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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Monday, June 22 2015

Coffee & Cheese Break

By: Allison Spurrell
Barely Buzzed from the Beehive Cheese Co.

When it comes to cheese I’m a bit of a purist.

I love traditional cheese from their traditional homes. There is nothing like a taste of Beaufort to imagine the alpine meadows in the mountains of the Savoie. Enjoying the grassy, earthy taste of St Nectaire makes it easy to conjure up images of row upon row of wheels aging on straw mats in the cellars of the Auvergne.

But where does that leave new world cheese makers? Straight copies of old world cheeses tend to come off a little pale when compare to their originals. Introducing something brand new to the market can be a long haul though, so what is needed is a strong personality and a dedication to the cheese maker’s own vision. I love it when a North American cheese maker branches out and lets his or her imagination, and love of food dictate the actions. At Beehive Cheese Co. in the US they are certainly doing that.

This is a great creamery run by Tim Welsh and Pat Ford. They make their unique cheeses at their creamery in Northern Utah with milk from a 4th generation dairy farm located near them. They make a variety of truly original cheeses, and they obviously use beautiful milk to start with, which you can taste as soon as the cheese passes your lips.

They are most known for their cheese Barley Buzzed. This rich, firm, dense, almost cheddar-like cheese is cured with a crust of espresso and French lavender. The mix of these two powerful ingredients seem like it might overwhelm a lesser cheese, but the hand rubbed blend of coffee and herbs adds an amazing, original taste. The first bite is definitely surprising, but the finish of caramel and the savoury kick of the lavender make it a really playful concept brought to a delicious end.

I have met Tim many times over the years at American cheese events, and he has visited us often in Vancouver as he tirelessly promotes their cheeses throughout North America. He is a lovely person with a true enthusiasm for the work that their creamery is doing, and a real love of the industry he is part of. That’s what’s needed when you bring something totally new to the market; you have to really work to set it firmly in the mind of consumers and cheese mongers alike!

We love to meet local cheese makers doing their own thing and following their own passions. The love of their work always shows in the end results, and it makes for such a vibrant community to be part of.

Written By: Allison Spurrell
Allison Spurrell
Allison Spurrell

Allison Spurrell stocks the larders of the city’s finest restaurants and your fridge alike, through les amis du FROMAGE, cheese shops in the Kitslano and Strathcona neighbourhoods in Vancouver which she runs with Joe Chaput. Their shelves are filled with 400 cheeses, including local, raw milk French, Italian and other specialties. They also sell foie gras, pâtés, crackers, biscuits, varietal olive oils, vinegars and other specialty food items and their kitchen in Strathcona prepares popular frozen taken away meals. Les amis du FROMAGE has received Vancouver Magazine's Restaurant Award as a top food supplier to Vancouver’s best restaurants and hotels. Allison is a proud member of Confrerie les Chevalier du Taste Fromage de France. To buy cheese visit: les amis du FROMAGE in Kitslano - 1752 West 2nd Ave | Tel (604) 732-4218 or Strathcona - 843 East Hastings St | Tel 604-253-4218 | www.buycheese.com.