Espana's Espelt

Espelt is just such a winery that has quietly arrived in B.C. Liquor stores -- at least, one of its labels has, with another expected to be in stores in May.

Why write about a winery selling only one or two wines instead of six? Well, I like the winery -- or should I say I like the wines, the concept, the people I've met, the packaging and the story.

Winemaker Anna Espelt, 32, has worked in Australia and the United States. She loves to experiment with wine and has 200 hectares of vineyards and grapes to make her selection from. The family's focus is to build the Espelt name with the best selection of wines they can make from the property. The rest of the wine is sold off in bulk to larger wineries.

The Espelt winery was built in 2000; the modern facility lies very near to the famous El Bulli restaurant in Spain's northeast corner. The working vineyard has been in the family for more than 80 years. The appellation is Empordà, which sits within the Costa Brava region at the north-eastern extremity of Spain. Close to the French border and the Mediterranean, the area was a favourite of Salvador Dali and seems a perfect fit for this modern Catalan winery.

You can't miss the colourful labels of Espelt, designed by well-known artist Javier Mariscal. "If you want to be somebody, you have to be different," says export director Ramuntxo Andonegui. And so Espelt hired Mariscal, whose creative art career includes a hand in the corporate image for the Barcelona Zoo, Internet animations, textiles for Nani Marquina, furniture for the Memphis Group, comic characters such as El Señor del Caballito, an Olympic mascot as well as the America's Cup in Valencia.

He's been dubbed the Peter Pan of Spanish design for his work's simple, almost childlike qualities that are well-illustrated by the Espelt labels. Mariscal was more interested in doing a family project like Espelt than getting his name on a wine label -- which it isn't. "We didn't put his name on the bottle because then it would be the wine of the designer and we didn't want that, but his colourful depictions are what we are feeling," says Andonegui.

As for the wines, the Sauló is already a specialty listing sold in B.C. Liquor Stores, and the Coralí rosé is slated to be in stores in time for a late spring/early summer rosé release. At the moment the rest are heading for private wine shops, where the price will probably jump $2 to $5 above what is posted here.

We begin with Espelt Lledoner Rosat 2007. There's something about Spain and rosé that's exemplified by this tasty treat. Lledoner is the local Empordà expression for garnacha. The colour is light pink, a preview of this fresh, sipping pink with a bit of weight and sweetness. Look for bits of spice and sweet red fruits, all with a twang of natural acidity. Think tapas.

Espelt Sauló 2006 (the name of the region's decomposed granite) is a blend of garnacha and cariñena that over-delivers for the price. The entry is fresh with fragrant raspberry fruit and earthy notes to keep it vibrant and dry. Great energy and vitality make this a fine everyday red for the savvy sipper. Grilled anything is the match. Buy this one by the case if you like your wine with food.

The black soil defines the Espelt Terres Negres 2005 blend, made with cariñena and cabernet sauvignon that typically come to the winery ripe. The nose is understated, showing some spice and vanilla from the year it spends in new oak. Like the other Espelt wines it's the balance and savoury, smoky, black fruit flavours that make this wine so easy to enjoy.

Coming in May to B.C. is the Espelt Coralí Rosé 2007. It reminds me of the Torres version -- so fresh, so pink, and crammed full of lemon-citrus fruit and floral character. Lip-smacking fresh and lively, it begs for food. And once you taste it, you will want another glass.

The white star headed for private stores in May is the Espelt Mareny 2007, a delicious blend of sauvignon blanc and muscat de Alexandria. It has illusions of ripe fruit but the main thread is a pungent, dry, gooseberry, nettle grass nose and flavours with bits of dried lemon rind in the finish. Very food-friendly with fine acidity and verve. A stylish fragrant white from Nuevo España.

Espelt Vailet 2007, another Spanish white, mixes garnacha blanco with macabeo to shape a fresh, clean, light-scented nose of citrus, pineapple and grass. On entry, the wine is soft and round (that comes from the macabeo) with dry fruity notes of mineral, seawater and oyster liqueur. Expect a dry lip-smacking, fresh finish. Absolutely all it can be for the price and more. Only 5,000 cases made.

Price: $15, coming to private wine shops

UPC: N/A

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Fresh, fun sipping pink with a bit of weight and sweetness. Think tapas.

ESPELT SAULÓ 2006, Spain

Price: $15

UPC: 08436020950216

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Great energy and vitality makes this a fine everyday red for the savvy sipper.

ESPELT TERRES NEGRES 2005, Spain

Price: $24, coming to private wine shops

UPC: 08436020950148

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Fruity, savoury, smoky, black fruit flavours.

ESPELT CORALÍ ROSÉ 2007, Spain

Price: $16, May rosé release

UPC: 08051090445017

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Lip-smacking, dry, fresh and lively, it begs for food.

ESPELT MARENY 2007, Spain

Price: $17, coming to private wine shops

UPC: 08436020950193

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Fragrant stylish white wine from Nuevo España.

ESPELT VAILET 2007, Spain

Price: $15, coming to private wine shops

UPC: 28436020950180

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Absolutely all it can be for the price and more.