Euro set to make wine buyers peons

If I didn't know better I would think it's just a smoke screen to take away our attention from the falling American dollar. In fact, other than a few isolated price cuts, the turnaround in the Canadian dollar has fizzled when it comes to buying American wine in B.C. In fact, the best deals are clearly in the United States where the true strength of the dollar is revealed.

The industry's reluctance to adjust prices surprises me given how much goodwill it would generate with drinkers, but they have their reasons. I know because I've had the riot act read to me about container fuel charges, charge-backs by the monopoly on in-store stocks should agents decide to drop the price of their wine, the cost of travel, office rents and so on.

Long story short, the exchange rate is not as big a factor in wine pricing as we thought. Now, this is the point where I'm supposed to help out the bewildered wineries and their distributors by recommending you buy up every bottle of European wine in local stores before the rising Euro affects all future quotes for European wines. By all accounts, it's going to be a bleak autumn for European wine buyers -- or is it?

After watching the U.S. dollar go south more than six months ago we have noted no real effect on category prices because A) these things take time to work through the system and B) currency is no longer the key ingredient in price changes (see above).

Following that argument, it seems impossible that in such a short period of time, that a rising Euro could work its way through the monopoly system and end up costing consumers considerably more money even before any wine is shipped out of Europe.

I wish I could believe that but, for the moment, the only thing more certain than death and taxes is higher wine prices in B.C. But enough speculation. Today's picks, at several price points, should ease the pain of shopping for wine in B.C.

From a country whose export wines constantly disappoint this writer comes an inexpensive, tasty, floral, peach-scented chardonnay with cantaloupe, spicy lees and buttery notes made by Australians. The Lindemans South Africa Chardonnay 2006 is ripe, fresh and clean with buttery, orange creamsicle, melon, peach, buttery flavours and a touch of sweetness on the finish. A simple fruity, consumer-driven style but well-balanced. Good value.

Still with South Africa, the Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap 2006, a blend of syrah - mourvèdre and viognier, opens with a murky smoky animal nose with floral bits. The entry is soft and round with more smoky, cherry, blueberry mineral flavours flecked with pepper earth and leather. Best with grilled meats -- our choice would be a grill hamburger.

By contrast the Telmo Rodriguez Viña Ciento Cinco 105 2006, a mix of tempranillo-garnacha has an inviting black cherry, meaty, peppery nose with licorice, tobacco, plum and candied orange notes. It's ripe and dry but with a fresh character. Look for black cherry, fresh plum, tobacco, orange and licorice flavours. Good fruit and concentration; try with lamb or turkey.

The high-end Trivento Malbec Golden Reserve 2005 delivers a wealth of spicy, savoury, smoky vanilla, cedar, black cherry aromas flecked with tobacco and barnyard notes. The entry is round, with good acidity, balance and fine-grained tannins. More vanilla, black cherry, orange, smoky, coffee flavours streaked with poultry spice mark its palate. It has fine concentration but finishes somewhat dry and tannic. Best now with beef or lamb, or lay this away for two to three years.

Up next, Chateau Saint Martin de la Garrigue Cuvee Bronzinelles 2005. This is the best I have tasted from this syrah, grenache, carignan and mourvèdre blend from the Coteaux du Languedoc. The "garrigue" reference in the name refers to what Wikipedia explains as the aromatic lime-tolerant shrubs such as lavender, sage, rosemary, wild thyme and Artemisia that grow in the low scrubland of the

Mediterranean basin. The nose is bright with a floral, meaty, cherry, garrigue notes. The entry soft and supple. On the palate, it has a rich spicy, black cherry, tobacco flavour with bits of liquorice, vanilla and smoky leather. Good solid flavour intensity and balance. Drink with pork or lamb.

Cline Ancient Vines Mourvèdre 2005 is the California version of the French grape. Cleaner, softer and fruitier, this peppery, chocolate mocha, with black cherry-scented aromas, has a soft, supple, slightly sweet entry with black cherry jam, orange, meaty, coffee, licorice flavours. If you are new to mourvèdre, this is a gentle entry point and it's ready to drink.

Lindemans South Africa Chardonnay 2006, South Africa

Price: $13

UPC: 089819937721

Score: 86/100

Remarks: A peach-scented chardonnay with cantaloupe, spicy lees and buttery notes.

Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap 2006, Western Cape, South Africa

Price: $15

UPC: 746925000564

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Smoky, cherry, blueberry mineral flavours flecked with pepper, earth and leather.

Telmo Rodriguez Viña Ciento Cinco 105 Tempranillo - Garnacha 2006, Spain

Price: $18

UPC: 08437001566914

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Black cherry, fresh plum, tobacco, orange and licorice flavours.

Trivento Malbec Golden Reserve 2005, Argentina

Price: $26

UPC: 7798039590625

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Best with beef or lamb, or age for a few years.

Chateau Saint Martin de la Garrigue Cuvee Bronzinelles 2005, France

Price: $20 ($40, 1.5L)

UPC: 03455840613021

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Black cherry, tobacco, licorice, meaty, light vanilla, smoky leather flavours.

Cline Ancient Vines Mourvèdre 2005, California

Price: $27

UPC: 98652600020

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Solid, round red wine for current consumption