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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Saving money is the current watchword in most households and when it comes to dining out and buying wine, it's almost becoming a mantra.

Downsizing Your Wine Budget

For those of us who have been through these economic downturns before, it's clearly prudent to be cautious. The real lesson, however, may be to get realistic and live within your means.

 

How that relates to wines is simple. Spending hundreds of dollars on a bottle may stoke your ego, but it is seldom worth it from a pure quality point of view. If anything, the technological and scientific advancements in wine have changed the $10 to $20 wine forever. In fact, many wines in that price range over-deliver, making them a joy to drink.

 

Last month at Wine Access, we released our annual best-selling issue that is focused on some of the very best wines sold in Canada under $25. A sub-set of the competition is a list of 25 labels we term "killer values." They all sell for less than $15. These are absolutely the most bang-for-your-buck wines in the competition. Many turned out to be category champions and among the top-scoring wines overall. They stand out from the crowd because of their great value. High scores, low prices -- what could be better than that?

 

Two months down the road, I decided to see if I could track down at least six to share with you. In some cases the new vintage is out, so where necessary I've reviewed the latest release to make sure it measures up. In short, these are the kind of wines you should buy by the case, the kind you could easily consider entertaining with over the holidays. I have a notion that many of us will be spending more time entertaining at home this year; these picks will save you some money.

 

Back in stock and just a crazy value is the Blue Nun 2007 Riesling from the Rheinhessen. The wine over-delivers, to say the least, with its bright fruit and zingy acidity. Do not confuse this label with the sweet original Liebfraumilch and do not underestimate its price/quality ratio. Simply pick up a bottle or 12, order in some Thai or Chinese food and enjoy.

 

We head to Argentina for even more ridiculous value in the form of the Finca Los Primos 2007 Malbec from San Rafael. A perennial star in this market, it was equally comfortable in the competition with its showy black fruit, licorice and savoury undercurrent. The tannins are soft, the texture supple. This red has ribs written all over it and at $10 that's a lot of writing.

 

Much like the previous version, this grapy Castillo de Monséran 2006 Garnacha with its aromatic nose makes the most of its 50-to-100-year-old fruit, from Cariñena, Spain. Soft fruity, meaty, spicy black fruit flavours come with a dash of acidity at the end. This is an easy-sipping red made for hamburgers, beef ribs and chicken.

 

Tormaresca 2006 Neprica is an innovative blend of negroamaro, primitivo and cabernet sauvignon from Apulia, near the heel of Italy's boot. Look for a rustic meaty, floral nose spiked with tobacco, licorice and pepper. Similarly, its southern fruit is rich and warm with black cherry jam, tobacco and earthy flavours. The finish is fresh. It could be a perfect stew or casserole wine.

 

Australia's contribution to the list includes the well-known St. Hallett Gamekeeper's Reserve Shiraz-Grenache 2007. The Barossa Valley blend comes with spicy, earthy/tea aromas and bits of black fruit and raspberry. The entry is warm and soft with pronounced acidity throughout. The flavours combine blueberries, licorice root and smoky, lifted black raspberry notes. Affordable, straight-up Oz shiraz you can party on with.

Our final pick is an interesting new red from Toro, Spain. Toro Tinta de Toro is sold only in private wine shops, but it is well worth looking for. The grape is 100-per-cent local tinta de Toro or tempranillo. Typically soft and fruity, this red can be tight early on, but simply decant it vigorously and get some air on it. In fact, decanting all of today's picks will simply enhance them in the glass. The Toro is a mix of berries, earth and spice with just the right twist of rusticity and a glossy, smooth, dry finish. Think flank steak or burgers.

 

Okay, now be sensible. Pick up a mixed case or two and avoid the holiday rush.

 


KILLER VALUES

 

BLUE NUN RIESLING 2007, RHEINHESSEN, GERMANY

Price: $11

UPC: 4022025390030

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Perfect for take-out Thai or Chinese.

 

FINCA LOS PRIMOS MALBEC 2007, SAN RAFAEL, GENERAL ALVEAR, SOUTHERN REGION, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $10

UPC: 07790703167195

Score: 87/100

Remarks: The tannins are soft, the textures supple.

 

CASTILLO DE MONSERAN GARNACHA 2006, CARINENA, ARAGON, SPAIN

Price: $11

UPC: 3378630306227

Score: 86/100

Remarks: This is an easy sipping red made for hamburgers, beef ribs and chicken.

 

TORMARESCA NEPRICA NEGROAMARO-PRIMITIVO-CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006, APULIA, ITALY

Price: $15

UPC: 08026530000039

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Peppery, meaty, floral, black cherry jam that finishes warm.

 

ST. HALLETT GAMEKEEPER'S RESERVE SHIRAZ-GRENACHE 2007, BAROSSA VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Price: $14.50

UPC: 9316920000077

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Blueberries, licorice root and smoky, lifted black raspberry notes.

 

TORO TINTA DE TORO 2006, TORO, CASTILLA-LEON, SPAIN

Price: $15

UPC: 008420765000015

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Berries, earth and spice with just the right twist of rusticity.

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.