Cheddar Anyone

In Canada, there are many, many styles of cheddar available to purchase:

English Farmhouse cheddars, wrapped in wax have a creamy tangy taste.

Farm made rustic British cheddar with a distinctive grassy, earthy taste

Canadian cheddar aged for five years or longer.

As with all cheeses, as cheddar ages, part of the milk protein crystallizes and forms small crunchy "salt like" bits in the cheese.  The older the cheese, the more water loss, and subsequently the more crystals are formed.  Therefore, the oldest cheddar is the least creamy, but likely the most crumbly.

Cheddar also gets sharper as it ages.  Each year it gets older, the taste of the cheddar grows increasingly sharper.  After five years of aging, the cheddar starts to mellow slightly and loses a bit of its acidic edge.

Although we don't often think of cheddars as a very exciting match for wine I often find that good aged cheddar is a natural match with most red wines, right through to port.  Even lighter white wines are not too overwhelmed.  So perhaps next time you're opening a special bottle, you should try a special cheddar alongside with it.

Our top five cheddars at Les amis du FROMAGE:

5-year old Quebec Cheddar - Made from unpasteurized milk, this cheddar is crumbly with a flavour that explodes on your taste buds.

Farmhouse Extra Mature Cheddar - Covered with its distinctive black wax, this cheddar is both creamy and sharp.

Guinness Cheddar - This marbled cheddar is made on Cahill's Farm in the county Limerick.  Very creamy, it gets it's flavour from the addition of Guinness Stout

Keen's Cheddar - This cloth wrapped raw milk cheddar is made in Somerset England by the Keen family from their own herd of Friesian-Holstein Cows.  It is rich and complex and tastes moist and creamy with a sharp edge.

3-year old Reserve Cheddar made here in BC, it has a full sharp taste.

CHEESE: Cheddar

TYPE: Cow's milk

ORIGIN/Producers: Canada, England, Ireland / Various

TEXTURE: Firm

PAIRING WITH WINE: Full flavoured red wines

Gismondi On Wine Picks

87 J. Lohr Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Oaks 2003

Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, Central Coast, California, United States

BC $22.95 specialty listing; BC $12.99 (375 ml) specialty listing; MB $25.00; NF $25.30; NS $25.29; ON $19.95 consignment; QC $20.65; QC $21.05; QC $11.30 (375 ml)

Again, we like the toned down oak here and the firm peppery, cassis, black cherry nose. The smooth contours of the wine probably result from the 24 per cent of the blend that mixes petite sirah (8), syrah (6), petit verdot (5) along with some carignan, merlot and other varieties. Ripe fruit dominates the palate with a sweet, mocha/chocolate, coffee raisin flavoured finish. A very friendly introduction to cabernet sauvignon. Pricey.

87 Fat Bastard Shiraz 2004

Languedoc, South of France, France

AB $14.95; BC $16.95 general; ON $14.05

Peppery, cedar, gamey, poultry spice, garrigue aromas with a touch of blackberry. Dry, slightly tight palate but full with tobacco, peppery, roasted pepper, black cherry, licorice flavours with a wild berry note on the finish. Very solid food wine with some light tannin on the finish. Good value.

88 Yalumba Shiraz Y Series 2003

South Australia, Australia

AB $14.99 fine wine boutiques; BC $17.99 specialty; ON $13.95 consignment - Mark Anthony Wine Merchants

Inviting spicy, mocha, tobacco nose with chocolate, vanilla, floral and black cherry notes. Rich, round, dry and full with tobacco, black cherry, plum, licorice, chocolate, vanilla flavours. Long, fruity, peppery finish with some finesse. Very solid, attractive style and good value too.

87 Peter Lehmann Clancy's Legendary Red 2003 Shiraz - Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot - Malbec

South Australia, Australia

BC $19.99 specialty

Big spicy, peppery, raspberry, black cherry, floral nose with a touch of tobacco leaf and cassis. Soft, dry, round, elegant style with tobacco, chocolate, black cherry, earthy, rootsy, raspberry flavours with a leafy, olive note.

87 Feudo Arancio Syrah 2003

Sicily, Italy

BC $15.99 specialty; ON $11.95

Chocolate, peppery, tobacco, meaty, animal, black cherry jam aromas. Ripe, round, supple palate but rich. Ripe black berry, chocolate, licorice, spicy, meaty, floral, smoky flavours with a long, tobacco finish. Well made, well balanced and good value.

