Rosé is all the rage in Europe at the moment with most of that rage emanating from Provence, an idyllic French province where the local pink has set a standard for style and elegance for years.
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The ire of Provence producers stems from European Commission officials wanting to allow the production of rosé by mixing a dash of red wine with white. That's a complete 180-degree turn from the more laborious and traditional technique of fermenting the wine ever so briefly on its skins, extracting the colour naturally and for the most part making a far superior product.
As has been its wont in recent years, the commission has become increasingly protective of its wine markets and many of its substandard producers; in my opinion, this is just another example of legislated protectionism. The new regulations, if passed in June, should allow French, Italian and Spanish producers to rev up cheap rosé production and take advantage of emerging markets in the Far East and North America.
Rosé now makes up a fifth of all wine bought in France, exceeding total white wine sales. Globally, rosé has etched out a full tenth of the market. It seems the the commission loves regulations that keep New World producers down, but when it affects their members across the European Union they always find a way to dismiss the laws in record time.
So while the New World continues to be badgered about the use of words like Chablis, Burgundy and Parmigiano, the commission is busy expanding the sacred Champagne region and dismantling the tradition of rosé under the ruse that it must be done to compete with the New World.
Ironically, the result will be a flood of substandard rosés from Europe that will likely confuse consumers, who prefer most of Europe's rosés just the way they are.
If the last 10 years have taught us anything about wine, it is that big business knows little if anything about the subject, and big government even less. Thankfully, the business of rosé will get sorted out where it always does, in the glass on the table, far from the commission or any other legislative body. Let's hope they don't kill the market in the meantime.
Today we look at some of the best rosés we have had the pleasure of tasting in recent weeks. If we may be so bold, it's a list worth clipping and storing in your wallet or on the cork board for use all summer. Please note the very impressive Chat-en-Oeuf Dry Rosé 2008 reviewed last week as an in-store "new release" should be included with these wines.
As more arrive in the coming weeks, we will add them to the list.
We begin at home with Road 13 Honest John's Rosé 2008 from Oliver. Pinot noir with a touch of syrah to super-colour this pink gives it a very fruity, raspberry/strawberry nose and flavours. The palate is fresh with a bright citrus undercurrent and a dry finish. It is a very food friendly, sophisticated rosé. Serve well-chilled.
The Espelt Coralí Rosé 2008 from Catalunya, Spain, is a carbon copy of last year's rosado with its "coral-like" colour. The grape mix is merlot and black grenache and the result is a smooth stylish fresh pink with an abundance of lemon/citrus fruit characters. Refreshingly dry and clean, this has summer salads written all over it. An impressive rosé .
The Miguel Torres Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2008 from Curicó, Chile, comes with a bit of heft and spice. The nose is fresh, the palate bright with big citrus leafy notes mixed with sweetish cran-cherry flavours. A fun patio-sipper well-chilled. Or, let it warm up a touch and serve it with a variety of charcuterie and cheese.
A terrific pale pink colour with a bright fresh strawberry-rhubarb nose is the story of the Quails' Gate Rosé 2008, Okanagan Valley. The grape is gamay with a dash of pinot gris for extra fruit and lift. The palate is super-fresh and bone-dry. Crab, anyone? Well done.
Pascual Toso Malbec Rosé 2008 from the Maipú region of Mendoza is the full-meal rosé with big spicy aromatic notes on the nose with bright cherry, watermelon and plum fruits. Look for a smooth sweet entry and warm long fruity finish. The weight and power suggest spicy barbecued meats would be a great match.
My final pick is the sublime Chateau de la Galinière 2008 from Côtes du Provence in the south of France. If you want to know what all the hubbub is about in Provence, just crack a bottle of this amazing grenache/syrah rosé with its crisp, fresh, balanced citrus flavours with just a hint of berries. Similarly clean, dry and fresh in the finish and perfectly balanced. Bravo.
ROAD 13 HONEST JOHN'S ROSE 2008, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $17
UPC: 00626990081340
Score: 87/100
A sophisticated look at rosé for food lovers.
ESPELT CORALI ROSE 2008, EMPORDA, AMPURDAIN-COSTA BRAVA, CATALUNYA, SPAIN
Price: $18
UPC: 08051090445017
Score: 88/100
Refreshingly dry and clean, this has summer salads written all over it.
MIGUEL TORRES SANTA DIGNA CABERNET SAUVIGNON ROSE 2008, VALLE DEL CURICO, CHILE
Price: $14
UPC: 08410113005366
Score: 87/100
A patio sipper, or serve it with a variety of charcuterie and cheeses.
QUAILS' GATE ROSE 2008, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Price: $13
UPC: 778856108248
Score: 87/100
Crab, anyone?
PASCUAL TOSO MALBEC ROSE 2008, MAIPU, NORTHERN REGION, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA
Price: $14
UPC: 00718742003097
Score: 86/100
This is the full meal rosé with big spicy aromatic notes.
CHATEAU DE LA GALINIERE 2008, COTES DU PROVENCE, FRANCE
Price: $19
UPC: 3357400399003
Score: 89/100
Amazingly dry and fresh grenache/syrah rosé.
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