Chile On The Move

Chile has been the land of promise for nearly two decades, but for whatever reason hasn't quite hit its stride. Those days may finally be ending.

I have never tasted so many exciting new wines from one country that supercede just about everything we have in our market. Given the logjam on government shelves and the reluctance to dump any product that's meeting its sales target, it is not likely that any of Chile's best new stuff will arrive here any time soon.

Nonetheless, I wanted to share some of the developments that make me think Chile is finally on track.

Matching grape varieties to soil and site -- or, to be more precise, meso-climate -- is on fast-forward. Sauvignon and chardonnay are headed for the coast or up into the foothills of the Andes. Syrah, carmenere and cabernet sauvignon are all finding permanent homes too.

Pristine winery premises, sorting tables everywhere to remove suspect fruit, small batch tanks, stainless-steel basket presses and more French oak (versus American) all signal refinement and due care and attention.

Most white wine producers are reducing the percentage of malolactic fermentation in their blends to prevent softening of acidity and those popcorn-butter flavours. The result is brighter, crisper, fresher white wines.

Micro-oxygenation, a technique that introduces small amounts of oxygen to unfinished wine to eliminate the green flavours and tannins in Chile's reds, is putting an end to all those excessive green-olive and herbaceous characters in the country's vast merlot output.

More than this, Chile is developing a soul for wine as evidenced by the growth in organic and biodynamic grape growing and winemaking. It is all very exciting and logical, I guess, because if you are not moving forward in this business you are pretty much out of the game.

While we wait for most of the New Chile to arrive, today we look at six wines you can get your hands on this weekend that are part of the new story.

We begin with some incredible bargains. Santa Rita 120 Sauvignon Blanc 2005 is an 85/15 blend of sauvignon fruit from Maule and Casablanca, and none of it sees oak. Fresh and clean, it opens with some bell-pepper aromas spiked with grassy, chalky grapefruit notes. Similar fruit tones mark the palate with a tart lemon grass finish. It's a simple, straight-up, modern sauvignon for oysters.

If there is a more impressive sauvignon blanc under $15 than the Trio Sauvignon Blanc 2005, I haven't tasted it. A mix of clones blends mineral and flint specks into this fresh, clean, bright white with tropical fruit and smoky-grassy apple fruit undertones. Fine intensity and length with persistent fruit on the finish. Good value.

The Cono Sur Viognier 2005 goes from strength to strength and its price must be embarrassing to the competition. The nose is open, spicy and brimming with orange citrus notes. Only 40 per cent of the wine sees wood; the rest is kept in stainless steel. The palate is fresh and dry with honey and mineral flavours. Serve well chilled all summer -- this is a patio superstar.

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SANTA RITA SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVA 2005, VALLE DE CASABLANCA
Price: $14.99
UPC: 089419007138
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Cool, creamy and fresh with plenty of grapefruit flavours.

TRIO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, VALLE DE CASABLANCA
Price: $14.95
UPC: 7804320037875
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Is there a more impressive sauvignon blanc under $15?

MONTES ALPHA CHARDONNAY SPECIAL CUVEE 2003, VALLE DE CASABLANCA
Price: $27.50
UPC: 715126000123
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Easily among the top Chilean chardonnays in the market.

CONO SUR VIOGNIER 2005, VALLE DE COLCHAGUA
Price: $10.99
UPC: 7804320405407
Score: 87/100
Remarks: The palate is fresh and dry with honey and mineral flavours. This is patio superstar.

CONO SUR PINOT NOIR 2005, VALLE DEL RAPEL
Price: $9.99
UPC: 7804320753454
Score: 87/100
Remarks: No one will believe you can buy pinot at this price.

MONTES ALPHA SYRAH 2002, VALLE DEL COLCHAGUA
Price: $32.08
UPC: 715126000161
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Lots of smoky, coffee, peppery, black cherry fruit. Impressive value.