Chardonnay Merlot and a Partridge In a Pear Tree

You can't please everyone.

Today we look at two of the founding grapes behind varietal wine, chardonnay and merlot. Both remain widely popular with consumers and if reinvented in what we wine writers would term "the modern style," they can be highly serviceable party wines.

Chardonnay continues its transformation from the heavy, cloying, oaky white wine that has little to offer food into a fresh, bright, zippy white wine with lively acidity and delicious fruit flavours.

First up is the Talus Collection Chardonnay 2003 with its designated California appellation. Talus has always been a value brand, but the new 2003 chardonnay adds a much-needed update to the chardonnay category. It's sporting a new label, but it's the fresh fruit and zippy flavours that are more attractive.

Ponderous, oaky chardonnay is dead and, while many American producers seem reluctant to abandon the style, Talus has made the jump. Look for a citrus, honey pineapple fruit-flavoured wine with a clean, fresh demeanour. Love the price. This will make a fine holiday entertainer.

Closer to home, the recent release of See Ya Later Ranch Chardonnay 2003 from Okanagan Falls-based Hawthorne Mountain should please many locals. This label has been remarkably consistent since it won Chardonnay of the Year at the 2001 Wine Access awards. Typically the nose is toasted and laced with a mineral, honey, vanilla peach scent. On the palate, it is rich but dry and round with more honey, vanilla and smoky mineral undertones. A warm vintage (remember the fires) has produced a slightly sweeter, richer version that consumers will embrace with enthusiasm.

By contrast, for the ultimate lean and trim chardonnay, turn to the gorgeous William Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux 2003. The aromas of mineral, green appleLook for an attractive smoky oak, spicy vanilla, peppery nose laced with cherry jam, clove and some cool-climate dill. The entry is soft, round and dry; the tannins light. More smoke and oak mix with vanilla, caraway and spiced coffee flavours with some dryness on the finish. Should have universal appeal and the price is a giveaway.

Today's final pick, Palandri Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2002, from Western Australia, is a cabernet merlot blend. In this case, the merlot is used as a softening agent. Its rich, dark colour previews a ripe cassis, coffee, pepper, minty, black olive and spice nose. It has a fairly soft entry with noticeable but balanced tannins at the back end. Expect classic Western Australia cassis and coffee flavours on the mid-palate with black cherry and a strong tobacco and black olive finish. Still showing some youthful dry notes, it should dissipate within a year or two. Try with grilled or barbecued meats or turkey for immediate consumption.

, lanolin, melon and citrus are delightful and surprisingly ripe. It has fine lemon, melon, butter and ripe apple mineral flavours with a light citrus rind/mineral finish. It's a fruity style from a warm but excellent vintage. This is very easy Chablis to like.

If chardonnay has a sibling, it would be merlot. Popularized and then over-produced, the grown-everywhere grape variety still remains a hit with consumers thanks to its soft tannins and smooth, easy-drinking style. The trick is to find one with flavour intensity and substance in the finish.

At $11.99, that is what you get from the Diego Murillo Merlot 2001 grown in the Alto Valle del Rio Negro, Argentina. The nose is a mix of spicy, black cherry jam and orange rind with leafy tobacco and savoury game aromas. It's dry, round and soft with light tannins. It has chewy, smoky, black cherry/black olive flavour and a spicy, leafy finish. A bit rustic but solid and definitely good value. Grilled sausages would be a perfect match.

Our home-grown merlot has long been considered one of the best varieties we produce, so what better wine to choose than the Jackson-Triggs Merlot Proprietors' Reserve 2002. For the second year running, the Okanagan Valley producer has been named Canada's Winery of the Year by Wine Access magazine.

Weekend Wine Tasting: Holiday Entertainers

Wine Talus Collection Chardonnay 2003, California
Price $12.98
UPC 088232003556
Score 87/100
Remarks A true value brand with fresh fruit and zippy flavours.

Wine See Ya Later Ranch Chardonnay 2003, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Price $18.99
UPC 624738011062
Score 88/100
Remarks Rich dry and round with honey/mineral/vanilla.

Wine William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux 2003, Chablis, France
Price $25.99
UPC 3443620072540
Score 88/100
Remarks Ripe, fruity style from a warm but excellent vintage.

Wine Diego Murillo Merlot 2001, Alto Valle del Río Negro, Argentina
Price $11.99
UPC 604984200007
Score 86/100
Remarks Rustic but solid red. Versatile party wine.

Wine Jackson-Triggs Merlot Proprietors' Reserve 2002, Okanagan Valley, B.C.
Price $14.99
UPC 063657005613
Score 87/100
Remarks Smoky oak, vanilla, spicy, mocha coffee flavours.

Wine Palandri Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2002, Western Australia
Price $23.99
UPC 836023000068
Score 88/100
Remarks Ripe cassis, coffee, pepper and minty ― cool Western Oz style.