Chianti Makes a Leap of Faith

Certainly more recognition isn't something Chianti needs.

For as easy as Chianti is linked to a well-defined geographical area between the Tuscan hills of Florence and Siena, so too is its image as a regional product rather than a wine. The problem stems from some dark moments in the 20th century when the original zone was expanded to include too many inferior vineyards and the legislated use of white wine grapes was raised to a level of 30 per cent.

As a result the quality prior to the late 1980s was anything but serious. If you can remember the straw-covered bottles, you'll also remember the lean and mean flavours, the oxidized brown colours and Chianti's cheap, spaghetti-red image.

Things have changed since 1984 when the region was upgraded to DOCG status, (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). A two-per-cent-minimum rule, regarding the addition of white grapes, immediately bolstered the style and texture of the wine, in effect fleshing out the wine's mainstay grape, sangiovese. Allowing up to 10-per-cent foreign grape varieties added yet another layer of complexity and richness to the new Chianti.

By 1996, the minimum of two-per-cent white grape law (already ignored by serious producers) was eliminated and foreign grape levels were upped to 15 per cent. Even so, the biggest changes have taken place in the vineyard where a variety of new sangiovese clones, planted at a much higher densities, have revolutionized Chianti.

The only drawback to Chianti's clear jump in quality has been its even bigger increase in price. Tie that to an emerging powerhouse Euro currency and you have most entry-level Chianti selling for $15, a price that no longer qualifies to be reviewed as a simple quaffing red.

Today we look at six entry-level annata Chianti that are only required to be aged for a year before they are sold.

The best should be bright and crisp with cherry fruit flavours and some spice in the finish. Here's what I found:

The Cecchi Chianti has quite a dusty earthy cherry nose and flavours. There is an additional sour cherry and cedar bark flavour that runs through the mid-palate before it finishes dry and light. Order the pizza before you pull the cork.

The Vernaiolo Chianti is made by Rocca della Macìe. Look for a gamy/meaty, spicy, prune nose with a touch of leather underneath. There is definitely better weight and roundness on entry but the '01 acidity shows through in the finish. It's well made and the fruit is ample but the acidity cries out for some form of spicy pork dish.

I think you will like the classic sangiovese nose of cherry, almond and meaty licorice on the Renzo Masi Chianti Rufina. There's plenty of lively acidity and fairly dry tannins in the finish. Food is also the ticket to set this wine free. Mushroom and chicken tetrazzini should do the trick.

The Ricasoli San Ripolo offers more of an open spicy, cherry jam nose streaked with pepper. It is soft and round on entry with a mix of barnyard, cherry and earthy fruit flavours but the finish is quite dry. Chicken or spicy tomato sauce should smooth out the edges.

The Coli Chianti has a slightly riper fruit nose with cherry prune fruit and a touch of barnyard. Very soft on entry with good mouthfeel. Simple cherry fruit and more dry notes in the finish. Decent value for Chianti, but you will need food to set this off.

Frescobaldi's Castiglioni Chianti comes with a 10 per cent addition of merlot to the wine, adding extra mouth feel and warming up its earthy gamy nose flecked with cherry jam. This is solid everyday Chianti showing fine fruit on the mid-palate before the Tuscan tannins show through in the finish.

Wine: Cecchi Chianti 2001

Price: $14.99

UPC: 8006030002412

Score: 13/20

Comments: Light, dry, pizza red.

Wine: Rocca della Macìe Vernaiolo Chianti

Price: $14.99

UPC: 8002305009346

Score: 14/20

Comments: Round weighty, classic annata.

Wine: Renzo Masi Chianti Rufina

Price: $14.90

UPC: 8005256000011

Score: 14.5/20

Comments: Cherries, almond and licorice.

Wine: Ricasoli San Ripolo

Price: $15.45

UPC: 618109047514

Score: 14/20

Comments: Spicy barnyard, cherry fruit.

Wine: Coli Chianti

Price: $11.90

UPC: 677030000012

Score: 13/20

Comments: Good value, simple Chianti.

Wine: Frescobaldi Castiglioni

Price: $14.95

UPC: 8007425003649

Score: 14.5/20

Comments: Round, warm, cherry fruit flavours.