Cool Clean Green Kiwi Wines

California was an obvious West Coast choice, but our cool climate environment has little to do with its warm sun-drenched vineyards.

Washington made sense based on geography, but it is more about varietal merlot and chardonnay all heavily oaked. Tiny, premium Oregon seemed a possibility, but they turned out to be a bit of a one-trick pinot noir pony.

Two decades later it's now clear to me that if British Columbia has a soulmate in the wine world, it's New Zealand.

New Zealand may be tiny in size but its wines are big in flavour, and they are world-famous. New Zealand's global reach didn't just happen.

Kiwi wine growers have taken full advantage of their geography and climate to produce wine that is completely in tune with the modern palate.

Fruity, flavourful wine is all the rage today, especially with chefs and consumers, and it is something New Zealand offer in spades. So how does a country of a little more than four million people develop an impressive international wine export program -- and do it all in less than three decades? It starts with a country-wide attitude that has you constantly measuring yourself against the competition, both domestic and foreign.

Add to that a national determination to export only those wines that are rigorously scrutinized by authorities, consumers and wine media at regional and national wine shows, to be sure that what is presented to the world is not only correct and drinkable but is at a quality-price ratio well above what others are releasing into the world wine pool.

From the beginning Kiwi growers and producers have touted the phenomenon of "long hang-time."

Down Under in the super cooled Kiwi air, grapes hang for months in a seemingly endless growing season, packing on flavour and depth of character while maintaining its bright, fresh character.

As luck would have it, the crisp, clean, flavourful, food-friendly New Zealand wine style is all the rage in restaurants and wine stores. As if that wasn't enough, easy-opening, quality assuring screwcaps are standard fare on Kiwi bottles, and wines that were once expensive in the eyes of British Columbia consumers are now routinely priced below pricey B.C. wine.

Today we look at six labels but, be sure to check out the sidebar on this page for details on how and where you can taste dozens of clean green New Zealand wines at the always popular New Zealand Wine Fair.

Spinyback Sauvignon Blanc 2007 is solid entry-level, Kiwi sauvignon from the Nelson region at the top of the South Island to the west of Marlborough. The nose and palate are a mix of lime rind, grapefruit and gooseberry, with tinned asparagus and citrus rind notes in the finish. Ready to drink. Think mussels steamed with tomatoes and onion and dried herbs.

The fruit for the Villa Maria Riesling Private Bin 2006 comes from two regions in Marlborough: The higher plains of the Awatere Valley and the old river bed of the Wairau Valley. This is delicious stuff. Round, fresh, crisp and moderately dry with lime, mineral, green apple skin, guava and nectarine flavours. Fine intensity, aftertaste, balance and very good value. Serve with pad Thai.

Two years down the road, the Tohu Sauvignon Blanc 2006 remains fresh under screwcap with aromas of jalapeno, light asparagus, passionfruit and green apple. The textures are round and slightly sweet on entry with crisp lemon, gooseberry and smoky jalapeno flavours flecked with passionfruit and bell pepper notes. Rich, yet herbaceous style you can drink now.

Similarly long in the tooth, yet fresh is the Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2004. The iconic Marlborough brand revered in global markets has failed to gain traction in B.C. I'm told it's moving over to the "spec" market and private wine shops where it will probably flourish at higher prices. In the meantime, for the record it has a fabulous full, delicate palate with mineral, smoky asparagus, grassy, gooseberry flavours. The finish is clean and crisp with enough finesse to keep you sipping. You may also stumble on the 2005 edition in government stores before the switch to private stores is complete. Both represent excellent value.

The Mount Riley Pinot Noir 2007 is a new listing sold only in private wine stores. It is dry and round on the palate with very light tannins. Its pinot flavours are a mix of compost, cedar and earth with spicy, raspberry and licorice root spiked with tea, ginger and orange. The finish is fresh and elegant. It will need a year or so to fatten up.

We complete our tasting with the Tohu Pinot Noir 2006 and its reduced nose with carrot top, tea leaf, raspberry, orange peel and light plum aromas. Round and dry sour cherry, raspberry, carrot top, rooty, smoky flavours with a twist vanilla and orange peel flavours. Fresh, dry, slightly lean style.

Price:  $18

UPC:  09419589000560

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Solid entry-level Kiwi sauvignon; ready to drink.

VILLA MARIA RIESLING PRIVATE BIN 2006, South Island

Price: $16

UPC: 9414416216077

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Slate, lime, green apple skin, guava flavours. Very

good value.

TOHU SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006, South Island

Price: $23

UPC:  00071123508513

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Solid, richer, herbaceous style for current drinking.

JACKSON ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2004, South Island

Price: $19.95

UPC: 9416564981012

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Stylish palate with mineral, smoky asparagus, grassy,

gooseberry flavours.

MOUNT RILEY PINOT NOIR 2007, South Island

Price: $25 private wine shops only

UPC: 9419663017996

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Cedar, compost, earthy, raspberry, licorice root flavours.

TOHU PINOT NOIR 2006,  South Island

Price: $33

UPC: 09421003130043

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Dry, elegant wine with sour cherry, raspberry, carrot top and orange peel flavours.