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’Tis the season, and holiday parties are in full swing.
We kick off the festivities this week with the first of a two-part (white, then red) column of must-have holiday pours.
The growing interest in white wines is gratifying to this writer, who can’t face another cheap red, bathed in oak chips and chocolate. The good news is white wines have never been better, even if the oppressive, B.C. wine tax regime continues to inflame prices. With so many junk labels selling in the $15-18 range, we wanted to make sure we provided some tasty choices you could buy to impress your guests.
Looking back over the year and sifting through hundreds of selections, here’s a list of bottles widely available in government stores that should make your holiday wine shopping easier. Many picks will also be in private wine shops, so simply suggesting one of these wines will likely trigger an equally compelling substitute from their talented store staff.
The goal of any white wine is to be compelling in the glass and it should support the food, either providing contrast or simply melting seamlessly into the dish. Sauvignon blanc is great wine for this and while New Zealand receives the accolades, there are many other choices. One is the Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc 2012 ($20) from Napa Valley, an 87/13 sauvignon blanc/sémillon blend. Complex and food friendly, it is a marvel for the price. Other picks that fit the bill include Errazuriz Don Max Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2013, ($19), a mix of citrus and dried herbs with just enough passion fruit to give it a fruity underbelly and The Doctor’s Sauvignon Blanc ($21) from Marlborough, a tasty little aromatic white bottled at 9.5 per nt with a touch of residual sugar to work with spicy appetizers.
There are several local wines in government stores that can make your party sizzle beginning with the razor-sharp Tantalus Riesling 2013 ($23). Warm, wet, stony, mineral aromas amaze as do its peachy/guava, mineral flavours. Serve with most foods. Similarly electric and just plain fun to drink is the Terravista Fandango Albariño Verdejo 2013 ($25). The blend, a 68/32 mix of albariño/verdejo all grown on the Naramata Bench is a juicy citrus, floral, pear and white peach drink. Slightly richer with more power, is the Church $ State Wines TreBella Marsanne - Roussanne-Viognier 2013 ($20). From the Southern Rhone direct to the Southern Okanagan, this bottle is way cool from its lees-laden texture and spice to its savoury brown butter, apricot nut, dried herbs and lemon notes.
One-off bottles that can stand alone and amaze include Bellingham The Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2013 ($25) from South Africa, with creamy, honey, hazelnut, pear, quince and lemon flavours. From Italy we have enjoyed the Argiolas Costamolino Vermentino di Sardegna 2012 ($20), with its ginger, floral, off-dry palate with honey, orange, and butter flavours. Closer to home, the Quails’ Gate Chenin Blanc 2013 ($19) brings a rush of citrus and tropical fruit all in a dry style you can serve from appetizer to main course. That goes ditto for the Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2013 ($18), seriously well executed, vintage in and vintage out. We love the ginger, honey, lime, orange peel, rose petal and lees flavours. Excellent finesse at a ridiculous value for viognier fans.
But for Tantalus, we haven’t mentioned the riesling word but there is plenty to choose from, including the super bargain Mission Hill Reserve Riesling 2013 ($19) and the Pierre Sparr Extrem Riesling 2011 ($24) is a delicious, cutting-edge Alsace riesling with steely, guava lemon flavours. Throw in a Wild Goose Gewurztraminer 2010 ($18.50), a Tahbilk Marsanne 2010 ($20) from Victoria, Australia and the Laurenz V. Und Sophie Singing Grüner Veltliner 2012 ($23), with its dried tangerine peel and white pepper notes and you can see with a little effort your white-wine party selection can be the envy of your friends. All you need is to be bold and be different.
