Chile and Argentina Moving on Up

jump a considerable notch or two in 2011. Current projections have the Argentinians surpassing the Chileans in volume and money (we will see) but, in any event, the southern duo could hold as much as 15-to-18 per cent of the imported wine market by summer. It should not be a surprise to anyone given the work and investment going into vineyards and wineries in both countries.

One needs to spend but a few days in either country to see just how far they have come in recent years. The only thing holding back those wines in Canada is price and placement. Most of the bottles we see are too cheap, and yet, despite such pricing, neither country gets a fair shake in terms of total listings. The good news in B.C. is that private stores can take up the slack, but if you are stuck in Ontario or Quebec, good luck.

The cheap factor is a big issue and, believe it or not, retailers are at the heart of it. Government buyers demand the lowest price so their gigantic taxes look palatable, but the result is that too many entry level wines get sold at prices far above their station. Private retailers buy cheap "unlisted-in-government store" labels and then crank the price up on unsuspecting consumers, resulting in even more bland wine selling at prices well above what they should be.

In the meantime Chile and Argentina are moving on to higher ground based on the strength of superior new plantings and, in the case of some varieties, an amazing collection of old vines. Unlike the new rush to clones, most of the old vines in South America are the result of massal selections. The latter is done by choosing old, outstanding "mother" vines and propagating new vines from the budwood that normally results in more complex wine. Today the very best vineyards date back decades, if not a century.

Which wines get selected going forward will make or break South America. For years, local distributors have been keen to sell the same varieties that already do well in the market, in essence quashing the individuality of the home country. Chile is finally flexing its muscles, eschewing more Merlot, chardonnay and cabernet in favour of growing sauvignon blanc, Pinot Noir and Syrah on cooler sites.

Argentina's success with malbec has almost wiped out any aspirations for any other grape to make it out of the country. In fact, Argentine cabernet sauvignon, especially those blended with some malbec, might be even better than the standalone malbec reds that dominate our market.

The point is, both monopoly and private buyers have a duty to explore the potential of all the wines made in a country and to build a category that is representative of its current work and spirit. Today we look at six South American wines sure to entertain your palate and your guests this holiday season.

Leyda Sauvignon Blanc Garuma Vineyard 2009 is another cool-climate vineyard turning out ripe, round fresh wine with a creamy texture. Look for smoky jalapeno and passion fruit flavours with flecks of green apple, grapefruit, lemon grass and melon. Fairly warm but with fine concentration, texture and intensity, it finishes on the slightly more herbal side. Leyda is coming into its own.

I really liked this wine last year but the Santa Carolina Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2010 is even better. The nose is so fresh and inviting with grapefruit, lemon and light lees notes. The palate is juicy and round with ripe guava, melon and light smoky jalapeno flavours. Amazing quality for the price.

The Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon Medalla Real Gran Reserva 2007 is from a single estate in the Alto Jahuel district of the Maipo Valley with five-per-cent cabernet franc. Spicy, sappy cassis, black plum, smoky, minty, peppery, floral, bay leaf, garrigue aromas. Dry, tight, slightly tannic and fresh but full-bodied. Smoky, spicy, herbal, cassis, minty, bay, black cherry, peppery, licorice flavours. Good concentration and intensity with freshness. Still big, this needs two to four years. Continued fine value.

At $13, Finca Flichman Misterio Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Aged 2009 is the classic hamburger red. The entry is soft and round with peppery, smoky, leafy, black fruit flavours and a soft warm finish.

Charles Bieler, Roger Scommegna and Joel Gott are the men behind 3 Thieves Wine Co.; The Show Malbec 2009 is their blend of high-altitude fruit from Luan de Cuyo and the Uco Valley. It's aged in American oak, lending it a warm, soft, vanilla underbelly with plenty of soft, generous dark plummy fruit. Best with a grilled steak.

The Cobos Felino Malbec 2008 is a surprisingly elegant, ready-to-drink style with light tannins to age a year or two. With it being ripe, round, suave and supple on the palate, look for a chocolate, vanilla, plum jam, black cherry, tobacco and licorice flavours. Good value