Chardonnay Gets A Facelift without Makeup

Case in point: chardonnay. Once you have explored sauvignon blanc from the Loire or New Zealand and lately even Chile, or German Riesling, Austrian grüner veltliner, or possibly fiano, vermentino and gavi from Italy, it can be refreshing to return to well-made chardonnay.

Popularity can be a curse in any business because usually it means everyone wants your product. Increased demand is often linked to rising prices which in turn triggers overproduction. In the case of grapes, such as chardonnay, many end up in a vineyard where they shouldn't be planted resulting in boring, ordinary wine; even if it is the world's most popular white wine. Add to that versions that are too sweet, or overripe, or too oaky and you have a variety that has lost its soul.

But not everyone is making lousy chardonnay and, as the years trip by, much has been learned in the vineyard and the winery. For those willing to change and mix modern thinking with ancient practices we have a whole new spectrum of delicious tasting chardonnay. Today we present six such possibilities all you need do is add the poultry (chicken, turkey or quail) or the seafood (halibut or swordfish). Similarly, seafood pasta and risotto work well with chardonnay, as does the creamy texture of polenta. Don't forget local Dungeness crab and a little drawn butter -- it is match made in heaven.

At Rodney Strong, owner Tom Klein has championed sustainable growing techniques at his "winery within a winery" program allowing everyone at Rodney Strong to contribute at a very high level. I've said it before and will say it again, Rodney Strong Chardonnay Chalk Hill 2008 is one of those Sonoma chardonnays that can restore your faith in the entire California chardonnay category. So fresh and creamy with bright citrus fruit and nutty flavours, all with a hint of mineral, orange and nectarines. You can almost taste the chalky soils. This is a delicious, modern, California chardonnay.

Monterey chardonnay remains undervalued, as evidenced by the broader Central Coast tag on Liberty School Chardonnay 2007, which doesn't make me want to buy this wine, but buy it you should. The chardonnay fruit used here comes out of the Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey's Salinas Valley. Two-thirds is barrel fermented in 50/50 French and American oak and there is no acid-lowering, malolactic fermentation allowed by chief winemaker Austin Hope to keep the wine vibrant. As a result, it is bright and fresh on the palate with plenty of juicy citrus fruit and the odd fleck of orange rind. Roast chicken is the perfect foil here.

Still in California, winemaker Randy Ullom hits all the right notes with his Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Grand Reserve 2008 a blend of fruit and clones from important chardonnay sites in Monterey and Santa Barbara. The palate is fresh and crisp with elegant styling, juicy acidity and rich minerality and a vast set of flavours including baked green apple, mango, pineapple, honey, buttery, vanilla, nutty, lime and melon flavours. In the mouth it is brighter, more complex and better balance than any previous offering. All it really needs is a better moniker than "Grand Reserve."

Closer to home, the new release of the Mission Hill Perpetua Chardonnay Osoyoos Vineyard Estate 2008 is very exciting. I thought year one was a knockout in 2006, but last year's was slightly off the mark. This new 2008 is back on track and the team at Mission Hill should be commended for releasing such an elegant and restrained version of B.C. chardonnay. The nose is a mix of green apple, citrus rind, light melon, orange and grapefruit aromas with a touch of vanilla and pear. Fresh, crisp, juicy and dry the palate is marked with ample acidity and bright mouth-watering flavours of grapefruit, mineral, green apple, spicy lees, light vanilla and butter with nectarine notes underneath. There is excellent finesse in a fresher style that should age well over the next few years. An excellent example of what can be achieved with restraint. Bravo.

The William Fèvre Chablis Montmains Premier Cru Domaine 2008 is an instructional video on modern Chablis that you can drink. Lightly inhale its seaweed, mineral, floral, lime nose dotted with orange and spice aromas. The palate is surprisingly round, rich, full, juicy and creamy with more seaweed, oyster liqueur, green apple, lime flavours. The finish is long, rich, juicy yet svelte, something that bodes well for its ability to age another five to seven years in bottle. Very fine quality.

Peter Gago continues against all corporate odds to keep Penfolds at the top of its game. Witness the Penfolds Yattarna Bin 144 Chardonnay 2007. The nose is a meal in itself with fresh lemon, buttery nutty lees, toasted pear and baked apple wafting out of the glass. So crisp and so delicate on the palate, but with juicy acidity and creamy vanilla, green apple flavours, all with a touch of seashore, butterscotch and chalk. Good balance and finesse in a fresh, tarter Euro-style that should age well over the next three to five years. Half the fruit comes out of Tasmania, while the remainder is picked at Adelaide Hills and Henty (the former Drumborg).

CHARDONNAY

Rodney Strong Chardonnay Chalk Hill 2008, Sonoma County, California, United States
Price      $27
UPC       087512923256
Score    92/100
Remarks              Delicious modern California chardonnay.

Liberty School Chardonnay 2007, California, United States
Price      $24
UPC       657891704212
Score    88/100
Remarks              Bright and fresh on the palate with plenty of juicy citrus fruit.

Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Grand Reserve 2008, Monterey - Santa Barbara, California
Price      $45 private wine stores only
UPC       0815840132211
Score    91/100
Remarks              Baked green apple, floral, spicy, mango, pineapple, honey, melon flavours.

Mission Hill Perpetua Chardonnay Osoyoos Vineyard Estate 2008, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley
Price      $35 winery direct
UPC       7765455555625
Score    91/100
Remarks              Good finesse in a fresher style.

William Fèvre Chablis Montmains Premier Cru Domaine 2008, Chablis, Burgundy, France
Price      $47
UPC       03443620079662
Score    90/100
Remarks              Creamy palate with green apple, oyster, lime, spicy flavours.

Penfolds Yattarna Bin 144 Chardonnay 2007, Tasmania, South Australia
Price      $110
UPC       12354072251
Score    92/100
Remarks              White Burgundy in Oz clothing.