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November 6 Over a decade ago I wrote that you could be forgiven for thinking Chablis was one of those old-fashioned white wines your parents drank, if only because it had taken a back seat to so many New World Chardonnays during the 1980s and 1990s.
November 6
Over a decade ago I wrote that you could be forgiven for thinking Chablis was one of those old-fashioned white wines your parents drank, if only because it had taken a back seat to so many New World Chardonnays during the 1980s and 1990s.
I can't do that today. Chablis is back as the world shifts closer to its dry, lean, sophisticated demeanour.
Even if it is made with chardonnay, it is an acquired taste, especially for fruit-loving New World drinkers. But there is little doubt Chablis' time has arrived, again.
In some ways there is nothing more traditional than Chablis and perhaps nothing more modern than the Stelvin screw cap closure. I'm happy to report both are flourishing inside the confines of a very traditional French appellation. Throw in a number of excellent vintages -- 2009, 2008, 2007, 2005 -- and you have the perfect stimulus to seek out a famous French appellation on the comeback trail.
The tiny district of Chablis is located in the northeast corner of France, between Champagne and Burgundy. Although it is often considered part of the entire 25,000-hectare Burgundy region, with just over 6,830 hectares of available vineyard land and four official appellations or classifications, Chablis has maintained its status as a unique producer of fine white wine.
Chablis' best is labelled Grand Cru and comes from seven revered hillside vineyards overlooking the town of Chablis. Together, Les Blanchots, Les Bouguerots, Les Clos, Les Grenouilles, Les Preuses, Les Valmur and Les Vaudésir total 103 hectares of outstanding chardonnay, the best of which will easily age a decade before reaching maturity.
Although Premier Cru Chablis seldom displays the power and weight of a Grand Cru, it is a wine of great finesse and structure. The best known sites include Fourchaume, Montée de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu, Montmains, Beauroy, Vaudevey and Vaillons. In all, Premier Cru vines are found on some 80 plots of land covering 775 hectares of prime Chablis vineyard.
Everyday or "classic" Chablis is produced from some 3,056 hectares of vines grown mainly on the Kimmeridgien limestone that comprises the major soil type in Chablis. Its fresh and lively style comes flecked with mineral, flinty characters that often improve within three years of bottling.
The final category seen on labels is Petit Chablis (652 hectares). It's wine that is mostly grown at higher altitudes on mixed limestone soils. Less intense, but often fragrant and fresh, they too are best enjoyed young.
As mentioned earlier the arrival of screw caps -- while initially rejected by most producers -- has been a boon to the new Chablis. So delicate in nature and so in touch with its terroir, any cork-related faults can easily deflate Chablis' fabulous but fragile flavours and structure. I for one welcome the migration (albeit slowly) to the screw cap because it means what is put in the bottle comes out of the bottle, which in the case of the subtle flavours of Chablis, is so crucial.
Another admirable aspect of Chablis is its propensity to accompany food with grace and flair. In a world full of fat, flabby whites, Chablis is the perfectly chiselled six-pack. Its prominent acidity and nuances of seaweed make it the classic oyster companion, although roasted chicken, Dover sole and grilled prawns will each make a similar impact on your tastebuds.
One last important note for local wine producers: This is a style of chardonnay we could own in B.C. Given Chablis' renowned international status, it is certainly worth contemplating with any of the following picks:
The 2008 vintage worked its magic on entry-level Chablis, super-charging its mineral, green apple, melon nose -- at least in that "reserved" French manner. Case in point: the William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux 2008. The palate is fresh and crisp with citrus, melon, red apple, mineral flavours and a crisp finish. It is the perfect halibut wine. All that is missing is a screw cap.
Classic Chablis would aptly describe the crisp, round, delicate palate of the Joseph Drouhin Chablis 2007 with its grassy, smoky, green apple, lime, light lees and seaweed flavours. Perfect with oysters or sole meunière or an East meets West pairing with geoduck.
The Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon 2008 site is rich in small oyster shell fossils and the wine is awash in delicate honey, ripe apple, pear, and lemon, lees, and nectarine flavours. Expect finesse and length with a juicy, creamy finish. Simply delicious.
The William Fèvre Chablis Les Lys Premier Cru Domaine 2008 grabs you with its bright juicy, creamy style. It has fine concentration and acidity with a mineral, grassy lime finish. Grilled prawns or steamed ginger chicken would be a fine match.
Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2008 is a delight to sip with its bright floral and light honey and seashore aromas combined with a subtle nectarine, nutty lees, lime, lemon, floral, vanilla flavours. Drink now with scallops or keep for three to seven years.
Enticing orange/lime, floral, creamy, mineral, smoky seashell flavours are the story of the intense William Fèvre Chablis Bougros Grand Cru Domaine 2008. At Fèvre, all grand crus are barrel-fermented and closed under cork. Try it with a fish belly hot pot; Chablis will never be the same.
William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux 2008, Chablis, Burgundy, France
Price: $29
UPC: 03443620067263
Score: 88/100
Remarks: The '08 vintage works its magic on this entry-level Chablis.
Joseph Drouhin Chablis 2007, Chablis, Burgundy, France
Price: $30
UPC: 0012086322013
Score: 88/100
Remarks: Delicate smoky, green apple, lime flavours. Fine with oysters or sole.
Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon 2008, Chablis, Burgundy, France
Price: $40
UPC: 089744423665
Score: 90/100
Remarks: The Vaillon site is rich in fossil oyster shells; the vines are 65 years old.
William Fèvre Chablis Les Lys Premier Cru Domaine 2008, Chablis, Burgundy, France
Price: $47
UPC: 03443620081931
Score: 90/100
Remarks: Fresh green apple, spicy, lime, mineral, seashell flavours.
Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2008, Chablis, Burgundy, France
Price: $67
UPC: 089744423672
Score: 95/100
Remarks: Long, juicy, ripe, creamy, chiselled cool fruit.
William Fèvre Chablis Bougros Grand Cru Domaine 2008, Chablis, Burgundy, France
Price: $77
UPC: 03443620079730
Score: 94/100
Remarks: Long, juicy, full finish with fine fruit and finesse.
