Cheese Chalk and Champagne

Given champagne's lean, acid makeup (it's the acid that allows most sparkling wine to age gracefully) the idea of serving cheese and assorted tasty treats to help soak up some of that acidity is making my stomach feel better already.

Alice Spurrell says, "Champagne pairs well with many cheeses and she recommends you serve them alongside walnuts, pecans, dried figs and pears before dinner. Even better, many cheeses can be incorporated into a first course for your holiday dinner party."

Armed with this information, I asked Alice for some cheese tips, which I have paired with my favourite champagnes for upcoming New Year's celebrations.

Vacherin Mont d'Or, produced in the fall, has just arrived in Vancouver in time for the holiday season.

Alice describes it as a brine-washed cheese that has a thick orangey-brown velvety crust and creamy inside.It is wrapped on the outer edge in spruce bark which imparts a wonderful flavour to the cheese. The taste is unctuous with a "never to be forgotten" flavour. The cost is $23.95 for a 400 grams round.

Pol Roger Extra Cuvee de Reserve Vintage 1996 would be my choice of bubble. Creamy cheese will absolutely set off this rich, round, crisp and creamy sparkler. Intense flavours of brioche, cashew, baked apple, citrus peel, mineral, quince and grapefruit are the signature of fabulous vintage and terrific champagne.

Another Les Amis favourite is Chaource, a cheese that takes its moniker from the French village of the same name. Alice says, "It has a chalky texture (somewhat like champagne) and a slightly sour taste, but when fully ripe, its flavours develop and it has the consistency of soft butter." It's $9.95 for 200 grams and $15.95 for 400 grams.

Chaource comes from the Champagne region and pairs especially well with roses; my suggestion is the Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rose. The colour is coppery salmon; the aroma a mix of nutty, raspberry, creamy, mineral notes; the flavours are cherries, raspberries and nutty, baked apples.

Langres is another cheese that originates in Champagne on the plateau of the same name. Alice says "It's distinctive in appearance thanks to an indentation on its top surface." It's a raw-milk cheese, "that has a wrinkly, orange rind and is brushed with marc [the liquor which is made from the leftovers skins of Champagne production]." It is common to pour a bit of champagne or Marc du Champagne in the well before serving. The cost is $4.75/100 grams or $9.95 each 180 grams.

I've chosen the Taittinger Brut Reserve N/V to pair with the Langres. The 60/40 chardonnay/pinot noir blend has the fruit and structure to oppose the cheese. Look for a dry, elegant mineral-flavoured bubble with citrus, baked green apples, pear and slightly toasty flavours. It has a delicious and attractive, easy-to-sip style.

Parmigiano Reggiano is Italian to be sure, but, according to the Spurrell's, if you make a scallop risotto containing the familiar hard-aged cheese from Parma you have the perfect champagne dish. If you haven't the time to prepare a risotto consider displaying a larger chunk and letting guests break off a piece with a cheese knife before dinner. Price: $4.25 per 100 grams.

Pair with the Pommery Brut Royal N/V and its toasty, nutty, mineral, citrus flavours streaked with creamy honey flavours and a ripe, almost sweet, fruity finish. This is fun to sip.

Aged Mimolette also known as Boule de Lille (ball from Lille) is described by Alice as "a beautifully bright, orange cheese that looks somewhat like a melon." It's a hard, aged cheese that crumbles easily and sports a nutty, caramel taste with a long finish. It sells for $5.95 per 100 grams.

de Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut Select N/V is the champagne partner. The crisp, clean styling and citrus and green apple notes will cut through the cheese and cleanse the palate.Expect more sophisticated flavours and styling than previous versions.

Back to Italy for the final match and aged Montasio. Alice loves the "granular texture" of the cheese and "its slightly piquant finish." She suggests that "you make this a New Year's Eve first course." Perhaps Montasio ravioli with sauteed asparagus tips. It retails for $3.50/100 grams.

G. H. Mumm & Cie Cordon Rouge is the match and if you haven't had Mumm for a while you are in for a surprise. More reserve wines has added some punch to its creamy, green apple, melon, citrus fruit nose and muted toasted undercurrents. It's rich, round, well balanced with good acidity and more mouth feel. Let the party begin.

Les Amis du Fromage is located at 1752 West 2nd Avenue. Alice and Alison are closed Boxing Day but reopen regular hours Monday to Wednesday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Thursday until 6:30 p.m. and New Year's Eve until 5 p.m. only.

Weekend Tasting: Champagne, France

Wine  Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Reserve Vintage 1996
Price   $59.95
UPC   089744301963
Score 94/100
Remarks      Cashews, baked apple, citrus peel and quince.

Wine  Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé N/V
Price   $55.99
UPC   3282946011808
Score 91/100
Remarks      Cherry, raspberry, creamy, nutty, baked apple flavours.

Wine  Taittinger Brut Reserve N/V
Price   $57.99
UPC   3016570001030
Score 90/100
Remarks      Delicious, attractive style and very easy to drink.

Wine  Pommery Brut Royal N/V
Price   $54.80
UPC   694190003059
Score 89/100
Remarks      Creamy, baked apple aromas with citrus and honey flavours.

Wine  de Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut Sélect N/V
Price   $49.99
UPC   3291690500018
Score 91/100
Remarks      Sophisticated, well balanced and set up for food.

Wine  G. H. Mumm & Cie Cordon Rouge
Price   $49.95
UPC   87000103818
Score 88/100
Remarks      Green apples, melon, citrus and toast.