Creating a World Class Winery at Misson Hill

It seemed especially ironic given how smitten the audience was by von Mandl's rags-to-riches journey with wine.

At the event, von Mandl laid out the dream and told the story of how he got there while reminding us that one of the advantages of being a private company is you don't have to tell anybody what you are doing until you do it. In the case of Mission Hill nothing could be closer to the truth. Even those of us who know a lot about the winery have to admit most of what we know comes to our attention long after it comes to fruition. It's a trade-off, I suppose, but after years of watching public wine companies act inthe interest of their shareholders instead of the wines, it's easier to acceptthe notion of privacy sought by small family wine producers.

Not too long into the lunch von Mandl revealed that theMark Anthony Group of Companies generates more than half a billion dollars a year in revenues through the sale of wine both imported and domestic, beer andits runaway money-maker, the flavoured malt sensation Mike's Hard Lemonade.

A lot of people with money get into the wine business, interestingly von Mandl had very little when he set out to build his dream Okanagan Valley winery. What he does have is vision and after 25 years ofintensive work his dream for Mission Hill Family Estate is nearly a reality.

Von Mandl is all about the details and if you visit wineries the way I do, the first thing you notice about the Mission Hillproperty is its fit and finish; it is second to none in the business. When you set out to build one of the world's top 10 wineries, in a valley most of the world never heard of, in country better known for hockey and skiing, you best not skimp on anything.

The search for winemaker John Simes took more than two years and, nearly 25 years later, he is still in place. Reaching out for international superstar consultant Michel Rolland has helped to focus the teamon softer, riper tannins while vineyard maintenance and refinement under James Hopper has been ongoing since the late 1990s and is now so methodical you could say it is a vine-by-vine program based on wines and the grapes required to makethem.

Winning some important national awards, including several Canadian Winery of the Year nods and grabbing some attention with big competition wins in London, England first for its Chardonnay and more recently for Pinot Noir has really fuelled the team to reach for new heights.

Earlier this year von Mandl announced the acquisition ofCedarCreek Estate Winery in East Kelowna that, after acquiring Oliver-based Domaine Combret, already rebranded and retooled as Checkmate Artisanal Winery. Each of these acquisitions are being reshaped to conform to specific grape varieties and wines. After a decade of site selection, vineyard work and clone testing the final piece of the von Mandl's Pinot Noir puzzle will come together just north of CedarCreek. An amazing gravity-fed, Pinot Noir specific winery will be built to become the permanent home of Martin's Lane Pinot Noir -- the label that won the best Pinot Noir in the world at last year's Decanter Awardsin London.

At Checkmate, Chardonnay will be taken to new heights, with several small lot releases due in 2014, and Merlot will get the von Mandlspecificity treatment. In many ways it is a natural occurrence. The team at Mission Hill has done their homework. The new projects can stand on their own.The dream von Mandl had a quarter century ago not only has come true but it ismorphing into a much bigger reality, something much more intriguing than NapaValley north.

ArgiolasCostamolino Vermentino di Sardegna 2012, Sardinia, Italy

Price $22 | Score: 89/100

UPC: 8010544112758

Another winner in 2012. Big ginger, floral, spicy, melonaromas mix with notes of quince, apple and citrus. Fresh, creamy, juicy, off-dry palate with honey, orange, baked pear, ginger and butter flavours. Lots of flavour here to easily match most summer seafood dishes or white meats,including turkey.

Miopasso Fiano2012, Sicily, Italy

Price: $19 | Score: 88/100

UPC: 008034115191270

Honey, ripe pear, nutty, guava, orange and apricot aromas preview a ripe style. The attack is soft and round, the palate creamy with juicy mango, pear, ginger and apricot flavours. A solid style with fruit intensity that should be good with halibut and a fruit salsa.

Niepoort DialogoDouro Branco 2011, Douro Superior, Portugal

Price: $20 | Score: 88/100

UPC: 5602840055698

We love the dry, fresh, round and juicy palate of this Portuguese white with its light butter, pear, green apple, gooseberry, lees and dried tarragon flavours. Good solid fruit and balance for seafood dishes.

Batasiolo NebbioloLanghe Rosso 2011, Piedmont, Italy

Price: $16 | Score: 88/100

UPC: 632738100471

Spicy, plum, black cherry, licorice, light leather, herb and floral aromas. Ripe, round, fresh and juicy palate with black cherry, pepper and savoury, meaty, smoky flavours. Good fruit and balance for current drinking with some light tannins on the finish to go with beef, lamb or fowl. Fine value.

Three Winds Syrah2012, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France, France

Price: $14 | Score: 87/100

UPC: 3760143270414

A Euro version of this popular price bracket. The nose isspicy and smoky with hints of tar, violets and black pepper. The attack islean, a little more tightly-wound that its New World competitors. Expect as peppery, meaty, juicy black cherry, licorice flavoured red at a great price.Lamb chops or grilled beef would be a fine match.

M. ChapoutierMarius Grenache Syrah Grenache-Syrah 2011, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $15 | Score: 87/100

UPC: 3391181600057

Marius is a blend of Grenache and Syrah fruit from the Languedoc-Roussillon. Michel Chapoutier named the wine after his grandfather Marius, and then went about making a delicious drinking red. An intriguing mixof juicy crushed red and black berries, a sprinkle of garrigue dark and soft easy sipping tannins. A reasonably complex, food-friendly red perfect forgrilled chicken kebabs or lamb chops. Back up the truck.