Consumers are Spending More on Wine In BC

Not bad for a sketchy economy and a stifling work environment where marketing and sales are hardly a priority.

At the top of the chain is $413 million in "Canadian" wine sales. I note "Canadian" because after genuine B.C. VQA sales of $193 million are accounted for the rest is almost exclusively imported wine sold under the highly misleading Cellared in Canada (CiC) moniker. Seriously, unless sloshing around in a rubber sack below the waterline is the new cellar, and foreign juice bottled in B.C. is the new Canadian, you can see the absurdity of its Canada designation. That said, VQA owns almost 20 per cent of the total B.C. wine market which is impressive to say the least.

Most of the imported wine sold in this province hails from Australia ($109 million) and the United States ($108 mil-lion) and in the case of the latter country, almost all of that comes out of California. I suspect the U.S. is poised to pass Australia in the coming months but in a strange sort of way. Australia is in the midst of re-establishing its public persona as it shifts toward regional wines. The move away from critter labels and large, faceless regional blends is an attempt to jump-start the category that has been flagging for some time.

Oddly enough, California is heading in the opposite direction, pasting goofy, fantasy names on labels and using the massive California appellation to try to capture the imagination of wine consumers looking for something different. The wines tend to mirror those popular California tourism commercials that have actress Betty White sitting in a Holly-wood back lot with a fake back-drop being pulled behind her motionless golf cart shouting, "Get out here, we'll show you how we roll." And they say we have misconceptions about California.

Italy remains stable at about $64 million in sales, now firmly ahead of France's $51.5 million followed by Argentina at $50.5 million and Chile at $48.5 million.

After that the oddly combined Spain and Portugal category, stats sit at about $24 million just ahead of New Zealand's $23 million in sales.

Perhaps better news for some in the business, other than overall growth of wine, is the return of sales at higher price points. In particular, the much coveted $15 to $25 price point is showing more than 40 per cent growth in volume over the last year. France Italy and Argentina are averaging 25-per-cent growth, while Canadian - read B.C. - stats are averaging 60-per-cent growth in the $15 to $25 range.

Now that we know what people want, maybe we could get some more interesting selections because with all due respect to Ms. White, we prefer wines that come from somewhere and are made by some-body. That's how we roll.

It's hard to beat the value in the Mount Fishtail Sauvignon Blanc 2011 from Marlborough. Its fresh, juicy, slightly sweet and sour palate flecked with lemon peel, jalapeno, bell pepper, gooseberry, grapefruit flavours is fun to sip. Try it with mussels, clams or oysters. Good value.

Jean Claude Mas was one of the stars the Playhouse last month and his Paul Mas Viognier 2010 from the Languedoc continues to star on store shelves. The attack is fresh with juicy, lemon, ginger, and spicy, green apple fruit with a touch of pineapple. A bit rind-y on the finish, but offers solid fruit and balance for the money. Good value.

Cabirol Garnacha - Tempranillo 2010 hails from Monsant, an 11-year old Denominación de Origen (DO) that wraps around the Priorat region, taking its name from the rocky massif of Monsant. Limestone and loam sit above granite and slate, providing a home to the 25-to 35-year-old organic Tempranillo and Garnacha vines. Love the aromatics here, and its smoky, floral, spicy black raspberry and liquorice root aromas. The palate is dry and juicy with light tannins and blood orange, tobacco black raspberry fruit flavours. Lamb stew would be a great match.

There's something fragrant and satisfying about youthful barbera, as in the Fontanafredda Briccotondo Barbera 2010. Plums and cherries reign on the palate with fine acidity but not with that over-the-top tartness. In fact, the texture is silky enough to attract even the fussiest sippers. We love the black pepper and fruit spiced with bits of cardamom. Perfect for spaghetti Bolognese or mushroom risotto.

Further east to the Rhone, look for the M. Chapoutier Belleruche Côtes du Rhône Grenache Syrah 2009 and its smooth, dry, slightly tannic but supple palate. There is fine acidity to accompany its black cherry, plum, orange, spicy, liquorice flavours flecked with dark chocolate. Full, warm, well balanced and still youthful, you can drink it now or cellar it for two to three years. Good value here.

I have always enjoyed the one third Napa, one third mountain-ish, one third Sonoma character of the Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009. Beringer Vineyards has owned and farmed its Knights Valley vineyards since the mid-1960s and nothing is left to chance. The volcanic, well-drained soils are the perfect home to Cabernet Sauvignon and, in this case, four-per-cent Cabernet Franc and two-per-cent petit verdot. Small French Nevers oak barrels (28-per-cent new) perfectly fit this wine. Love the smooth polished textures and the cocoa powder, black cherry fruit flavours. Perfect to drink now but this will hold through 2016 and beyond. A fine restaurant wine list pick.

IN THE CELLAR

Mount Fishtail Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

Price: $15

UPC: 009421004799041

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Try this with mussels, clams or oysters. Good value

Paul Mas Viognier 2010, l'Hérault, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France

Price: $14

UPC: 3760040420127

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A blends of fruit from cool and warm sites using young and old vines.

Cabirol 2010, Montsant, Catalunya, Spain

Price: $20

UPC: 8437004333520

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Blood orange, red licorice, black raspberry jam flavours.

Fontanafredda Briccotondo Barbera 2010, Piedmont, Italy

Price: $18

UPC: 008000174160021

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Perfect for spaghetti Bolognese or mushroom risotto.

M. Chapoutier Belleruche Côtes du Rhône Grenache Syrah 2009, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $19

UPC: 03391181110938

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Supple palate with black cherry, plum and orange, flecked with dark chocolate.

Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Sonoma County, California

Price: $45

UPC: 0089819003471

Score: 92/100

Remarks: Perfect to drink now but this will hold through 2016 and beyond.

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