Cotes du Rhone

The French appellation's 110,000 acres of vineyard are responsible for almost 90 per cent of the total production of Rhone wines. In all, 24 grapes are authorized to be planted there, but for practical purposes the predominant red grape used in the blend is grenache, with varying amounts of syrah, mourvedre and cinsault sometimes added. Given those parameters there is plenty of room for fluctuating quality -- from magnificent, full-bodied, rich reds that you can cellar for a decade, to poorly made thin, alcoholic, oxidized wines. Today, we look at four Cotes du Rhone reds and one neighbour that sits slightly higher up the quality pyramid. It is a Cotes du Rhone Villages from the town of Cairanne. My tasting partner is Bob Betz, vice-president of enology research and education for Stimson Lane, owner of Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest wineries in Washington state and Villa Mt. Eden in California. Betz is also the proud owner of a Master of Wine diploma, and he recently toured the Rhone Valley. Mommessin "Les Epices" was the first of three Cotes du Rhones bottled, interestingly, by producers in Burgundy, to the north. Apparently it's no longer possible to make good, inexpensive burgundy, so everyone is turning to the red wine basket of the southern Rhone. Betz described the Mommessin as having "a light berry, slightly roasted fruit aroma and the sweet smell of grenache." We were both disappointed by its somewhat light nature. The Antonin Rodet was next, and it had Betz speaking of "garrigue, a term the French use to describe the air of the southern Rhone." Betz found "rosemary, thyme, roasted fruit and earth on the nose, and again the sweet aroma of grenache." There is more body and depth here than in the Mommessin, and a finish Betz says "has a roasted, stony soil, smoky flavour." This simple, straight-ahead Rhone is moderately alcoholic. The Moillard Les Violettes has a deep purple colour and a softer, rounder style in the mouth. "Moderate to deep-red fruits with less of that top-of-the-glass grenache fruit and perhaps more of the rounder mourvedre." Betz sums it up as: "A fuller wine with fewer aromas, but more tannin and extract." The fourth wine, Domaine de Dorelle Cairanne, was a disappointment. It was the only 1995 in the group and the wine we thought would sing. Unfortunately, the colour is already going brown and the nose is showing signs of oxidation. "Cooked, stewed fruit, raisin nose," said Betz, adding: "Old before its time." There is lots of stuff happening in the glass, none of it good. The Delas Freres Val Muzols wrapped up the tasting, proving once again that often you get what you pay for. The most expensive Cotes du Rhone in our test had a solid, dark red color. Betz thought "the aromatics were much better here, including the richer scent of syrah." He also approved of its "structure and sweet black fruit flavours," saying "it's the only wine here that really reflects the character of the fine 1997 vintage." Although still a touch short in the finish, we both agreed it would improve over the next year or two. WEEKEND WINE TASTING: Cotes du Rhone: Wine: Mommessin "Les Epices" 1997 Price: $10.95 Stock No.: 014829 Score: 11.5/20 Comment: Beaujolais wine with a Rhone label. Wine: Antonin Rodet 1997 Price: $12.95 Stock No.: 008979 Score: 13/20 Comment: Solid, everyday Rhone red. Wine: Moillard Les Violettes 1997 Price: $14.95 Stock No.: 307231 Score: 12/20 Comment: Young, mid-weight red for light meals. Wine: Caves des Papes 1995 Cotes du Rhone Villages, Domaine de Dorelle Cairanne Price: $15.95 Stock No.: 485268 Score: Not Rated Comment: Over the hill. Wine: Delas Freres Val Muzols 1997 Price: $17.45 Stock No.: 498592 Score: 14.5/20 Comment: Best of the bunch.