88 Kenwood Yulupa Zinfandel 2002

California, United States

AB $16.95; BC $18.99 specialty listing; ON $19.60

Mature now but similar attractive peppery, spicy, prune, blackberry, briar, chocolate saddle leather aromas with some licorice root.. Soft, round, supple warm textures. Nice peppery, black raspberry jam, chocolate, briar, earth flavours with some orange peel. We like the flavours and balance for current drinking. Much better than prior tasting 15 months ago.

88 Wirra Wirra Church Block Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Shiraz - Merlot

McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia

BC $24.99 Specialty

Peppery, green olive, cassis, leather nose with gamey, cassis aromas flecked with earthy, tobacco, barnyard notes. Soft, round and supple on the palate with prune, vanilla, cassis jam flavours and a coffee leaf, spicy licorice root finish. Good intensity and texture with a fresh acidic finish.

87 Sebastiani Zinfandel 2003

Sonoma County, California, United States

BC $22.99 specialty listing

Big spicy, white pepper, raspberry, black cherry, saddle leather, menthol aromas. Dry, slightly tight entry but rich with cedar bark, cola, peppery, black raspberry, meaty, peppery flavours. A bit lean on the finish but has good fruit. Needs duck or lamb or try in 1-2 years when it softens.

88 Errazuriz Syrah Max Reserva 2004

Valle de Aconcagua, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

BC $24.99 Special Order - Philippe Dandurand

Spicy, minty, briar, blackberry, meaty, smoky, vanilla aromas with a garrigue and jasmine streak. Young, warm, round, slightly tannic entry. Rich boysenberry, vanilla, smoky, peppery, minty, tobacco leaf, smoky tea and garrigue flavours. Warm, fleshy style that needs 1-3 years. Tasty.

90 Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Jack London Vineyard 2002

Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County, California, United States

AB $37.95 Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $39.99 Specialty; ON $43.45; QC $42.75

Spicy smoky tarry savoury nose with a dash of spice and saddle leather. Soft round entry smooth impolite with plenty of chocolate vanilla and smoke blackberry flavours with a bit of tannin and tar in the back end. Well made, savoury red for mid term drinking. Serve now with lamb chop.

86 Hollick Sauvignon Shiraz Cabernet 2003 Shiraz - Cabernet Sauvignon

Limestone Coast, South Australia, Australia

BC $24.99 specialty listing

The blend is 75/25 shiraz/cabernet sauvignon. Cool celery salt, cranberry, saddle leather marks the nose of this Coonawarra-style red. It is lean and taut on entry with noticeable acidity and bright blueberry cherry fruit with resiny tobacco leaf. Light and ready to go. Serve with hunk of rare roast beef.

87 Domaine Bressy Masson AC Côtes du Rhône 2004 Grenache - Mourvèdre - Syrah

Côtes du Rhône, Rhone Valley, France

BC $19.99 specialty listing

Floral meaty sausage nose with fleck soft black raspberry and tobacco, quite enticing. Very soft and rich on the palate, almost New World-like with savoury raspberry jam sausage character and a dry finish. Solid and ready to drink now.

87 Los Cardos Malbec 2004

Ugarteche, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

AB $12.95 private wine shops; BC $13.95 speculative listing - Winspeer

Somewhat reduced nose with sweaty saddle, smoky, mineral, roasted game and peppery, black cherry aromas. Dry, round, soft and warm with stewed plum, smoky, peppery, minty, resin flavours with a touch of black raspberry. A bit dry and warm but has good fruit at the end. Be sure to decant before 15 minutes before serving to clean up the front end.

88 Scurati Nero d'Avola 2004

Sicily, Italy

BC $23.99 specialty listing

Deep black cherry colour. Tealeaf, peppery, tobacco leaf, licorice root, black cherry and floral aromas with a hint of rubber. Rich, round, full and ripe with soft tannins. Chunky with chocolate, peppery, black cherry jam, tobacco, tea and licorice flavours. Very rustic style but lots of intensity. Needs a year or two to soften or try with lamb shanks.

91 Antinori Tignanello 2001

Tuscany, Italy

AB $62.11 Fine Wine Shops; BC $85.99 Specialty; ON $89.95 Vintages; ON $51.95 (375 ml) Vintages; QC $95.00; QC $209.00 (1500 ml)

Saddle leather, tobacco, black olive, coriander, meaty, black cherry, mocha nose with some licorice and smoke. Rich, round, ripe palate with grainy, slightly tight tannins. Intense tobacco, black cherry jam, resiny, smoky, olive, chocolate, vanilla flavours with a gamey, roast meat finish. Needs 2-5 years to smooth out. Tignanello is the original Super Tuscan. The 47 hectare vineyard at Antinori's Santa Cristina Estate uses 80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc to make this wine.

