Chardonnay For New Age

Merlot with a Cobb salad does not do it for me, nor does halibut with shiraz, yet everywhere I look consumers are drinking red wine with just about every food on the planet.

Personally, I am bucking the trend by drinking more sauvignon blanc and riesling than ever before. In fact, as autumn blows in, I am taking another look at a whole new generation of chardonnay.

That's right, I used the chardonnay word, but in the new- millennium sense not those overblown whites of the '80s and '90s that eventually spawned a sizable movement of wine drinkers that espouse the ABC -- "anything but chardonnay" -- philosophy.

Post 2000 chardonnay is deservedly garnering renewed respect for its crisp, fresh styling. Worldwide, the best new chardonnay vines have been pushed to the coolest and most marginal (in terms of weather) vineyard sites, where acidity and fruit are intensified long before the grape gets to the winery. With few exceptions, the grapes hang longer and in cooler conditions, delivering more intensely flavoured fruit and more vibrant, mouth-watering acidity.

Even the Europeans are getting in on the trend, although it's fair to say their wines are cleaner if not necessarily fruitier. I do like the latest Bouchard Aine & Fils Chardonnay 2003 with its green apple skin and chalky, pear, and honey aromas. The style is dry and elegant; its flavours a clean mix of pear, honey, mineral, green apple flavours with a slightly leesy finish. Great value and a pleasure to drink.

Chilean chardonnay is also experiencing some of the global aversion to just another chardonnay but you would be wrong if you summarily dismissed all versions coming out of the long thin country.

Don't miss the Casillero del Diablo Chardonnay 2004 from Casablanca, made by acclaimed winemaker Marcelo Papa. The nose is a delightful mix of green apple, citrus and light vanilla, lees while the flavours fresh, crisp, round and juicy, offer hints of green apple, vanilla, butter, citrus peel and mineral notes. It is a well-balanced, cool-style chardonnay that is perfect for pairing with a variety of foods. Love the price, too.

Adelaide Hills, Coonawarra and Clare Valley contribute fruit to an exciting new Australian listing, Bridgewater Mill Three Districts Chardonnay 2002. Best of all, there are no critters in sight on the label. Look for pineapple, citrus peel, caramel aromas with creamy lees, vanilla, mineral, green apple skin, and citrus rind flavours. Fine value and a new statement for inexpensive Oz chardonnay that reflects talented winemaking.

One of the top South African booths at last year's Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival was Vergelegen. Since then the Vergelegen Chardonnay 2004 has arrived from Stellenbosch with a decidedly Burgundian bent. Look for plenty of spicy vanilla and citrus butter with baked apple and nectarine flavours. Young and slightly disjointed, it should develop well in the bottle over the next year. Good value.

The Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay 2003 from the Alexander Valley in Sonoma County is simply fun to drink. The honey, butterscotch, pineapple and baked pear aromas melt into a citrus vanilla, creamy butter, honey melon flavoured palate. A ripe style chardonnay with structure for current drinking. Well done.

Our last pick today, Cuvaison Chardonnay 2003 from Carneros, Calif., is equally stylish. Love the spicy lees, creamy vanilla, baked apple aromas with a ripe, round, palate with good acidity. Intense baked apple, creamy lees, citrus butter, mango, anise and vanilla flavours. A touch warm but great intensity. Another good value.

POST MILLENIUM CHARDONNAY

Bouchard Aine & Fils Chardonnay 2003, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France
Price: $11.99
UPC: 3340180002645
Score: 86/100
Remarks: Elegant style with pear, honey, creamy mineral, green apple flavours.

Casillero del Diablo Chardonnay 2004, Valle de Casablanca, Chile
Price: $12.95
UPC: 7804320256900
Score: 87/100
Remarks: Cool-climate chardonnay made for food, at a great price.

Bridgewater Mill Three Districts Chardonnay 2002, South Australia
Price: $18.95
UPC: 098655000063
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Look for pineapple, citrus peel, caramel and creamy mineral flavours.

Vergelegen Chardonnay 2004, Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa
Price: $21.99
UPC: 6003706000170
Score: 89/100
Remarks: Impressive effort with a Burgundian-like edge. Good value.

Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay 2003, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California
Price: $39.99
UPC: 742651107195
Score: 92/100
Remarks: Citrus vanilla, mango, melon and honey flavours.

Cuvaison Chardonnay 2003, Carneros, Napa Valley, California
Price: $34.99
UPC: 082148019823
Score: 92/100
Remarks: Baked apple, creamy lees, citrus butter, mango and vanilla flavours.