrown event.

 

We have some fabulous oysters in Canada and obviously a lot of wineries agreed entering a staggering 82 Canadian wines into various wine categories. The competition also included a Wild Card category where any alcoholic beverage produced with 100 per cent Canadian product had the opportunity to enter.

 

The winners by category at the inaugural competition were: Pinot Blanc - Kraze Legz Estate Winery 2012; Un-Oaked Chardonnay --Poplar Grove Winery 2011; Oaked Chardonnay - Upper Bench Estate Winery 2011; Riesling - Intrigue Wines, Focus Riesling 2012; Pinot Gris - Blue Mountain Vineyards 2011; Sauvignon Blanc - Bench 1775 2011; Sparkling: Haywire The Bub 2011; and the Wild Card went to Cherry Point Estate Winery Gewürztraminer 2011.

 

The judges also selected a Best of Show winner from all entries which was awarded to Blue Mountain Vineyards 2011. For more information on the festival visit oooysterfestival.com. Finally a fascinating story from the Press Democrat in Santa Rosa, Sonoma County that suggests your dinner time telemarketing calls are about to get a whole lot more interesting. According to VinoPro, a Santa Rosa wine telemarking company, their sales topped $8 million in revenue last year. Sales have jumped 1,800 per cent over the last three years.

 

Chinese billionaires notwithstanding, it seems, post wine recession, many customers are fixated on value wines only and with less direct sales at wineries, telemarketing has become another channel to move wine. They claim to sell a lot of wine in the late afternoon and evening when wineries are understaffed or closed. They are even selling wine club memberships. So the next time that phone rings during dinner, it may not be about the newspaper or your cellphone plan, it may be about something much more sociable.

 


Aveleda Vinho Verde 2012, Portugal

Price      $14 Everything Wine only

UPC       5601096213333

Score    87/100

Remarks              Dry Vinho Verde is the antidote to the moscato and sweet rosé craze. Fresh and alive with a hint of spritz you can revel in it ethereal floral, citrus, green apple and green peach nose. On the palate it's delicate, watery, juicy style sports apple, nectarine, grassy, floral, lime flavours. A respite from all things heavy this juicy, stylish dry white is tailor made for summer seafood and salads. Solid value here.

 

La Casona de Castaño Old Vines Monastrell 2011, Yecla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain

Price      $10

UPC       8422443002519

Score    85/100

Remarks              This wine has a tendency to fluctuate from solid to good. This year it is solid with floral, peppery, black cherry, cedar aromas. Dry, round and slightly hard on the attack it recovers with black cherry, earthy, peppery, cedar, smoky herb flavours. Simple, varietal and well-made for pizza and barbecue. Hard to beat for the price.

 

Painted Wolf The Den Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Coastal Region, South Africa

Price      $15

UPC       006009801066073

Score    85/100

Remarks              Interesting old style cabernet that still has an audience in BC.  Look for spicy, savoury, cassis, tobacco leaf, herbal, smoked meat aromas to preview a dry, somewhat tart palate with light tannins. The flavours mix coffee, cherry, stewed rhubarb, smoked meat, menthol and tobacco with a slightly herbal finish. Fire up the barbecue and serve with hamburgers.

 

Purato Nero d'Avola Organic 2011, Sicily, Italy

Price      $17

UPC       008034115190747

Score    87/100

Remarks              A solid organic offering with an aromatic menthol, strawberry jam, peppery, savoury, red liquorice nose. The attack is fresh and lean with more strawberry, orange peel, savoury, minty, liquorice flavours. A forward, fresh style that is ready to drink. Serve with fowl and meat dishes. Solid value.

 

 

Clos Pons Alges 2009, Costers del Segre, Catalunya, Spain

Price    $27

UPC     8429671400001

Score 89/100

Remarks        Low rainfall poor soils with high mineral content spawn this earthy, smokey, resiny garrigue scented nose. Fresh and juicy with light tannins and delicious black cherry, plum, savoury, peppery, fig, smoky, liquorice flavours. You will love the fruit concentration and blanace that lets you approach this wine now althought it will imporve with one to two years more in bottle. Try this lamb chops. Fine value.

 

 

Ramos Pinto Porto RP20 Quinta de Bom Retiro 20 Year Old Tawny N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal


 

Price $68

UCp 5601332000802

93/100

Remarks       Ramos Pinto is famous for a making a mix of single-quinta ports in essence expressing the singularity of each site. The Tawny comes off serveral blocks from one of the oldest vineyards in the Douro region, Quinta do Bom Retiro. The blend averages 20 years and you can see it the moment you pour the pale tawny red/orange liquid into your glass. The nose is an intruguing mix of fruits - apricot, and grapefruit with nuts and cocoa. Add some spice and caramel and a twist of oxidation and you have a complex long sophisticated port you can sip all night long. Serve, cool, before or after dinner. Delicious.

 

Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/2011+deemed+great+port/8304984/story.html#ixzz2RyPodlve

 

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.