89 Valdivieso Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2003

Region del Valle Central, Chile

BC $22.95 specialty listing

Strong minty, leafy compost, black pepper, saddle leather aromas with cassis and briary notes. Round, soft palate with light tannins. Very cabernet with smoky, cassis, peppery, mineral and tobacco flavours with a fresh black cherry finish. Fine weight and supple. Drink now and over the next 2 years.

88 Mission Hill S.L.C. Merlot 2003

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

BC $34.99 winery direct and private wine shops march '06

True to the Mission Hill style, the S.L.C. merlot opens with tight peppery, spicy, cool cherry aromas laced with mint, coffee, garrigue, vanilla and licorice notes. The palate is dry but rich with plenty of youthful grainy tannins. Black olive, black cherry, smoky vanilla, resiny, herbal, oregano flavours. Good intensity but a touch green and tannic. Similar to a semi-modern St. Emilion. Needs 2-5 years to put on some weight and loosen up. It will undoubtedly improve with time in bottle so do not rush it. Release date early March.

87 Fork in the Road Oliver Block 249 Red 2003 Merlot - Syrah - Cabernet Sauvignon

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

BC $25.00 winery direct, Mark Anthony stores and private wine shops

Big smoky, espresso, leather, vanilla, peppery, roasted tomato nose. Very dry, somewhat tannic entry with a tight profile, Very smoky, burnt espresso, black cherry, tomato leaf, peppery flavours. Dry, resiny, smoky finish with some tannins. Needs some time both ways.

88 Vina Casas del Bosque Pinot Noir Reserve 2005

Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

BC $19.95 specialty listing

Spicy, caraway, carrot top, cherry, licorice root, cola aromas with a touch of saddle leather. Soft, dry, round, elegant palate with light dry tannins. Cola, spicy, minty, caraway, celery salt, rhubarb flavours with elevated acidity and some cedar bark and carrot through the finish. Like an elegant, Oregon-style, cool. Good value here.

89 Quinta do Vallado Douro Vinho Tinto 2003 Tinta Roriz - Tinta Amarela - Tour. Nacional - Tour. Francesa

Douro Valley, Northern Portugal, Portugal

BC $19.99 specialty listing

Big gamey, smokey, peppery nose with streaks of garrigue, licorice root, black cherry jam aromas and a minty, chocolate thread. Dry, round, slightly astringent palate but elegant. Peppery, licorice, meaty, resiny, black cherry, bitter chocolate flavours with a coffee, tobacco finish. A bit youthful and chewy but has good intensity and balance. Try with roast goat or lamb. Will improve over the next 2-4 years.

89 Quinta do Crasto Douro Vinho Tinto Reserva Old Vines 2002 Douro Mixed Vines

Douro Superior, Douro Valley, Northern Portugal, Portugal

AB $27.95 fine wine boutiques; BC $31.95 specialty listing

Spicy vanilla, clove, cinnamon oak nose with gamey, licorice root, cedar, chocolate, black cherry, plum aromas and a tobacco streak. Dry, elegant, somewhat tannic entry with some acidity showing. Very oaky, vanilla, peppery, cherry, tart plum, smoky, spicy menthol flavours. A bit skinny and showing a lot of oak. Needs 2-3 years to smooth out and integrate.

87 Errazuriz Merlot Max Reserva 2004

Valle de Aconcagua, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

BC $24.90 specialty listing

Big plum, cherry, spicy, minty nose with some peppery, vanilla mixed in. Ripe, round, soft and smooth with light, dry tannins. Smoky, coffee, peppery, black cherry, spicy, vanilla flavours. Good acidity but finishes a touch dry and tannic with a strong tobacco leaf streak. Try with lamb or keep for 2 years.

87 Frescobaldi Castello di Nipozzano Riserva Chianti Rufina 2002

Tuscany, Italy

AB $17.50; BC $21.95 general listing; BC $13.99 (375 ml) specialty listing; MB $17.35; NS $21.53; ON $19.00 general listing; QC $19.95

Very peppery, smoky, meaty, black cherry, earthy, clove aromas. Round, rich, dry entry with slightly chunky tannins. Burnt cherry, earthy, peppery, smoky, meaty, licorice flavours. Long, somewhat dry finish with light astringent tannins. Good effort for the vintage. Drink now with grilled meats or over the next 2 years to soften.

87 Juan Gil Jumilla Monastrell 2003

Jumilla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain

BC $24.99

Bitter chocolate, black cherry, licorice root, gamey, savoury nose. Rich, round, ripe palate but quite grainy, dry tannins. Black cherry jam, coffee, peppery, licorice, spicy, floral, meaty flavours. Warm, astringent, somewhat high acidity finish. Good fruit but needs 2-3 years or try with roast duck or lamb.