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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

The B.C.

Delusional Union Leadership and Other Obstructions

Government Employers Union walked off the job at all three liquor distribution centres this week hoping to get some attention for their salary and benefit demands.

 

Union president Darryl Walker certainly got my attention with his remark that "customers shouldn't notice any disruption" in service. Really, you close down three distribution centres and Store 100, responsible for special orders and those of many city restaurants, and you think customers won't notice any disruption? If in fact that's true, it doesn't sound as if there is any compelling case not to privatize liquor distribution across the province.

 

Meanwhile, back at the #freemygrapes campaign, I can report that Tinhorn Creek Winery CEO Sandra Oldfield has received the shotgun that she ordered online from a Saskatchewan gun dealer but has yet to be given provincial permission to sell her wine via ecommerce to most Canadians living outside British Columbia. Despite gaining federal approval in both houses of Parliament, Oldfield is at the mercy of the provincial governments and their liquor monopolies, most of whom have little intention of yielding any power when it comes to ecommerce and the sale of alcohol in their fiefdoms.

 

On the surface, blocking the sale of Canadian wine across the country is just plain stupid but remember we mentioned wine is wine a few weeks back, both Canadian and imported. Since both are likely to be affected by any rulings regarding inter-provincial shipping, it's not hard to understand why some provinces are reticent to open up their borders. I'm sure it's a worrisome issue for the BCLDB given our outrageously high prices. Ironically, it's Ontario that is standing fast against inter-provincial transfers; ironic because given how cheap wine is in Ontario compared to the rest of the country, the LCBO would be the place to buy wine in Canada. It has to have the other monopolies cringing because there is no mechanism to equalize the tax loss should its citizens buy of out of province wines. It really is a Pandora's box and how it will play out is anyone's guess but don't bet against more taxes.

 

My bet is the monopoly version of inter-provincial ecommerce will be similar to what they do at the international border where you might as well get a room for an extra night and drink all the wine you want to bring home because it will be cheaper. Once buying wine inter-provincially is as expensive as importing wine across international borders, domestic wineries will be free to sell their wines to fellow Canadians across the country. Problem solved equal access for all.

 

This week we look at a jumbled selection of wines which, despite the tax, are all worth buying -- even the 2006 Grange -- should you have the means.

 

Valle de Marchigue is a cooler section of the famed Colchagua Valley, and the Carmen Viognier Reserva 2011 reflects the sub-region offering a cool, restrained style. Lemon scented with florals and minerals, the palate is a bright, fresh mix of citrus butter and baked pear with flecks of orange peel in the finish. Food-friendly, it is a perfect drink before or during the meal.

 

The latest Mission Hill Perpetua Chardonnay Osoyoos Vineyard Estate 2009 is out with a glass full of honey, peach, vanilla, pineapple/fruit cocktail aromas. The palate is fat but juicy with just a hint of sweetness. More melon, butter and honey coat the palate flecked with spicy lees, vanilla bean, baked apple and citrus flavours. The finish is a touch salty. This needs a year or so to integrate and fill out.

 

It's a pleasure to report the Torres Coronas Tempranillo 2008 is clean and fresh with a peppery, tobacco cherry jam nose with bits of meat, olive tapenade and spice throughout. Smooth and balanced, it has attractive cherry, strawberry, tobacco, chocolate, licorice root and earth flavours that are very food friendly. We like the finesse and balance here and you can drink this now. Solid value.

 

Chile's Pérez Cruz Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah Reserva 2010 is a nice riff on the traditional Australian blend. Look for a minty, savoury, leafy nose with celery salt, licorice and olive aromas. It's fresh, smooth and round on the palate with cassis, blackberry, licorice, eucalyptus and herb flavours. Good finesse if a bit tart on the finish, and definitely showing that "leafy" Maipo character.

 

McLaren Vale shiraz tannins are always quite polished and smooth in texture and that's the case with Chapel Hill The Parson's Nose Shiraz 2010. An enticing nose of blueberries, licorice, pepper and smoky bacon previews a smooth, fresh palate with black cherry jam, prune, licorice, tobacco and savoury flavours. Good finesse if warm and slightly tart in the back end. Try this with your favourite grilled meat entrée.

 

There is something about the number six at Grange, as in '76, '86, '96 and now 2006.

 

Although winemaker Peter Gago says the Penfolds Grange Bin 95 Shiraz 2006 is more '86, '96 than '76 in style. The blend is 98/2 Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon and it all gets the requisite 18 months in 100 per cent new American oak hogsheads.

 

Brooding and rich but with glossy, chalky, powerful tannins the palate is a mix of grilled meats and black fruit flavours. The structure and power are fabulous all of which suggests this one will easily age in bottle for another 45 years.

 

At $423 it is no bargain, but if you consider the 1951 Grange fetches $50,000 a bottle at auction it has to be considered a good investment.

 


Penfolds Grange Bin 95 Shiraz 2006, South Australia

Price: $423

UPC: 012354071100

Score: 98/100

Remarks: Fabulous structure and power which suggest this one will last 50 years in bottle.

 

Carmen Viognier Reserva 2011, Valle de Marchigue, Valle del Colchagua, Chile

Price: $14

UPC: 00677758902087

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A bright fresh mix of citrus butter and baked pear with flecks of orange peel.

 

Mission Hill Perpetua Chardonnay Osoyoos Vineyard Estate 2009, Okanagan Valley

Price: $40

UPC: 7765455555625

Score : 89/100

Remarks: Melon, butter, honey, spicy vanilla bean and baked apple flavours.

 

Torres Coronas Tempranillo 2008, Catalunya, Spain

Price: $16

UPC: 008410113003546

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Cherry, strawberry, tobacco, licorice and earth flavours. Hamburgers anyone?

 

Pérez Cruz Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah Reserva 2010, Alto Maipo, Valle del Maipo, Chile

Price: $17

UPC: 00858130000014

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Dry palate with cassis, blackberry, licorice and peppery, olive flavours.

 

Chapel Hill The Parson's Nose Shiraz 2010, McLaren Vale, South Australia

Price: $20

UPC: 009315006000314

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fresh palate with black cherry jam, prune, licorice and smoky bacon.


Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/Various+worthy+wines/6895139/story.html#ixzz24aqtKIo5

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.