Chilean Winemakers Plan to Party at Playhouse

Next Tuesday, the Festival will announce the long list of Chilean wine producers who will be coming to Vancouver in March to show once again what that long thin country can do when it comes to making wines in a wide range of styles and prices. The focus on how Chile fares is intriguing, because despite some impressive growth figures, it is struggling to hold on to the market share it has managed to carve out for itself, especially in the U.S. Over the past decade, Chile managed a 10-year explosion in exports that saw annual sales jump from $30 million US to $600 million US, and its number of exporters grow from 12 to 170. In today's wine world, 10 years is an eternity and the big gains Chile made in the early 1990s are history. Every other wine-producing nation, including most of the Old World, wants their share of sales back, and Chile's lacklustre marketing has given them all a foothold in the world's richest market. The real prize in the world's wine battles is sales to U.S. consumers. Chile's sales there grew by 15 per cent between 1999 and 2000, but most other exporting countries are doing better: Australia's sales in the U.S. rose by 37 per cent, Argentina's by 51 per cent, New Zealand's by 39 and South Africa's by 36. Chile's problems are mainly ones of perception -- the wine is perceived as inexpensive, and hence not serious. Little or no overseas marketing, except in the U.K., and a lack of unity at home when it comes to promoting Chilean wine globally, have all conspired to leave Chile in the middle of the pack. There are indications things are about to change and Chile's role as the Vancouver festival's theme country next March is a good start. Despite the promotional failures, Chilean wine remains high on my list for quality and value. To better prepare you for the March invasion, I scanned our government stores for a short list of top-quality, best-value wines you can enjoy this weekend. Here's what I found: The Veramonte 2001 Chardonnay boasts fabulous, fresh fruit and an easy drinking style. Minimal winemaker intervention leaves only the fruit to shine. You'll love the apple/mineral/nectarine fruit flavours that are a signature of the Casablanca Valley; there's just a dusting of oak and creamy honey flavours in the finish. Great value. The Colchagua appellation on the Montes Cabernet Sauvignon is reason enough to pick up this red. Factor in the highly regarded 1999 vintage and a price of $13.95 and you have a winner. Best of all are the ripe blackcurrant fruit and smoky, earthy flavours. This is just about as good as it gets for the price. Montes Alpha 2000 Syrah is winemaker Aurelio Montes second bottling of this grape. It's aged in French oak for one year before undergoing a delicate filtering. Look for floral/tobacco/ leathery notes on the nose and palate, with mature, round tannins in the finish. This superb syrah sets a benchmark for Chile. The Valdivieso 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is coming along nicely in the bottle. It has an open, vanilla/spicy/resiny nose, with textures that are soft and smooth. Rich, spicy vanilla and prune-plum flavours blend with hints of barnyard and leather undertones. It's well priced for the quality. A new shipment of Trio 1999 Merlot is good news for B.C. consumers. This deeply-coloured red, with its cassis and crushed herb aromas, and blackberry and mint flavours, is rich, smooth and affordable. It's textbook Chilean merlot from a standout vintage. The Errazuriz 1999 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc will surprise you with its intense aromas of grapefruit rind, melon and mango. On the palate, it's quite soft, with similar fruit flavours and a medium, long, sweet finish. This is a tasty little dessert wine you could serve on its own or with simple fresh fruit dishes. While you're shopping, also take a look at these Chilean producers, all expected to be in Vancouver next March for the 25th Playhouse extravaganza: Aresti Family Vineyards, Baron Philippe de Rothschild Chile, Caliterra, Carmen, Casa Lapostolle, Casablanca Winery, Concha y Toro, Cono Sur, Cousiño Macul, Errazuriz, Francisco de Aguirre, Miguel Torres, Montes, Portal Del Alto, San Pedro, Santa Carolina, Santa Rita, TerraMater, Tolten Estate, Tarapaca, Undurraga, Valdivieso and Veramonte. Weekend Wine Tasting: Chile Producer: Veramonte 2001 Chardonnay, Valle de Casablanca Price: $15.95 Stock No.: 494443 Score: 15.5/20 Comments: Fresh, sophisticated, inexpensive. Producer: Montes 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley Price: $13.95 Stock No.: 464475 Score: 15.5/20 Comments: A giveaway at this price. Producer: Montes Alpha 2000 Syrah, Colchagua Valley, Chile Price: $31.45 Stock No.: 603548 Score: 17/20 Comments: A South American Rhône-style red. Producer: Valdivieso 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Lontué Valley Price: $20 Stock No.: 412858 Score: 16/20 Comments: Cool, round, soft; minty/dill style. Producer: Trio 1999 Merlot, Maipo Valley Price: $14.95 Stock No.: 433920 Score: 15.5/20 Comments: Stock up while you can. Producer: Errazuriz 1999 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley Price: $13.95 * Stock No.: 427054 Score: 16.5/20 Comments: Elegant, sweet sipper.