European Wine Prices Set To Rise in B.C.

Last week I suggested European prices couldn't go up any faster than U.S. prices were coming down (which isn't much) but I did say, don't bet against it.

This week comes news from a local importer that there will be a 20-per-cent bunker fuel levy on all European shipments leaving a dock, effective May 15. Says the importer: "Once this kicks in, with the Euro trading today at $1.603 compared to $1.329 in November, plus marginal price increases from suppliers in the order of five to 10 per cent on average, I'll let you draw your own conclusions."

It's somewhat ironic that bunker fuel is behind the latest price hikes given that 30 years ago, a lot of the "commercial" wine from Europe had more in common with bunker fuel than wine, but I digress.

The translation, as if you needed one, is that European wine prices are going to go up quickly, unless Europe's producers decide to subsidize the Canadian market, something American producers used to espouse when their currency was going through the roof. Personally, however, I do not believe foreign wine producers have any interest in subsidizing the price of the wine they sell to Canada or any other country.

Rising foreign prices should be a gift for B.C. producers but there is little sanity this spring in B.C. wine country where, strangely, the only thing climbing faster than prices is production. This week the entire supply of Black Hills 2006 Nota Bene sold online in 47 minutes. The so-called "cult" south Okanagan red blend, whose price has jumped from $28 to $43 over eight years, produces a hefty 3,300 cases. At $516 a case or just over $1.7 million for a wine the international wine world has no idea exists, it's a remarkable chunk of change.

It's madness but, for the moment, it's life in the B.C. wine business. I promise to move off the price beat next week but I can honestly say I have never had so many consumers ask me the why and how of wine pricing this spring. I think we began this debate in January with a distributor suggesting there is no price for wine any more. I'm beginning to believe that it may well be true. If there is any good news in rapidly rising wine prices, I believe consumers are beginning to realize that price is no longer, if it ever was, an indication of quality.

Today, we look at several takes on the ever-popular chardonnay, still the white wine of choice for most drinkers on a daily basis.

I've always been attracted to the Dry Rock series of wines from Gehringer; first because the wines were made in a clean, fresh style without any make-up and, more importantly, the price is commensurate with the quality. Check out the Dry Rock Vineyards Chardonnay 2006 with its attractive floral, honey fresh entry and round but elegant style. Look for light grapefruit, grassy, green apple, mineral, butter and nectarine skin flavours. An all-occasion B.C. chardonnay that is good value.

The business of wild fermentation sounds exotic, but in fact it simply means the naturally occurring indigenous yeasts in the vineyards are allowed to spontaneously begin the fermentation. The Errazuriz Chardonnay Wild Ferment 2007 comes out of the cool Casablanca Valley just west of the city of Santiago. We love the nutty, spicy lees, mineral, vanilla notes that mix with its creamy, buttery, baked apple, nectarine skin aromas. Its juicy, bright flavours are flecked with butterscotch, pineapple, citrus, honey and pear that should easily hold and improve over time under its screwcap closure.

Westbank is home to the Quails' Gate Chardonnay 2006 and its cool, floral, mineral, grapefruit rind, green apple skin aromas. Moderately dry on the palate, it delivers, offering more green apple skin, honey, light lees, melon rind flavours and a touch of citrus rind on the finish.

This is more along the lean, modern style, designed for fresh seafood.

Back to Chile and the Casablanca Valley for the Montes Alpha Chardonnay 2005. Again, there are cool Casablanca aromas of pear, nettle, and green peach waft from the glass. On the plate, it remains calm and cool with more pear and apple pie crust with citrus mineral notes. Lean and fresh and ready for most seafood and white meats. Excellent finesse for the money.

Speaking of finesse, it's difficult not to enjoy the William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux 2006. Typically flinty with mineral, chalky, green apple skin, citrus aromas and flavours, it's a fine introduction to Chablis. Ripe, soft, round and full on the palate, it's best drunk young, preferably with simply prepared seafood dishes.

Not all chardonnay is made to be drank young, nor does it have to be overpoweringly rich and ripe. Case in point, Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru 2005. From the renowned vintage that collectors are chasing worldwide, this Meursault is the real deal.

Dry, round, elegant and crisp palate is packed with floral, nutty lees and lemon notes with honey, spicy clove flavours. Great finesse and balance. Drink now or over the next 10 years.

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CHARDONNAY PICKS

DRY ROCK VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY 2006, Okanagan Valley

Price: $15

UPC: 623871020139

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fresh, round, elegant style chardonnay for any occasion. Good value.

QUAILS' GATE CHARDONNAY 2006, Okanagan Valley

Price: $19

UPC: 778856106015

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Crisp, cool, moderately dry style with green apple, honey and melon rind flavours.

ERRAZURIZ CHARDONNAY WILD FERMENT 2007, Chile

Price: $22

UPC: 07804304104890

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Spicy lees, nutty, butterscotch, pineapple, citrus, honey and pear flavours.

MONTES ALPHA CHARDONNAY 2005, Chile

Price: $27

UPC: 715126000123

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Lean and fresh. Good finesse for the money.

WILLIAM FÈVRE CHABLIS CHAMPS ROYAUX 2006, France

Price: $30

UPC: 03443620067263

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Citrus, pear, flinty, green apple and lemon butter flavours.

DOMAINE BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS MEURSAULT GENEVRIÈRES 1ER CRU 2005, France

Price: $90

UPC: 03337690109148

Score: 93/100

Remarks: Butter, vanilla, nutty lees, lemon, honey, floral, spicy clove flavours.