Cool Chardonnay

1 white wine purchased globally by consumers. Despite constant challenges from other white varieties and blends such as riesling, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris and viognier and Bordeaux blends, it's not likely to lose its leading position any time soon.

To wit, the latest Wine Institute (California) statistics report a total of 190,594 acres planted with 25-plus white wine grapes in California. Chardonnay is the runaway leader at 98,743 acres. That tops all red grapes too, including its closest competitor, cabernet sauvignon, planted on just under 76,000 acres.

A quick online check of B.C. government liquor stores reveals 309 chardonnay listings that range from $7 to $100. By contrast, cabernet sauvignon is the top red with 272 listings and a top bottle price of $259.

What is exciting about chardonnay in the '00s is what is going on at the low end of the market, namely better-tasting wine at prices that haven't changed much in two decades. Add to that how global vineyard landscapes have changed over the last 20 years and the future of chardonnay looks exciting.

The current buzz is about proximity to the ocean, altitude, row orientation, the daily diurnal temperature variation, the density of vines per acre, irrigation, pruning techniques and even how many hours they remain under fog.

Beyond that, there is a new hot button to push and it's called clones.

Relax, there is no need to become a grape-clone expert -- just know that a clone, described by some as a variant within a variety, can display differences that are of interest to grape growers and/or winemakers.

The differences can be anything from berry size or cluster shape to aroma or acidity. To be more specific to chardonnay, the interest in a particular clone may arise because it develops a zingy acidity or it thrives in cool climates, thus preserving its acidity and fruit better than other clones. It could be about richer flavours, lower alcohol or broader mouth feel.

But why change anything?

The best answer may be that New World chardonnay has always been a style, and style changes. Preservation of acidity and freshness has become the mantra of serious white wine producers while the oak-soaked, fat, buttery-soft editions have become the enemy.

The idea of drinking wine with food, while long a given in the Old World, is fast becoming part of mainstream North American wine culture and that demands a different kind of wine.

Today we present a mix of old and new chardonnay, and some in transition -- in short, something for everyone.

We begin in the south of France with the new Lulu B Chardonnay 2004. Lulu B is sourced from Limoux at the western edge of the Languedoc region and 85 per cent of the wine is fermented in stainless steel. With only 15 per cent of wine going into oak barrels, the result is a crisp, clean white with hints of mineral, nutty, citrus, butter and a touch of honey and croissant in the creamy finish. Impressive for the price and it comes under screwcap.

Yellow Tail Chardonnay 2005 continues to befuddle the wine geeks by delivering a tasty floral, peach-scented, buttery white wine with a dusting of vanilla. The entry is round, soft, warm and full of sweet, ripe fruit. Look for baked spiced apple, honeydew melon and citrus flavours. The finish is balanced. A solid-value, all-round sipper.

Not to be outdone, the Koonunga Hill Chardonnay 2004 from southeastern Australia offers another dimension of spicy, grapefruit and lees with floral, fruity notes. It is round, fresh and crisp on the palate with green apple skin, bread-y, floral, grapefruit and vanilla flavours. It has a zippy, warm finish with nutty lees. Fine value.

Rich, ripe and somewhat fat on entry with orange blossom and mango marking the nose is the Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay 2004 from Sonoma's Alexander Valley. Honey, spicy, creamy, mango and pineapple flavours with some hazelnut and lemon make up this warm, classic style chardonnay. Ready to drink.

The Signorello Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes 2004 is an enticing, attractive, sophisticated chardonnay from Napa Valley. Spicy lees, muted vanilla and tropical fruit tones mark the nose. The textures are rich yet elegant with fine acidity. The oak is masterfully handled, allowing the fruit to shine. Look for creamy, spicy, pear/apple fruit flecked with orange rind. This is a delicious chardonnay well above the Napa norm.

I would not describe the Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay 2004 from Carneros as New Wave California chardonnay, but under the honey and ripe fruit, there is a sense of freshness. Look for tropical notes in the wild yeast-fermented chardonnay with lemon and nectarine skin notes underneath. Long and rich. Delicious is perhaps the best descriptor of this excellent chardonnay.

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LULU B CHARDONNAY 2004, VIN DE PAYS D'OC, LANGUEDOC, FRANCE
Price: $15.76
UPC: 604174001704
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Impressive for the price and it comes under screwcap. Worth trying.

YELLOW TAIL CHARDONNAY 2005,
SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA
Price: $12.86
UPC: 839743000028
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Baked spiced apple, honeydew melon and citrus flavours.

KOONUNGA HILL CHARDONNAY 2004,
SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA
Price: $14.86
UPC: 9310297028917
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Green apple skin, bread-y, floral, grapefruit, lees and vanilla flavours.

FERRARI-CARANO CHARDONNAY 2004, ALEXANDER VALLEY, SONOMA COUNTY,
CALIFORNIA
Price: $39.64
UPC: 742651107195
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Classic older style chardonnay but well made and intense. Ready to drink.

SIGNORELLO CHARDONNAY VIEILLES VIGNES 2004, NAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA
Price: $59.46
UPC: 752183488570
Score: 93/100
Remarks: Enticing, attractive sophisticated chardonnay.

SHAFER RED SHOULDER RANCH CHARDONNAY 2004, CARNEROS, CALIFORNIA
Price: $66.42
UPC: 013528100022
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Delicious is perhaps the best descriptor of this excellent chardonnay.