Chardonnay Under $25

It would appear that there truly is something for everyone if you are willingly to taste from morning until night. This week in Calgary, over 20 wine experts who reside in various parts of Canada are doing just that as they seek to uncover some of the best wines sold in Canada under $25.

The International Value Wine Awards is a yearly competition run by Wine Access magazine, where as editor I have the responsibility of heading the search. As I write this we are about to begin the final tasting rounds to determine the winners and Top 10 producers in each of the major varietal and blend categories.

Today, of particular interest to me, are the over 80 different chardonnays in the competition. This year's snapshot tasting confirms the grape everyone loves to reach for is very much in transition as it relates to style. The early feedback from the judges is that unlike sauvignon blanc or riesling, modern-day chardonnay is all over the map precisely because consumers, marketers and winemakers cannot agree on a style.

Some are overwhelmed by oak while others barely kissed with wood. Many go through a secondary or malolactic fermentation, turning their crisp acidity into a softer version - perhaps best described as the difference between the acidity in an apple, versus the acidity in milk. Still others are smoky.

There are those that boast the creamy effects of lees stirring, and that can be performed in barrel or the tank. And so it goes.

Grapes can be crushed as whole bunches or berries. They can be pre-chilled or not. The process can be partially oxidative or reductive - completely closed and run under inert gas. As you can imagine all of the above or some combination will result in different wines. I cannot wait to share the results with you later this summer.

In the meantime, here is a current selection of pretty snappy chardonnays for the price in area stores that you should be looking for this summer. As you can tell, I prefer the fresh, minimal or at least well-managed, oak style.

There's something very encouraging about modern Monterey chardonnay as it is expressed by this Estancia Chardonnay Pinnacles 2005. Once the secret weapon of Napa Valley producers, Monterey's standalone bottlings such as this Estancia label are really worth tracking down. We love the green apple skin, citrus, mineral aromas and flavours flecked with ripe drops of honey and peach. The finish is crisp and appealing with more lees and citrus highlights. Spaghetti and clams would be perfect with this bottle.

The Catena folks continue to hit the mark with this mid-range (price), high-altitude (site) Alamos Chardonnay 2006 and its super-cool mineral style with bright fruit and attractive creamy textures. Citrus melon, red apple fruit fill the mid-palate of this stylish white that is reminiscent of some of the new wines coming out of Sonoma Coast.

We enjoy easy sipping the clean fresh style of the Tohu Chardonnay Unoaked 2006 with its peach and nectarine skin aromas and flavours with bits of honey underneath. It goes through full malolactic to soften the acidity yet there is plenty to spare. Perfectly composed, served with chicken vindaloo or veal or even halibut to best effect.

I like the way the Chileans are finally beginning to dial down the style of each of major varietal. The Santa Rita Chardonnay 120 2007 is perfectly fresh, relying on grapefruit and mineral aromas and flavours to carry the mid-palate. The entry is soft and round (approachable) but with the interest of mineral, peach pit, citrus and grapefruit flavours. Almost sauvignon-like but very food-friendly. Good value.

An exciting wine is how I would describe the Errazuriz Chardonnay Wild Ferment 2007. The nose is a nutty, spicy mix of lees, mineral, vanilla, creamy butter, baked apple and nectarine-skin aromas. It has a round, elegant palate with a slightly sweet edge with good acidity. More spicy lees, nutty, butterscotch, pineapple, citrus, honey and pear flavours preview its well-balanced, juicy finish. Expect this to improve under screw cap for the next three years.

Finally, the Sonoma Vineyards Chardonnay 2006 is a new label under the guidance of Rodney Strong. Look for a spicy, floral, green apple, citrus, nectarine, light lees and vanilla butter. Crisp, round, slightly oily texture with nectarine, citrus, honey, grapefruit, butter and light lees. Good, solid, food style and good value.

SMALL PRICED CHARDONNAY WITH BIG STYLE

ESTANCIA CHARDONNAY PINNACLES 2005, MONTEREY COUNTY, CENTRAL COAST, CALIFORNIA

Price: $20

UPC: 00083085300586

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Spaghetti and clams would be perfect with this bottle.

ALAMOS CHARDONNAY 2006, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Price: $15

UPC: 707319096013

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A stylish white somewhat reminiscent of the new Sonoma Coast chardonnays.

TOHU CHARDONNAY UNOAKED 2006, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND

Price: $20 private wine shops

UPC: 9421003130067

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Perfectly composed, served with chicken vindaloo or veal or even halibut to best effect.

SONOMA VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY 2006, SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA

Price: $23

UPC: 087512772465

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Good, solid, food-style white that is good value too.

SANTA RITA CHARDONNAY 120 2007, VALLE DEL MAULE, REGION DEL VALLE CENTRAL, CHILE

Price: $12

UPC: 089419007183

Score: 86/100

Remarks: Almost sauvignon-like but very food friendly.

ERRAZURIZ CHARDONNAY WILD FERMENT 2007, VALLE DE CASABLANCA, REGION DE ACONCAGUA, CHILE

Price: $22

UPC: 07804304104890

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Big nutty, spicy, juicy chardonnay full of life