Chile Finally Heats Up

1 imported wine category, and local VQA wine, now bigger in dollars than the Australian category, the question is: Which country is capable of regaining the lead going forward.

Argentina and Italy have to be on many people's lists but I'm betting on a slightly longer shot, Chile.

The South American dynamo made inroads about a decade ago before bowing to British retailer demands, who quickly positioned the country as the largest producer of "value-for-money" wines (read, cheap plonk) in the world.

It didn't take long for North Americans buyers to do the same, especially in the United States, where Chilean wine is often positioned as a category well below California wine. In Ontario, where the Liquor Control Brand (Board) of Ontario is obsessed with filling its stores with the biggest, cheapest brands known to man, it's still happening.

While fortunes have been made in some markets, damage to Chile's image has been substantial. Consumers quickly tired of the soft, plain-Jane character of cabernet, merlot and chardonnay that ironically carried a Central Valley designation that further added to Chile's woes by confusing consumers who were busy shunning the cooked wines from California's Central Valley.

All that is history in 2007 as Chile begins to embrace its landscape in a sophisticated manner, in essence eschewing traditional easy-to-farm bottomland for the cooler coastal and mountainside locations better suited to making high-quality wines.

Even better news is that local buyers and distributors finally seem willing to explore the new Chile -- and I, for one, can't wait. That's good news for pinot noir, viognier and syrah along with chardonnay and ripe carmenère.

Let's take a look at some of the latest arrivals from Chile.

It's hard to believe any wine could be as consistent, year after year, as Casillero del Diablo Shiraz 2006. Always peppery, it has just enough smoky, meaty notes to grab your attention before the cherry and chocolate kick in. It's outstanding for the price and, frankly, in a field of its own at $13. Buy this one by the case.

The latest Trio Merlot -- Carmenère -- Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 is merlot-dominated and comes with a requisite smooth, soft edge. The carmenère and cabernet add leafy, tobacco notes and cherry/cassis flavours. It's a warm, soft red with plenty of a spicy, blackcurrant and coffee notes in the finish. It should improve in the bottle over the next 18 months. Break out the T-bone steaks.

Maipo's Vina Casablanca Syrah Coleccion Privada 2005 is better than last year's version, which was already good. Love the peppery, spicy, blackberry fruit nose and its smoky roasted pepper notes. The entry is soft and mouth-filling, perhaps not elegant but full of plummy smoky, peppery, earthy, meaty flavours. A fine effort at a terrific price.

The latest offering of Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor 2004, from the Puente Alto sector of the Maipo Valley, is one of the best releases yet. Look for a distinctive thyme, cassis, cedar, black olive nose mixed with leather and tobacco aromas. On the palate it is ripe, round and supple with some fine, grainy tannins. Flavours are a mix of black cherry, mint, cranberry, licorice and vanilla with a mocha, coffee, olive finish. There is fine finesse and texture here that should allow this to age over the next three to five years. Fine effort.

A real gem for those who like food-oriented sauvignon is the Vina Litoral Ventolera Sauvignon Blanc 2006 from Valle de Leyda, a sub-region of the super-cooled Valle de San Antonio, a few short kilometres from the coast. Famed Chilean winemaker Ignacio Recabarren is one of the original new breed of Chileans turning to cool, coastal sites. The second edition of Ventolera gives us a grassy, green apple skin, grapefruit, nettle-style sauvignon with hints of bell pepper and spicy, floral aromas. Recabarren uses four different clones, harvested at different maturities, to present a ripe style but with finesse and a touch of oiliness.

The flavours mix nettle, bell pepper, pepper, gooseberry and grapefruit rind with bits of butter and honey. Excellent intensity in what is an exciting, new "Leyda" style.

If you are a fan of big reds don't miss the Santa Rita Floresta Petite Sirah Syrah 2003. The 70/30 blend appears to be improving in the bottle each time out. The nose has a massive peppery, licorice, spicy, vanilla, cinnamon aroma with bits of smoky oak and floral black cherry jam notes.

I love the rich, ripe tannins and its black pepper, cola and cherry jam flavours with a twist of mint and meat in the finish. It will continue to improve in bottle for a decade.

CASILLERO DEL DIABLO SHIRAZ 2006, Region Del Valle Central, Chile
Price: $12.95
UPC: 7804320510170
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Outstanding for the price; in a field of its own at $13.

CONCHA Y TORO CABERNET SAUVIGNON DON MELCHOR 2004, Puente Alto, Valle Del Maipo, Chile
Price: $59.95
UPC: 7804320413143
Score: 91/100
Remarks: Smoky tobacco, black cherry flavours with cranberry and Maipo mint.

TRIO MERLOT CARMENÈRE CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT, Valle Del Rapel, Chile
Price: $16.98
UPC: 07804320143958
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Break out the T-bone steaks.

CASABLANCA SYRAH COLECCION PRIVADA 2005, Valle Del Maipo, Chile
Price: $12.99
UPC: 07804350002126
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Full of plummy smoky, peppery, earthy, meaty flavours. A fine effort at a terrific price.

VINA LITORAL VENTOLERA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006, Valle De Leyda, Valle De San Antonio, Chile
Price: $19.99
UPC: 00808755004362
Score: 90/100

Remarks: Gooseberry and grapefruit rind with bits of butter and honey. Fine new "Leyda" style.
SANTA RITA FLORESTA PETITE SIRAH SYRAH 2003, Valle Del Maipo, Chile
Price: $29.99
UPC: 686586000445
Score: 93/100
Remarks: Big black pepper, licorice, coffee, cola, black cherry jam flavours.