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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

WALLA WALLA, Wash.

- (May 19, 2005) - The innovative Walla Walla restaurant 26 brix has a novel twist on the convention of matching beef with red wine: serving beef that's been raised on red wine. More precisely, the pomace - or skins - of cabernet sauvignon and merlot wine grapes.

Only one ranch in the Walla Walla Valley is raising the so-called "Wine Cows," and 26 brix is the only restaurant to serve the meat. "We're using the ultimate wine country beef," says 26 brix chef and owner Mike Davis, who bought the first two animals to be sold commercially. "You just can't get more local than these cows."

26 brix features them in a steak salad with baby frisée and tomatoes, $10, and in a popular "Cow-bernet Burger" with Point Reyes bleu cheese, $12. "It's wonderful," says Davis. "It's not that you taste the grapes but there is a definite richness to the meat." 

The source isn't a conventional cattle ranch, but a 45-acre family farm run by Lynne Chamberlain at nearby Spofford Station where she raises half a dozen head of Angus cattle.

Like cows everywhere, her Wine Cows start on mother's milk. Then they're moved to the Walla Walla valley's rich pastureland. Meantime, ripe grapes from the region's famous vineyards are harvested and pressed to make wine.

Normally, the grape skins are discarded or used as fertilizer but at Spofford Station, Lynne Chamberlain mixes it with grain, hay, wheat, soy, molasses, rolled corn and flax for a totally natural diet--no growth-hormones, no antibiotics, and no chicken litter or fish meal.

Fall and winter is a difficult time for ordinary cows. As plant life loses nutrients for the winter, they tend to wander off, literally in search of greener pastures.  But not the Wine Cows. They gladly stick around for their luscious feed, a byproduct from Crush, which is typically in October.

"I know these animals. They're well looked-after, and it makes a difference," says Davis, who is currently working with a local butcher to obtain more 'refined' cuts of meat from the cows.  "No question, the cows are more contented, less stressed, and it translates to better flavors."

Located in the heart of wine country, 26 brix Restaurant opened June 2004 in downtown Walla Walla in the historic Dacres building. Crisp linens against a backdrop of warm colors and rustic brick set the stage for former Salish Lodge Executive Chef Mike Davis who aspires to transform this hot address into Washington's only 5 diamond restaurant east of the mountains. 

Davis's "neo-classical" food style combines local agriculture and international flavors with classic concepts and techniques certain to entice local diners and traveling food and wine enthusiasts headed to Walla Walla's flourishing wine region.

26 brix recently earned a "Washington Wine First Award" at the 2005 Washington Wine Restaurant Awards.

The restaurant is open for Sunday brunch from 8:00 a.m. - 2:30 p.m., dinner on Monday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday from 5:00 - 10:00 p.m. Bar opens at 4:30 p.m. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. For more information or reservation inquires visit www.twentysixbrix.com or call (509) 526-4075.

Written By: Edited and Posted by GOW Staff
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