Christmas Dinner Wines

I know there's still nine days to go before the big day and shelves will be restocked daily, but not a lot of new wine will clear customs and government warehouses before the end of the year. So today we provide you with a selection of Christmas dinner wines and a number of back up picks to make sure your shopping experience is successful. While turkey dominates many holiday tables, ham, duck and beef are all possibilities, leaving the door wide open for wine drinkers. I thought it might be best to look at key categories this late in the game, select a surefire winner and offer some substitutes.

We begin with chardonnay. There's terrific value in the Goundrey Unwooded 2005 from Western Australia, and that goes ditto for Casillero del Diablo 2004 from Chilean winemaker Marcelo Papa. My B.C. chardonnay suggestions would be the reliable Sandhill 2005 or the Hawthorne Mountain 2005 See You Later Ranch.

My chardonnay pick is the Benziger Chardonnay Los Carneros 2004 from Sonoma County. This is a gorgeous wine the Benzigers claim is farmed for flavour. Love the creamy, spicy lees, baked-apple nose with the honey and vanilla undertones. The entry is fresh and lively, the flavours an enticing mix of clove, citrus, red apple and butterscotch. Delicious California chardonnay that is ready to drink. The white floral non-chardonnay pick allows you to think riesling, albarino, viognier, gruner veltliner or sauvignon blanc. Likely candidates include the Burgans Albarino 2004 (Spain), the Jackson Estate Sauvignon 2005 (New Zealand), the Rabl Gruner Veltliner 2005 (Austria) or the Balthasar Ress 2004 QBA Riesling from Germany.

My pick is the Bonterra Vineyards Viognier 2003 from Mendocino County. This is a clean modern-style viognier from Northern California with peachy, honey tones that display a much-welcomed restraint. It has the perfect mix of fruit, floral tones and mineral notes to set off the turkey or ham. The bonus is it's 100 per cent organic.

Okay, to red wine, and we begin with pinot noir. The "many are called few are chosen" grape requires hard work to find the best, but here's my short list for December: Cono Sur or Casa del Bosque, both from the 2005 vintage in Chile, Wolf Blass 2004 Yarra Valley, Australia, or CedarCreek Platinum 2004 from B.C.

My pick is the fabulous Belle Glos Pinot Noir Clark and Telephone Vineyard 2004 from Santa Maria Valley. The rich strawberry, black cherry, tea leaf, spicy, cola flavours laced with vanilla and rhubarb will stand up to any bird or ham. A fine pinot that's still young enough to improve with decanting.

Shiraz or syrah need no introduction and the list to pick from is long. The bold Oz labels are Henschke Edelstone, Peter Lehmann Stonewell, Leasingham Classic Clare Jim Barry McCrae, and there are many more. Those that bear the syrah moniker such as Planeta, Mission Hill, MontGras, Cremaschi Furlotti, Serame and Finca Flichman offer a slightly drier version of the round smooth grape.

My value syrah choice for dinner would be Emiliana Organico Adobe Syrah 2004 from Colchagua, Chile. It has a delicious ripe, rich, supple palate, but with just a touch of tannins and smoky, resin, black berry, mineral, dark chocolate, coffee grind, meaty flavours. Fleshy and well balanced with some grip. Terrific value and 100 per cent organic.

Pinot noir and syrah may be popular, but cabernet sauvignon is still the biggest-selling red wine. Your choices are limitless but my suggestions are: Shafer, Woodward Canyon, Signorello, Benziger and the list goes on. Remember to ask for help in whichever wine store you are shopping.

My cab pick is the Dona Paula Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 from the Ugarteche District of Lujan de Cuyo. Somewhat reminiscent of ripe Bordeaux from Pauillac, the entry is tight, with cassis jam and peppery, licorice and tobacco flavours. The finish mixes savoury coffee, vanilla and leather. Bring on the turkey or the beef.

We complete our dinner tour in Spain. The hands down, most interesting section to shop in B.C. liquor stores. There are no large commercial wineries or agents involved in Spanish wine and it's reflected in the balance, quality and value of the wines we have at our disposal. From Finca Luzon to any of the Bierzo or Priorat wines you can't go too far wrong.

My dinner pick is the Onix Evolucio 2001 a carignan, cabernet sauvignon, grenache blend from Priorat. A year in bottle has really helped this wine settle down. It's quite rich with fine acidity and big earthy, licorice, plum, cherry jam, tobacco flavours. The finish is awash in vanilla and raspberry mineral notes. A perfect bird wine, but will work with a roast of beef too. Good hunting.

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BENZIGER CHARDONNAY LOS CARNEROS 2004, CARNEROS, SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
Price: $26.87
UPC: 7857774000219
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Delicious California chardonnay that is ready to drink.

BONTERRA VINEYARDS VIOGNIER 2003, MENDOCINO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
Price: $21.99
UPC: 082896740437
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Clean modern style, organic viognier from Mendocino.

BELLE GLOS PINOT NOIR CLARK & TELEPHONE VINEYARD 2004, SANTA BARBARA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
Price: $48.99
UPC: 00855622000316
Score: 92/100
Remarks: Soft, round, supple and elegant, sweet fruit. Delicious New World pinot.

EMILIANA ORGANICO ADOBE SYRAH 2004, VALLE DEL COLCHAGUA, VALLE DEL RAPEL, CHILE
Price: $13.99
UPC: 7804320198521
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Terrific value and 100-per-cent organic. Well done.

DONA PAULA ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2004, LUJAN DE CUYO, MENDOZA,
ARGENTINA
Price: $20
UPC: 836950000100
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Look for signature savoury Argentine notes of black olive and black berry.

ONIX EVOLUCIO 2001, PRIORATO, CATALUNYA, SPAIN
Price: $31.77
UPC: 8423504000420
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Rich, round, dry, earthy, licorice, plum, cherry jam and tobacco flavours.