Chilean Wine - A New Promise

A decade of promise has come and gone for the long, thin country that looked so ready to jump to a new level in the 1990s.

Today, Chile faces a major challenge in Canada, and especially British Columbia, where savvy wine drinkers want to be entertained by the wine they buy. That means no to boring varietal wine made from over-cropped fruit grown on vast areas of river bottom.

Familiar varietals, positioned as affordable everyday wine, are simply not where the market is headed. And once a region (or country, in this case) gets a reputation for mediocrity, it's difficult to shed the image.

The fact is that in B.C., the Chilean category no longer attracts the attention of gatekeepers such as restaurant buyers, the media and/or those consumers considered leading-edge wine drinkers.

Many Chilean producers have compounded the problem by dancing to the whims of large U.K. supermarket buyers keen on listing clean, soft inoffensive (read characterless) wine for the masses.

Rather than promoting an expanding wealth of grapes and sub-regions -- syrah from Limari, pinot noir from Leyda, sauvignon blanc from Casablanca or carmenere from Colchagua -- producers and their distributors continue to cling to merlot, chardonnay and cabernet, most coming from the valley floor of the Central Valley.

It's a shame when you consider Chilean wine country has the potential to be all that California's highly touted Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Monterey and Santa Barbara counties are.

Despite its struggles, Chile remains high on my list of wine countries to stay in touch with because there is so much more to come. Young winemakers, mountain vineyards, coastal vineyards, small crop loads and, yes, more experience are all under way across Chile. All we need is some faith to reach out and try something new.

Wines of Chile, a new marketing arm for the South American country, is hoping to change consumers' views of Chilean wine this month in B.C. liquor stores.

Several wines will be on display in dozens of government stores that boast the largest wine selections. I have highlighted some of the best picks.

Viu Manent Malbec 2003 speaks to its appellation Valle del Colchagua. At $12.99, it will be tough to find anything this good even from neighbouring Argentina. Fabulous spicy, savoury, black plum and black cherry nose and rich, super-smooth black plum, savoury, mocha flavours. Great varietal fruit.

The Carmen Carmenere Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2002 is typical carmenere with its black colour and minty, dill, cassis juice and leafy, black olive nose. On the palate, the flavours are mocha, vanilla, mint and cassis with tobacco and coffee in the finish. Plenty of intensity and stuffing. Think barbecued meat.

From the Rapel Valley comes the very affordable Casillero del Diablo Syrah 2003. Look for smoky, vanilla, meaty roasted pepper notes on the nose with ripe spicy black fruit and licorice flavours. A fine effort at a fine price.

The Morande Carmenere 2002 is ripe carmenere and well worth trying. I'm not keen on the herbaceous carmenere style, but this wine is totally ripe. The fruit is juicy and streaked with earthy peppery flavours. The finish is silky smooth. This is big-time value for $13.

Escudo Rojo 2002 is a Maipo blend that mixes 60 per cent cabernet sauvignon with carmenere, cabernet franc and merlot. There's plenty of Maipo mint, throughout its soft, round, supple textures and the flavours are more spice, mint, cassis, vanilla, leather and olives.

My final pick is the MontGras Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah Reserva 2002 from Colchagua. A 50/50 blend of cabernet and syrah, it has a savoury peppery, smoky, blackberry aroma and a firm, chewy demeanour in the mouth. The flavours are a jumble of coffee, tobacco, blackberry and smoke that would pair well with grilled meats.

Wine  Viu Manent Malbec 2003, Valle del Colchagua
Price   $12.99
UPC   7804314945094
Score 88/100
Remarks      Super suave, great varietal fruit, outstanding value.

Wine  Carmen Carmenère Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2002, Valle del Maipo
Price   $22.95
UPC   677758901240
Score 87/100
Remarks      Big smoky mocha, vanilla, and cassis fruit flavours.

Wine  Casillero del Diablo Syrah 2003, Valle del Rapel
Price   $12.95
UPC   7804320510170
Score 87/100
Remarks      Ripe plum and blackberry with chocolate and licorice flavours.

Wine  Morandé Carmenère 2002, Region del Valle Central
Price   $12.99
UPC   7804449001443
Score 87/100
Remarks      Silky smooth red under $13.

Wine  Escudo Rojo 2002, Valle del Maipo
Price   $19.95
UPC   812485000013
Score 88/100
Remarks      Sophisticated Bordeaux blend with a cedar/tobacco streak.

Wine  MontGras Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah Reserva 2002, Valle del Colchagua
Price   $18.99
UPC   7804407000426
Score 88/100
Remarks      Savoury, smoky fruit with strong coffee and blackberry flavours.