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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

By the time you read this, fall will have officially arrived and my desk should be cleared off.

But for now I am desperately trying to remove months of press releases and other assorted notes to meet a self-imposed deadline to find my desktop (the physical one).

We begin the clean-up, perhaps strangely, with a standard Riedel wine glass, just like the one you see pictured every week on these pages (with too much wine in it).

At this week's Chef Meets Grape event put on by the British Columbia Wine Institute, Puddifoot handed each participant an $11 (retail) Riedel wine glass to use at the tasting and to take home afterwards. I can only reiterate that tasting any wine with a proper wine glass will dramatically heighten the experience.

And this tasting appeared to be a huge success. One of the more interesting trends is the steady rise in the number of screwcap-finished wines. Certainly comparing screwcap versus cork, side by side, with some of B.C.'s more delicate varieties will leave you shaking your head about why anyone would want to stuff a piece of bark into such delicate, pristine fruit.

Still with fall, there is plenty of concern in California where early morning fog has plagued vineyards, causing problems with botrytis (mould) on the grapes. In many areas, the cool weather has also set the harvest back by weeks. Compounding the trauma, the crop looks to be large, at least on the vine, and that means ripening difficulties for those who failed to thin out the crop earlier this year.

Wine drinkers headed for California may want to stop by the town of Healdsburg to dine at Cyrus, the latest edition to Sonoma's burgeoning restaurant scene. Some are already calling Cyrus the French Laundry of Sonoma, although I can assure the pacing, at least during my visit, was far superior to that tony Napa eatery, where dinner is often labouriously long.

So much for clearing off my desk -- I've barely made a dent. Today's picks are a truly eclectic bunch.

After a so-so 2003 effort, the La Chamiza Cabernet Merlot 2004 from Mendoza is back on track. At $7.95, this has everyday written all over it. Look for a soft, round, easy sipping style with some sweetness and acidity. It is a well-balanced, attractive consumer-style red that will not break the budget.

The enigmatic Walter Gehringer has turned out a delicious Gehringer Brothers Ehrenfelser Dry Classic 2004. With a nose flecked with honey, orange and mineral aromas, the ripe, round, slightly fat white offers up peach, orange-creamsicle, baked apple and mineral flavours. A succulent, almost viognier-like white you can pair with Indian or Chinese food. Another best buy at $11.95.

Each vintage, we recommend Trivento Cabernet Malbec Reserve and the 2003 gets the nod again. Look for white pepper, cardamom, blackberry jam and meaty aromas and a fat, supple, chunky palate. Plenty of savoury notes streaked with vanilla, cedar, coffee and black cherry jam. There is big flavour intensity, too.

Finca Luzon Jumilla 2004, a blend of monastrell, syrah, cabernet sauvignon and tempranillo from Jumilla, is easily one of the best organic wines in the market. Savoury, chocolate, black cherry jam nose with smoky, garrigue aromas mix with pepper, chocolate and earthy, black cherry jam. The New Spain and solid value, too.

The Burgans Albarino 2004, from Rias Baixas in north-eastern Spain, is delicious. Look for mineral, pear, orange rind aromas flecked with apple skin and floral notes. It is very dry and crisp with luscious honey, orange skin, mineral and baked nectarine flavours. Refreshing, intense, and flavoursome with a big citrus finish. Think grilled or sauteed seafood.

We finish with something completely different, Batasiolo Bosc Dla Rei Moscato d'Asti 2004. Look for a lifted fresh nose with floral, orange and spicy pear aromas, with a light spritz and plenty of residual sugar. This is classy muscat with ripe peach, apple, spicy, nectarine and orange flavours. Fun and fresh, it might be interesting with a warm brioche filled with foie gras or fresh fruit tart for dessert.

The Mix

La Chamiza Cabernet Merlot 2004, Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $7.95
UPC: 7798039591141
Score: 86/100
Remarks: The perfect budget red.

Gehringer Brothers Ehrenfelser Dry Classic 2004, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price: $11.99
UPC: 623871010024
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Solid match for Indian or Chinese food and a great buy.

Trivento Cabernet Malbec Reserve 2003, Mendoza, Argentina
Price: $12.95
UPC: 7798039590137
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Black cherry jam with a smoky, licorice finish.

Finca Luzon Jumilla 2004, Jumilla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain
Price: $14.99
UPC: 8436005760014
Score: 87/100
Remarks: One of the best inexpensive organic wines in the market.

Burgans Albarino 2004, Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain
Price: $19.95
UPC: 08414825336718
Score: 89/100
Remarks: This is refreshing albarino, intense and flavoursome with a big citrus finish.

Batasiolo Bosc Dla Rei Moscato d'Asti 2004, Piedmont, Italy
Price: $19.95
UPC: 632738100082
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Sweet, spritzy, classy muscat.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.